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Post by margaret on Mar 11, 2016 20:55:05 GMT
Love it!
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Post by margaret on Mar 11, 2016 1:24:16 GMT
Select and copy the URL that pepebe provided in the third post and paste it into your browser. Then you can see it
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Hi All
Mar 10, 2016 22:10:06 GMT
Post by margaret on Mar 10, 2016 22:10:06 GMT
arrowknee,
Note that some of the builds, particularly the tiles, are made with double-layer corrugated cardboard, the kind that appliance boxes are made out of. This is for strength and to help prevent warping when it's wet with paint or glue.
Tons of info in this forum and many links to other resources
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Post by margaret on Mar 10, 2016 18:26:56 GMT
Here's some tutorials.
www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/12 cipher-studios.com/2011/12/hobbyist-tactics-episode-2-the-eyes/ www.internetmodeler.com/2000/march/figures/figure_painting.htm forum.rpg.net/archive/index.php/t-739149.html
I have a list of tips from another tutorial or from several lists of tips [can't find the original on line at the moment]: Paint them first. Use a #0 brush or smaller for the white and iris. Tiny brushes dry out faster, though. But use the #0 when painting the face around the eye to avoid painting over it.
Paint the eye socket with your dark flesh shading color
Paint the eyeball / socket with white. Slightly thin paint so it flows just a bit. Use a #0 brush or smaller.
Using black, either add a dot for each iris or paint a vertical line for each iris. Again using a #0 brush or smaller.
The irises should be painted a little closer to the center of the face rather than centered in the eye socket. If centered in the eye socket, the figure will look wall-eyed.
If using the line method, you then add more vertical strokes on whichever side of the initial line you need in order to keep the irises properly positioned.
Anywhere the paint goes outside the socket, which is particularly likely with the line method, will be covered up next, using the dark flesh shading color.
You can also use a Pigma Micron pen for the iris.
If I can find the source(s) of these tips, I will post it later
And lots of skin tone options at this web site: www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com/miniature_painting_welcome.html
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Post by margaret on Mar 10, 2016 18:07:36 GMT
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Post by margaret on Mar 10, 2016 4:27:07 GMT
do you know anyone who has canaries? or maybe parakeets? They might shed a feather that would work. a secondary wing feather from a canary would probably be OK. I think the primaries are too big.
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Post by margaret on Mar 8, 2016 16:36:50 GMT
Candlesticks??? NO NO! Not in a library or scriptorium. Magic globe lamps like those Curufin linked to are the way to go. Well, maybe candles if all of your "books" are engraved on stone slabs or clay tablets. That's a nice reading desk you made. If you ever want variations, the author of this site has tracked down some cool ones: medievalbooks.nl/2014/10/10/medieval-desktops/
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Post by margaret on Mar 7, 2016 20:20:59 GMT
OK, I haven't even started on my clip-ons for 1/4-inch walls and you are adding more cool stuff!
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Post by margaret on Mar 7, 2016 20:08:28 GMT
Thanks for posting this - knowing what won't work is useful, too.
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Post by margaret on Mar 7, 2016 20:06:38 GMT
Nice find!
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Post by margaret on Mar 7, 2016 14:46:47 GMT
Nice use of scrolls for eyes! Love it!
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Post by margaret on Mar 6, 2016 15:11:00 GMT
Looks good enough to eat!
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Post by margaret on Mar 6, 2016 5:38:07 GMT
I think your current shelves work fine for the clay tablets. Gives the reader some room to shift them in and out without chipping them.
And they look great!
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Post by margaret on Mar 6, 2016 5:31:57 GMT
The JoAnn's near me only carries balsa wood. Michael's carries bass wood, but they don't seem to re-stock it very often, so it's chance if they have what I want. HobbyTown [different store from Hobby Lobby] carries both balsa and bass wood and I was able to get the 1/4 x 1/4 sticks there a couple of weeks ago
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Post by margaret on Mar 6, 2016 0:45:20 GMT
I am guessing it's probably a human scapula, not a sheep scapula, but at the size you would be printing, who cares about the difference. Going to be pretty small, even though you will probably want it oversized in order to be able to write any interesting symbols on it. Can you print that small on your printer and have it come out well?
You would want to print in a way that keeps the flattest side pretty flat, and I can't see that side in the image on Thingiverse [the left side]
I think you should be able to model a small scapula in Sculpey. Just bake it for the minimum time for a 1/4-inch thick item, even if it's thinner. Probably easier than trying to manage the shape in TP papier mache.
Here's a webpage with more info on baking polymer clays, although it doesn't address the question of extra thin or tiny items.
thebluebottletree.com/bake-polymer-clay-how-tips-tricks/
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Post by margaret on Mar 5, 2016 16:18:55 GMT
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Post by margaret on Mar 5, 2016 16:10:41 GMT
Probably won't find any of librarians entombed in a library floor, But if you google "tombstone in church floor", you will find a wide variety
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Post by margaret on Mar 5, 2016 5:34:57 GMT
Clay and even bone, maybe, but I would forgo the stone. Only part of the Rosetta stone survived, but that one part weighs about 1680 pounds [760 kilos]. Not exactly light reading!
Or - now here's a thought for a fast library maze for Frostgrave - grab that rolling pin that Tauster was using and make clay sections to use as slabs for an entire library of engraved stone slabs! Then you can make a maze of stone walls
I like your bookshelves and scroll shelves better, though
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Post by margaret on Mar 5, 2016 5:22:23 GMT
Here's a website with some info on making making sculpting tools yourself from wire and polymer clay: www.elvenwork.com/tips.htmlIt also has a basic info on finishing techniques And another with a LOT of info on making wire-and-foil armatures hubpages.com/art/armatures
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Post by margaret on Mar 5, 2016 5:04:43 GMT
Don't refrigerate it. You don't even really have to wrap it in plastic as long as you have it covered somehow - it should be stored in the dark, that is, in a box or a non-transparent container. I always wrap mine in plastic wrap or put it in a zip-closure bag first though. I don't want it getting on anything accidently. It doesn't really air-dry, that's the whole point of it - that it can be sculpted and re-sculpted until you heat it. If you leave it sitting out, the surface will probably dry some, but you won't have a hardened item. Polymer clays can really stick to your work surface, so you should put foil over your usual surface if you don't have some kind of mat reserved for polymer clay work. I have 2 of those super-thin "cutting board" plastic sheets that I use for working with Sculpey. I get a package of 2 at the Dollar Store. They are about 13 3/4 inches by 11 inches. When they get really badly hacked up [even a blunt dinner knife can scratch them], they are easily and cheaply replaced. But they can last a long time if you don't try using them as a base for cutting cardboard with a craft knife. Do NOT do that, unless you want an Xacto knife gouge in your tabletop. A lot of the polymer clay websites are focused on jewelry, which means a lot of their tips aren't directly relevant to what you will probably be doing. And some are focused on sculpting with the other types of Sculpey. Some useful websites: www.bfranklincrafts.com/TipsTechniques/TipsTechniquesSculpey.htmlwww.crafts-for-all-seasons.com/working-with-polymer-clay.htmlwww.earthguild.com/products/riff/rpolymer.htm
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