guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Aug 24, 2017 7:06:17 GMT
Was in the Dollar Tree yesterday getting foam board and happened to find some modeling clay. Curious if anyone else has used this stuff for any dungeon crafting. Been experimenting with making a miniature using this clay. I threw a little bit in the oven to see if I could oven dry it. It melted in a minute. Will it air dry or am I stuck with a squishy dwarf? Air dry clay will remain pliable for quite some time ( basically infinity in an air tight container ) the thicker it is the longer it will take to dry.
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Aug 20, 2017 6:12:34 GMT
I'm not sure what ruleset you are using for difficult terrain. It looks very wobbly if a mini where to stand on the marker. But maybe they are meant to block the square completely, in wich case that is a non-issue. They look great either way! I just read up on 5e seems the "can't stop on difficult terrain" I something I've made up so I'll have to work around that. thanks for pointing it out.
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Aug 18, 2017 7:04:31 GMT
Needed an easy project to keep me motivated, so I figured why not an experiment; Close up In terrain for scale The 'rocks' are plaster shavings of various sizes glued to drawing paper with a washer underneath. They are then preshaded which doesn't seem to show very much though the paint even though I the layers I applied were thinned to the point of losing cohesion. On one of them I experimented with adding in layers of red and blue before a final grey - you can only really tell if if up close which you wont usually be. I though about adding in some grass but this way they fit more settings like dungeons or as a bove to mark where bits of the roof have caved in in an old church ruin. In person the markers are quite a bit darker then shown here but my phone crushes the blacks if I don't over expose slightly ( about 1 1/3 stops ) I may just break out the camera for some proper shots later. What do you think, any suggestions on improving them?
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Aug 11, 2017 12:38:03 GMT
So in transferring my hastily scribbled notes to my DM notebook I come across a note that says "square room, levers manipulate platfrom pillars obstruct"
well damn.. I half remember the puzzle It was something I read online ( though possibly a video ) were the players had to use a platform to get across a room filled fire that had 4 pillers in it. The platform ( though possibly the pillars ) could be controlled by some levers in the room before stepping onto the platform. ( so the players had to co-operate to cross the room )
Not a lot to go by I know but hopefully somebody else will have seen it as It been haunting me for hours now with my brain alternating between trying to remember the mechanics and where I saw the puzzle.
I could just do another puzzle but even If I do my brain will keep trying to remember this one.
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Aug 9, 2017 18:53:41 GMT
get some of that 'natural fiber' garden yarn ( looks like tiny brown ropes, no clue what they are meant for ) frazzle it and chop it into length fitting the model soak it in water down paint & dry on baking paper.
For gluing it down stick to white glue just maybe give the plastic a very light sanding first to give it something to stick to.
added bonus for sticking orange flicker leds behind the eye plastic - will be sure to give your players nightmares for years to come
edit: reason for that very specific fiber is that it gives a bristle sort of effect, like you see on large spiders
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Aug 9, 2017 7:53:35 GMT
I would but; "This poll has expired or has been locked."
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Aug 7, 2017 9:04:44 GMT
Wanted to finish the scene this weekend but my son discovered the Wrath of Ashardlon game I bought for the minis and insisted we play - turns out that in the context of a board game 4e isn't completely horrible. Trying to compensate for the lack of time with speed I ended up tripling my work load ( did the grid crooked, forgot the grid before base coating, forgot the card board spacer ) so I've some work yet to do before the last tiles ca be painted. As we say "hastværk er lastværk" - suppose the closest translation is "haste makes waste" but it looses som flavor because it's really "work fast and create extra work for your self".. though that doesn't quite roll of the tounge "spot five flaws" Did manage to come up with an idea for the caged faerie that may work, close ups will follow once I get some more time
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Aug 2, 2017 8:07:07 GMT
Decided to try and create a piece for a new groups first "boss" enounter, where the bad guy is using a ritual circle to drain a faerie of it's magic. ( Magic is 'zero sum' in this world so you cant create magic items with out taking that magic from else where - items, creatures, etc ) The circle it self went quite well - but ofcourse I decided to spruce it up; The potion is the 'recepticle' for where the drained magic goes - giving the players a choice of either returning the magic to the faire or keeping it them selves. The lecturn is a place holder it has a magnet in it's base that activates the reed switch beneath - which turns on the cuircit. It's meant to be replaced with a caged faire ( not a lot of those minies around, so I'll have to improvise ). The reed switch serves both as a fancy on/off switch and a trap - if any of the players ( most of my minis have a magnetic base for storage purposes ) step on the circle in their pursuit of the bad guy or when liberating the faerie they will activate the circle and be drained. *insert evil laughter here* The wiring. The metal circle is a magnet place above the reed switch The battery holder couldn't be trimmed down so I had to add a cardboard ring to use as a stand off, may have to some additional internal support. ( forgot to take a picture of that, was getting late ) A few extra images to better show the lighting effect - it's a bit difficult to capture The runes aren't lighted the way I had hoped but hopefully I can distribute and diffuse it a bit by filling them with witeglue or varnish. Light currently leak through the side, I'll need to add a stair step all round to cover that up and make up for the height difference I know some of you will be unhappy about the grid, but it's needed for play - just pretend it's really large flag stones
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on May 22, 2017 5:59:01 GMT
How's about neon green glow in the dark paint Feels a bit like cheating
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on May 19, 2017 5:54:41 GMT
Thanks for the feedback - I think I'll try and paint a few others to see if I can nail the effect. My son upon hearing that he would have to repaint part of the tile decided that it was done "It's because the wizzard is winning it doesn't glow so much" <3 but maybe if I show him how it could look I'll want to repaint
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on May 19, 2017 5:50:59 GMT
Has anyone figured out a way to stop the edges or entire foam board from curving? I recently tried some of these techniques, but it seems that every sheet has the same effect...large or small cuts. I've left one side with paper and the other paperless in the hopes it would give some rigidity, no luck. Only way I've found so far is to glue it to a rigi surface - or well cut less deep
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on May 18, 2017 7:20:59 GMT
I've stopped crafting for my self, but my son still enjoys it so I help him out with painting techniques when we will let me. This is supposed to be "a demonic underworld fire swamp" ( words you dont quite expect from a 6year old oO ) eating the floor after a wizards experiment gone wrong. All in all I think it turned out great, but the swamp water it self could be more "glowy" - I suspect the problem is that he started off with too dark a base colour, but does any one have any ideas about how at this point he can make it seem more like there are lights coming from the deep? We've tried brighter washes in select spots but it doesn't quite do the trick so I promised Id ask "the internet" - that's you lot It will get a coat of glossy varnish to make it look more like water and less like moss once the glow situation is dealt with
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on May 11, 2017 7:52:33 GMT
if they are made from the same foam as the larger 0.5mx0.5m play floor mats the it seems like you found a perfect modular dungeon tile base This type of foam if you score it gently and give it a lick with a heat gun ( or a few passes with a hair drier ) the cuts will open up making it very easy to do flag stone patterns. ( the heat also seals the foam so it wont drink as much paint )
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on May 2, 2017 7:51:53 GMT
Looks good so far, but how are the players going to see/manipulate their minis - do the walls break away or do you plan on lifting the walls away entirely? The next bit is nitpicking really, but it's a pet peeve of mine - feel free to ignore entirely; The wall struts are wrong, if your curious about how to do it correctly the search for "bindingsværk" on google image search or duckdockgo's equivalent
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Apr 27, 2017 9:52:20 GMT
Rust monster?
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Apr 11, 2017 12:52:03 GMT
You might as well be speaking Mandarin. 😳 It's jQuery - by comparison far more people will be able to understand Mandarin
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Apr 10, 2017 6:27:06 GMT
Those spell pages looks awsome, do you have a link for them?
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Mar 31, 2017 7:19:21 GMT
Basically, I am purchasing the kingdom death great hunter rogue male. Wow, that was a mouthful. Anyhow, I am converting him into my PC for a DnD campaign where I am playing a ranger who looks like the main character from the Witcher series. He uses 2 longswords. 1 will be in his hand, the other, will be in one of 2 scabbords on his back. The swords are thin, almost rapier or epee thin, unlike most fantasy swords, which are huge. I was thinking about making them out of plasticard, but any advice would be welcome. Long story short, 1 blade exposed, one in scabbord, 2 scabbords. Thanks First to temper my OCD: the epee and fencing foil are not swords and despite the name you dont fence with them, rather you play a silly game of "I touched your first tihigigglesnort" With that out of the way Your options are; 1) Get some thick copper wire and bang on it with a small happer ( cobblers happer or the like ) untill your happy with the shape 2) Grab a sword tooth pick and chop off a length of the blade that suits your chacacter*, the hilt is the wrong size so you will have to either omit it or scuplt one your self (mad props if you manage to pull off a italian style swept hilt ) *) Proper length for a rapier is the distance from you belly button to the ground when standing idle must match the length from the tip of the sword to the middle of the crossbar.
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Mar 16, 2017 6:30:59 GMT
Instead of the disposable wax paper stuff I suggest getting a silicone baking sheet ( conveniently they come with grids and circle diameters ) Also since nobody has mentioned it get a box of surgical gloves ( latex free if your allergic ) a lot of the stuff you going to work with stains and it also allows you to pick up the kids / answer the door, etc with out getting paint everywhere
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Mar 16, 2017 6:21:09 GMT
In regards to size, the minis used to be 25mm ( roughly 1 inch ), somewhere along the line somebody decided to use a 1 inch grid where 1 inch = 5 feet ( 1/60 scale ). This of course meant that your figures now stood a less than heroic 1.5m tall - thus enter the "heroic scale" miniatures of 28mm ( 1.68m ) & 30mm ( 1.8m ) which is a bit closer to the modern day norm ( though personally I'd be a 33mm minature ). These sligthly larger figures also allows for the sculptor to work in more detail.
As for grid or nongrid - if your players enjoy grid based then do it with a grid, if not the dont. I personally like the look better without but, both I and my players enjoy the added tactical element that grids offers - not to mention the speed up ( it's alot easier planning your actions out of turn by counting squares rather than having to measure every wich way to make sure you can heal party member X with out badguy Y being able to reach you in the same turn )
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