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Post by DnDPaladin on Apr 6, 2017 11:28:30 GMT
Wow its ridiculous how many people here read intentions as people yelling and crying.
Blue: i never said anywhere he couldn't in fact i mentionned often how i like his work. you know a little curiosity.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Apr 5, 2017 20:20:05 GMT
there is so much things i need to redo in my tuff. stairs and pools and just two of them.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Apr 5, 2017 20:18:19 GMT
wasn't saying to stay true tot he thing. was just wondering why the crane ? and no, all images that you see there is no crane. only stuff the characters added to support their ropes. the yawning portal is known for its pit. but its not known for helping people get down there. to the owner the pit is only there for show.
all that said, great work crane and all.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Apr 4, 2017 19:01:10 GMT
you just love aberration do you ?!!
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Post by DnDPaladin on Apr 4, 2017 18:57:23 GMT
well started ! that thing is gonna be gorgeous ! one question, though... why the crane ?
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 29, 2017 20:25:33 GMT
first off im not a troller, i hate trolls.
Sorry to hear your group melted. had a lot of those problems back in the day. i also stopped for about 10 years. i can tell you its agood thing, will replenish your creativity, your health, your friends. so good luck to you and your future gaming. 8)
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 23, 2017 6:26:43 GMT
OneThatWas im still waiting for you to tell me how much of a difference your 5ft to 3ft scale works with tiles that ends up using inches still in the end. if you play entirely theater of the mind something im sure you do, then yes scale has no real meaning because you dont have any scales to begin with. and yes 3ft works much better.
but im wondering how you actually do your 1 inch = 3ft on a tile ? go ahead answer me that. because all i see is the same problem, because basically that 1 inch could even go as low as 1ft and the tile would be the same size still.
so again im gonna say it this way since you dont seem to understand simple english... TILES IM TALKING ABOUT TILES !
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 20, 2017 16:19:42 GMT
OneThatWas and agaibn you completely missed my point. my point wasn't that 3ft isn't possible. my point was simply that you have to make your grid bigger because you can't reduce the size of the minis to fit that 3ft scale you want.
you may say niniture base of 1 inch is 3ft instead of 5ft all you want, that doesn'T reduce the size of your mini nor the size of their base which will still stay an inch base. so in order to make that 3ft scale you want you'd have to make your tiles bigger.
exemple... you have a 20 foot room. thats 4x4 squares. basically can hold 16 miniatures total with your reduced scale... you'd need to make the room a 21 foot room instead. and that would be a 7x7 tile. see, for your ratio to work you are almost adding twice the surface to accomodates the miniatures. which leads to the problem of table space instead of room sizes.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 19, 2017 19:57:40 GMT
OneThatWas, how the hell do you make 1 inch = 3 foot a thing in your miniatures when the round base is still 1 inch and that your chairs will still be needing 1 inch seats ? in the end to make this thing happens, you make the rooms bigger and thus ends up being on the same problem that lordmorbius said.
when it comes to scaling the only real thing you can do is to make the rooms bigger by reducing the ratio like OneThatWas said. but again your players will then need to give you more space at your table.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 19, 2017 19:52:49 GMT
they look awesome. as i said in my post with pictures the only thing i regret is having painted them two different colors.
looking at yours, painting them one single color is definitely the way to go.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 18, 2017 17:12:51 GMT
Video's unavailable
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 16, 2017 17:21:39 GMT
thats just the thing, most of the interior tiles you will be doing will have a grid on it because thats how floors were made. mostly. your players may just start counting tiles instead of playing gridless... i know mine does when i pull out the dungeon tiles. so i'd say dont go grid, but ready to draw them anyway !
the scale entirely depends on your wantings for realism. if you want realism, then follow the 28mm sizes and just go for it. but be aware that minis wont be able to sit on chairs for exemple. now if you go for working with. you might just throw away that 28mm scale and just design things as they look because you might want that chair to fit. then you might realise that chairs and tables are pretty much the same height. so really its all about how much of realism you want. because in the crafting game you can't have playable and realism together. they kinda are oppositite here.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 14, 2017 3:47:23 GMT
if you want instant stuff like scotty does then you have to water down the paint a bit. making it easier to "dye" the stuff. aside from that paint will make them stick together if you let it dry. so making flocking for later use is soemthing that will happen often. i made flocking like 3 times still have a full bottle of green flocking.
what i did...
- put saw dust in the bowl. - add paint unwatered (in hindsight i should have) - mix it up and just really really mix it up. - let it dry - use sieving to make kinds of flocking. - one bottle of fine flocking which i just sieved thru small sieve. - one big where i just left it as is.
thats it, got the job done really. i just think there is no right or wrong way to do this. sometimes you do want big clumps, other time you just want it fine.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 14, 2017 3:26:54 GMT
i only bought a random assorted beads sack for 3$ at the dollar store, beads for life really. separating them into types was more tiresome then making the jars. in hindsight the push pins weren't all that bad but it wasn't all that great either. if there is one thing i could of done differently though was to just paint them one single color.
also my varnish had bubbles in it which made it look weird, hence why i have to redo them now.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 12, 2017 21:02:59 GMT
Well i can see them and the share of them is there on 1drive so i dont understand. let's try that album thing... D&D Jars
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 12, 2017 20:58:27 GMT
Tilescape second vid.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 9, 2017 22:14:07 GMT
I don't prep my cork a all and it lasts (has lasted) 20+ years in the case of my oldest stuff. Floor cork is designed to be walked on and is far tougher than most other modelling materials. Cheap notice board cork will crumble however and I never use it. i'm talking about cheap stuff. like scotty did, i wetted it while cutting it, next to no crumbling at all. like scotty once i was ready to paint i first coated them with glue, two coats at it. they are solid and flat. no problem.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 9, 2017 22:11:40 GMT
sure i'll take some pics of them, though they have only one single coat so its not all that great. Yeah they aren't all that great thought of trying this a few months ago after i saw how someone made a lake with numerous layer of varnish. mine have bubbles in them too which sucks even more. heres the scatter jars And heres my alcohol bar shelf. i definitely need to try to make it numerous layer, once is cool from up close, but from afar its not all that great. but its cheap and allow me to use my beads.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 8, 2017 9:00:12 GMT
Blibdoolpoolp
also... very impressive work.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Mar 8, 2017 8:50:09 GMT
cheaper would be using varnish to simulate the glass of the jar. this is what i did, nowhere near perfect, but enough for gameplay.
beads and varnish makes it look like glass jars. like waters on lakes you could apply more then one coat and get the illusion of the glass jar itself.
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