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Post by jennifer on Feb 8, 2016 2:00:11 GMT
EDIT: Updated the subject -- like the silly name? Don't know if this has been done before, but I had some leftover cork tiles. Cut four 7/8 x 7/8 inch cork tiles with paper cutter (getting nice desired rough edges). Adhered these cork tiles to a 2 x 2 inch medium weight chipboard tile (which I cut with a paper cutter) with 3M spray adhesive. Adhered the medium weight chipboard to craft store rubbery foam sheet (don't know what you call it) for some grip -- adhered with 3M spray again. Here it is painted: Borrowed this idea from Wyloch : give it some weight with 4 pennies glue gunned on bottom, but countersunk into the grippy rubbery foam. (I'll recess more nicely in the future with a die.. this was just for concept--used a pocket knife to cut out the circle.) They are nice and weight and grippy.. dont' slide around on table all that easily at all. And the pennies don't touch the table or whatever surface it is on. I might use these with modular toilet paper mache walls .. ala 2.5D next. They are fairly easy to make. Or I might just print out openforge tiles like Meph and paint them instead But I still may use the foam/penny trick on the bottom.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 8, 2016 4:39:58 GMT
Here is a set of OpenCork (lol) pieces: 1) several 2 x 2 tiles 2) one 2.5" x 2 wall tile. 3) 1/2" x 2" inch extender (for use with 2.5" x 2 wall tile) Here is a configuration: Here is a closeup of the wall: These are pretty cheap to make; with a Michael's 40% off coupon, a set of four 12x12" cork tiles is only $5.99. They are very easy to make, using mostly paper cutter in my case, and some scissor work too. Let me know what ya think.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 8, 2016 4:50:13 GMT
Although I may use 1/2" thick rigid insulation for the walls -- hand etched.
Or..
I may use a 3D printed 1/2" thick wall
Or..
I may make them toilet paper mache walls.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Feb 8, 2016 8:02:22 GMT
those are nice tiles !
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Post by jennifer on Feb 8, 2016 8:37:29 GMT
Thanks DnDPaladin, they are so easy to make too! Really fast. I've been adhering the cork and rubbery foamy stuff to the chipboard with avery permanent glue and it's been fine (save some money vs 3M adhesive spray). For glueing cork to cork (for the walls) I think I'll start using white glue or glue gun -- avery not good enough for that.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 8, 2016 8:56:20 GMT
I'm getting a 3D printer like curufin and meph have in a few days -- ordered it a couple days ago.
When I get it, I am going to print out a few OpenForge tiles, corner tiles & wall tiles. (Really impressed with them and there are so many available.)
Once I get a few of those printed, I'll modify my procedure for making these "OpenCork" tiles so they will be perfectly usuable with all the readily available OpenForge tiles. Once I get all that sorted out, I'll share with everyone else here in this thread.
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 8, 2016 16:26:16 GMT
My experience has been that when I put out detailed terrain, the game becomes more of a miniatures game, rather than an RPG game... People become engrossed with the mini's as well as the terrain, and this causes them to slow down, being distracted from the moving story. When I am playing a mini's game, this is desirable; when I am running my RPG, this is usually a very bad thing, as the players get tunnel vision, and the story comes to a pointless halt.
For this reason, I still use vinyl grid maps with water-based pens, for most of my RPG sessions; it is also much faster to use -- no build time other than drawing the walls in.
Having said that, I only make modular terrain, similar to 2.5D Next. It is fast to use, easy to set up, and it is completely re-usable, over, and over, and... What type is best to use depends upon your gaming style. Cheers!
EDIT: Oops! Put this in the wrong thread... Intended it for the thread where someone was asking which style of terrain was best. Apologies.
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Post by birdskull on Feb 8, 2016 17:04:52 GMT
My players love the minis and terrain, but it doesn't detract anything from the game any more. Did a little the first few games, but now it just adds to the game. When we started playing D&D again a year ago after not playing for 12-13 years, we used laminated sheets of gridpaper. That became a minis game. The grid bogs down things in my experience. Now we use measuring sticks, and things are getting real fluent.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 8, 2016 17:54:49 GMT
Added a 2.5 x 2.5 corner wall tile to the OpenCork (lol) System! EDIT: First brick wall (the one to the right) wasn't gappy enough, second one (the corner one) is a bit too gappy (on the top row at least).. I'll perfect it soon I might fill with playsand and white glue as a type of mortar what do you think?
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Post by skunkape on Feb 8, 2016 18:14:26 GMT
Nice idea for tiles, jennifer! Thanks for sharing!
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Post by Wyloch on Feb 8, 2016 18:15:25 GMT
.........I am really excited for the future of this thread.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 8, 2016 20:33:59 GMT
Wow thumbs up from The Wyloch! Think I"m gonna faint! Giggle!
I really love your tiles and I think your videos are awesome and funny (e.g. hot glue & beer -- LOL!)
The OpenForge stuff seems really hot now, can't wait to print out a few pieces and makes these cork ones compatible. My goal is to make them compatible with everything if possible.
I've been thinking about upscaling them to the size you use though.. to support 30mm bases, because although I am brand new to miniature painting, it seems like many of the 25mm reaper minis need 30mm base to fit.. don't quite understand this to be honest. I am thinking about making them 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 like you do and then when I print the openforge, I'll print them scaled up to be 2 1/4 by 2 1/4.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 8, 2016 23:26:00 GMT
I think I like the height of the walls. One thing that is nice about them is a regular 2 x 2 tile can rest inside the wall tile, with the top of it being flush with the top of the wall, for compact storage What are the height of the DMG walls -- i.e. just wondering if the modular wall sections will work well with this set of cork tiles.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 9, 2016 4:50:43 GMT
Messing around with toilet paper mache arched brick door frame. After it dries for a few days, I'll pop out the foam form and hot glue anything together that doesn't stay together. It'll be much easier to just use the functioning OpenForge door tile as a drop in .. just playing around though until I get my printer.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Feb 9, 2016 9:41:20 GMT
DMG tiles are, with walls, two times double corrugation cardboard. since it depends heavily on the cardboard itself, some are skewed some are mint some are over used. i'd say its somewhere between half an inch to a full inch.
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Post by michka on Feb 10, 2016 0:21:02 GMT
These are gorgeous! That material is perfect for making tiles. Looking forward to seeing even more of these.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 10, 2016 0:27:40 GMT
These are gorgeous! That material is perfect for making tiles. Looking forward to seeing even more of these. Yes, thanks to DM Scotty, else I would of never know to use cork for tiles.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 10, 2016 3:45:28 GMT
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Matt
Tool Gatherer
Posts: 76
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Post by Matt on Feb 10, 2016 6:47:09 GMT
That turn out great. How strong is that archway? It looks like it's fragile. Is that just an illusion of the angle of the picture?
Cork tiles are by far my favorite building material. I'm experimenting with cardboard as it's super cheap (free, really) but cork tiles from the dollar store or those placemats from Ikea are amazing to work with.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 10, 2016 7:19:37 GMT
That turn out great. How strong is that archway? It looks like it's fragile. Is that just an illusion of the angle of the picture? Cork tiles are by far my favorite building material. I'm experimenting with cardboard as it's super cheap (free, really) but cork tiles from the dollar store or those placemats from Ikea are amazing to work with. I'll tell you how fragile it is after I let the paper mache dry fully along with the white glue and after I super glue it here and there And then maybe reinforce with 50/50 scenic cement Although I think I am gonna print my doors on my 3D printer I'm getting tomorrow. ($300 printer)
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