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Post by margaret on Feb 21, 2016 17:14:13 GMT
Hmm... Haven't been able to see any of the pictures posted on this thread, although I have checked several times. Looks like everyone else can see them, though.
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Post by margaret on Feb 21, 2016 4:57:37 GMT
According to the instructor for the course I just took in order to be able to use the 3D printer at my local library, if the change in slope is gradual enough, an outward slope can be created without supports. Think of piping a line of icing that sticks out just a little from the previous line - every line just a smidgeon farther out.
Those crystals look to my eye as though they have too much slope for that, but apparently my eye is wrong.
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Post by margaret on Feb 20, 2016 3:46:17 GMT
Wow, I take a minute to look around at paint schemes and formulate a comment and you have already posted more pics!
I personally favor a lighter granite color - that's what I am going to use. But the dark stone looks good, too, and you have a lot invested in your darker pieces. If you really prefer the lighter stone, maybe just make enough of the darker for an occasional dark dungeon - and for whatever you need for Frostgrave - and make the rest in the lighter paint scheme. A single dungeon can accommodate some differences if it is big enough. Maybe one part is older than the rest and the original quarry gave out so the builders had to get different stone for the newer part.
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Post by margaret on Feb 20, 2016 3:38:15 GMT
Regarding painting are, I think the genie looks good as is. But if you want to try something different next time, maybe a white base coat with a blue wash thin enough to just go in the deepest lines? I don't have anything suitable to test that on, but it seems to me it would be the airiest you could get with a non-translucent piece. I took a quick look around on the Internet, but couldn't find any air elementals done that way, so maybe it doesn't work. The closest is the air elemental at swordcoastjunkie.blogspot.com/2015/09/miniature-moment-elementals-and.html. And that's either a light gray wash over a white base or white dry-brushing over a light gray base coat
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Post by margaret on Feb 20, 2016 3:07:08 GMT
I'd go for an elaborate floor like Grym's suggestion, rather than pews. Pews are a fairly modern addition to worshipping and I don't think of priests of an evil god as being interested in providing any ease to the congregation. The focus should be on the central location of the ceremonies. Do you have some kind of elaborate wall décor planned for behind the altar?
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Post by margaret on Feb 20, 2016 2:58:58 GMT
Gorgeous paint job - the mouth! and all that detail on the armour.
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Post by margaret on Feb 19, 2016 19:42:32 GMT
Just beautiful!
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Post by margaret on Feb 18, 2016 3:41:13 GMT
Keep in mind that Oomoo has a limited shelf life according to its specs. Particularly once you open it to use it. Some folks say 6 months max, some have had it last longer - may depend on how long it sat on the shelf in the store before it was purchased. I think I will try it once, but I am going to figure out enough things to make molds of first so I can try to use it all up in one go. And some users have had it go bad in less than 6 months.
Wilmanric, thanks for the tips on building a Lego frame for the mold and measuring the volume needed!
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Post by margaret on Feb 16, 2016 4:12:26 GMT
It looks like a plasticine-type clay. Plasticine can't be hardened. You could use it to sculpt simpler props for practice in sculpting, use the props to make molds, and make cast plaster or hot glue or air-dry clay stuff from the molds. Not human or humanoid miniatures, though.
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Post by margaret on Feb 15, 2016 20:14:06 GMT
For mouldmaking, I recommend using the silicone, corn starch and acrylic method that @rouseau introduced. I'll try and find that thanks. EDIT: Found the links to all your molding stuff -- awesome! Can I buy any silicone in those big calking-sized tubes? There are numerous brands and each has brand has numerous product variations of it. Which type do I buy? I poked around the Internet. looking for tutorials on the silicone/cornstarch mold method. It is IMPORTANT that you get the kind of silicone caulk that smells like vinegar [acetic acid], not the newer "Silicone II" type. All the commenters said the second type doesn't work. Any brand of the right type should be OK.
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Post by margaret on Feb 15, 2016 17:02:01 GMT
margaret , I use peel-n-stick floor tiles ($0.39/square foot tile, at Menards) as a base for my 2D dungeon tiles. I peel off the backing, lay down my printed tiles (regular paper, not card stock) onto the tiles, as efficiently as possible. Smooth them out, then cut them with utility scissors. The floor tiles are inexpensive, have plenty of heft, and they are easily cut to shape. Forgot to mention, I first cover the dungeon print outs with clear Contact Paper (kitchen shelf liner; matte, clear vinyl, peel-n-stick; available at Wal-Mart, in the kitchen supply area), to make them durable. The weight does add up, as the pieces stack up, but they are easy to use, durable, and they look great, IMO. Just some food for thought. Here is a link to my blog (project #4, 1/2 of the way down the page) where I discuss it in more detail. I originally printed using an inkjet, on 110# card stock. My laser printer will only print on 20# paper, so that is why I switched -- no issues using 20# paper, in place of card stock. Cheers! Thanks for the suggestions and the link. I was thinking of using clear matte spray , but I will try the contact paper method, too. I always have some of the clear stuff around due to many years of making things for kids. I can see that the vinyl tiles would give a nice heft to the modular pieces on the board, but I think I will stick with cardboard at first. Lighter boxes of stuff are easier for me to deal with! Might try the vinyl tiles, too, if I decide to make more.
The vinyl tiles might be really good for basing some of the scene dressing stuff so it doesn't blow away as easily. Have to give that some thought.
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Post by margaret on Feb 15, 2016 8:38:08 GMT
They certainly all work well together. You are really cranking this stuff out! And it all looks great...
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Post by margaret on Feb 15, 2016 8:26:08 GMT
I vote for calling it good and moving on. Your magic circles are well able to arouse envy without adding runes!
Besides, it's more of a surprise for the players if there aren't runes saying "Hey! I'm special!"
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Post by margaret on Feb 15, 2016 8:22:46 GMT
Your new siege tower certainly looks a lot sturdier than the old! I think I will make modular tiles from printed dungeon floors, if I can manage to scale up a pdf to the right size for doing Wyloch's version. So it's helpful to see other folks working with the printed material.
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Post by margaret on Feb 14, 2016 23:46:29 GMT
Nice take on the elementals. I particularly like the air elemental with the white twist tie armature. Air elementals seem to be the hardest to do successfully.
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Post by margaret on Feb 14, 2016 7:53:15 GMT
Posted this on the wrong thread, I guess, so re-posting here.
I hate to encourage taking pennies out of circulation, because the government already wants to... But the 1-inch fender washers I got to make flat monster tokens with are $8.81 per hundred from Home Depot now - plus whatever tax your area adds. So 4 pennies are cheaper unless you can find washers in bulk for much, much less. A penny-sized washer would be about 3/4 inch in diameter and would still be well over a cent in price.
The washers I use are heavier than a penny, but I can't get to a scale accurate enough for a penny's weight at the moment to get you an actual weight.
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Post by margaret on Feb 14, 2016 7:49:56 GMT
I hate to encourage taking pennies out of circulation, because the government already wants to... But the 1-inch fender washers I got to make flat monster tokens with are $8.81 per hundred from Home Depot now - plus whatever tax your area adds. So 4 pennies are cheaper unless you can find washers in bulk for much, much less. A penny-sized washer would be about 3/4 inch in diameter and would still be well over a cent in price.
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Post by margaret on Feb 14, 2016 2:48:00 GMT
I've done that for low shelves in the past. But everywhere I have lived as an adult requires shelves that are fastened to the uprights and everything head-height or higher tied to the walls. =(
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Post by margaret on Feb 13, 2016 16:33:12 GMT
Reading, medieval re-creation, gardening, bird-watching, sewing, knitting, other textile projects, trying recipes from around the world, playing one MMORPG regularly, surfing the Internet for projects for my grandkids and info that supports my other hobbies, and planning and implementing a variety of projects for the grandkids, which now includes making stuff to enhance the D&D 5 games I am running 3 or 4 times a year for them.
Most of these hobbies, and their accumulated libraries, take up storage space. So I am having to choose my RPG terrain and accessory projects carefully, with an eye to what's most effective and needs the least storage space.
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Post by margaret on Feb 12, 2016 22:02:18 GMT
Looks amazing, especially for a 1-hour learning project! I expect it would take me much longer though. It sounds from your other posts that you have a lot more background in drawing / designing stuff on the computer than I do.
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