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Post by sgtslag on Mar 11, 2017 15:15:04 GMT
I ran my campaign based in a cty for over 6 years. Could have made fantastic use out of such a map if I'd had known how to make one. Players are moving away from it now, so no point anymore. Too bad. To have had such a map would have added so much to our games... Unless they moved on and we no longer needed it. I play an open, free style, they go where they choose, when they choose to. It would be a huge gamble to make such a model, but it would be so much fun... Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Mar 11, 2017 14:55:18 GMT
"ROUS's?... I don't believe they really exist."
"Rahhhrrr!!!"
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Post by sgtslag on Mar 8, 2017 15:11:38 GMT
I did something similar, only m-u-c-h simpler... I took a 2D drawing of a Hobgoblin guard tower, built atop a cut-off tree, and made around a dozen 3D models based on the drawing. I left off the roofs, however, as they would be too much hassle in use, trying to insert mini's beneath them. It was quite fun, and compared to your project, ultra s-i-m-p-l-e. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Mar 7, 2017 19:25:22 GMT
Wow! Impressive! Hope it sees a lot of table time. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Mar 3, 2017 13:54:42 GMT
Agreed, great use of the bases! I am thinking of using my drawer full of them, myself (I've used a very great number of MK figures to fill out various fantasy armies for my 2e BattleSystem games). Have you tried putting a piece of paper on the underside, to cover the window? That would mask their true origin. I find the window visually distracting, which is why I've never used them for anything... Until now. I love the use of them as a torch/lantern holder. Brilliant idea! Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 28, 2017 21:36:44 GMT
Nail art brushes link opens a new tab with this page in it...
The Lolth spider symbol is perfect. Looks like what I remember from the TSR Q1 module, from the early 1980's! Quite large, though. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 25, 2017 22:59:15 GMT
Your water is rather simple, but surprisingly effective! Love it! I am genuinely impressed with how good it works: as a crafter, I see how easily it was done, but it is sooo good at evoking water in the viewer's mind... I really did not expect it to be so effective. The whole thing is quite impressive. The statues are VERY good, and very accurate to the image which inspired them. Love it! Thank you for sharing. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 25, 2017 22:52:46 GMT
A shambling "bush" may not inspire fear, but when said bush begins to devour one of your friends before your very eyes... Let the screaming begin!!! I've had such experiences gaming: something innocuous, perhaps even humorous, turns suddenly, unexpectedly, into a heart-wrenching, terrifying, horrific situation. [Ever play Call of Cthulhu (CoC)?...]
I've always seen the Shambling Mound portrayed with eyes, and a mouth, until this thread. I could see going either way. The formless, shambling bush concept has a CoC vibe to it, which could be quite fun to surprise a group of players with! Thanks, Gentlefolk, for the discussion on whether or not to build them with 'eyes', and a 'mouth'. I like both, but the CoC option is really appealing to me, and my sick, demented, DM's Black Heart... Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 25, 2017 20:15:22 GMT
I like the concept. What about cutting the pop tab off, at the base of the torch? Then you would just have that bottom portion where the base of the torch is inserted into it? If you then angle the torch outwards, it will keep it away from the wall itself, without all of the extra torch-mount materials (metal) behind the torch. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 25, 2017 19:58:19 GMT
The game comes with a total of 252 figures, including: 35 Footmen (four different races), 12 Archers, 12 Cavalry, and 4 Siege Engines of various types (varies by race, but it appears each race has only one type of Siege Engine -- see photo's below). That works out to be $0.16 per figure... They even include a manual battering ram: three men holding a massive rod to batter doors down with, in the blue army. The four siege engines are: green Ballista; blue Battering Ram; orange Catapult; and, purple Trebuchet. Here is the downside: they are 22mm tall, from base to top of head. This means they are slightly smaller than 1/72 scale figures. The upside, is that depending upon your take on Elves, they could be perfectly sized for this race. According to 1e generally accepted scale, back the 1980's, Humans averaged 6 feet tall, and their figures were 25mm tall. Elves, on the other hand, were shorter, averaging 4-5 feet tall. So a humanoid figure standing 22mm tall, would be just about right for an Elf, next to a 25mm tall Human. On the other hand, if you went with these figures as your standard Human, you would have 236 of them, for only $0.16 per figure! And, of course, you would have 16 Siege Engines, to boot, all for the same price... This may/may not be a good deal, but I thought I'd share it anyway, in case someone finds it useful. The figures are incredibly low priced -- this is the lowest per-figure price I think I've even seen, since I started collecting mini's, back around 1981! This game is sold at most toy departments of retail box stores like Target, Shopko, Wal-Mart, etc., in the USA; don't know about Europe, sorry. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 25, 2017 16:29:55 GMT
Great video demonstrating the foamcore techniques. I took a different path using 2-3 mm thick cardboard several months ago. I get 2' x 4' pieces at the framing supply area of craft stores for around $8-$10. It is strong, and easy to cut with a utility scissors; razor blades work, as well, but they are much harder on the hands, and the scissors are just easier to use, IMO. I print my paper buildings, and structures, on regular 20# paper, on a color laser printer. The paper is less expensive, and easier on my printer's guts, than 110# card stock (I used to repair laser printers -- the paper is far kinder to the fuser assembly and the paper output assembly, than card stock, so they will last much longer; neither assembly is cheap to replace). I use a glue stick to attach the paper skins to the cardboard, pressing it down all over, carefully, to ensure a good bond. I have also used wooden square rods, as you used, to reinforce the corners on castle towers, and wall sections. I use wood glue to bond them inside the corners, on each corner. The towers are quite strong afterwards, and also quite durable. I also use Hot Glue, where I can, to reinforce joins that won't be seen. I made two Fat Dragon Games Siege Towers using the 3 mm thick cardboard. I had to paint the edges of it, but I was able to blend it in rather well. They, too, are quite strong. This technique requires some custom work on the corners, and seams, as you cannot use the glue tabs employed in card stock construction techniques. In the end, though, it works surprisingly well. The structures are very strong, and very durable. They are also heavier than mere card stock builds. This helps quite a bit, on the tabletop. They no longer are subject to the slightest breezes which can send them flying. I am really looking forward to putting on some 2e BattleSystem games using the castle pieces as a city wall. I have a Lich commanding a massive Undead army attacking the living within the city. I have several sets of fantasy medieval buildings to create the city's interior beyond the walls and towers. The two Siege Towers will be critical in the assault. It should be a table full of eye candy models for all to enjoy. It should also be a blast of a game as the Lich has some aerial units which will fly over the wall, to land and attack the citizens hiding within the city! The Humans don't know about that. They will have to take soldiers from the walls to defend the helpless citizens, leaving the walls much weaker, much easier for the Lich's army to crawl over... Need to schedule that game sooner, rather than later. I have all of the models done that I need for it. Mwah-hah-hah!!!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 24, 2017 16:38:23 GMT
They are about the size of a 1e Gnome. Could be civilians in a Gnome community. Very nice. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 23, 2017 14:13:24 GMT
+2/+3/+?... That is superb, both the tiles, and the storage box. Very impressive for your first crafting project! Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 23, 2017 14:11:12 GMT
Impressive technique, and impressive results (very nice painting...)! Thanks for sharing! Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 22, 2017 3:39:51 GMT
I game around once every 2-3 months, unfortunately. My group consists of four players, currently. I've run with five, but coordinating schedules is quite difficult. My ideal group size, is only four. The fifth player causes me difficulty in keeping everyone involved as much as we all would like. I would love to game once per month, but getting everyone's schedule to align, is quite difficult. My storylines require all of the PC's to be present, nearly every session, and with only four players...
I've had to take breaks, in the past, from gaming. My style is 90% ad-lib, off the cuff. I never know where the players will take the game. It is often as surprising for me, as it is for them, which direction the story goes. My sessions do not typically require a tremendous amount of preparation, but they take a toll on me, as I am, 'on edge', nearly the entire session -- I am mentally drained after our 4-6 hour sessions.
It seemed like my creative players pulled the creativity out of me, as we gamed. I ran out of ideas on where to take things, how to take their NPC relations in new, exciting, and challenging directions. I needed time off to recharge my creativity, to come up with new ideas, and new directions to take the game. I can understand needing a break, without a busy job schedule, raising young children (mine are all grown), a wife, a home to maintain, etc...
Gaming every Sunday? Wow! I could handle that for only a month, at most, before I put the brakes on: I have too many other demands upon my time, some fun, some chores, but ignoring them would lead to disaster (motorcycle season is very close, we live to tour on two wheels...). I would cheerfully invite my players to begin DM'ing, to fill the void created by my reduced schedule -- it is a solid investment (see below).
I enjoy playing as well as DM'ing. Currently, I game in one of my player's games. He is learning to DM, having spent decades as a player. Great DM's are created by players challenging them, stretching them, over long periods of time (I sucked for a lot of the early years...). It is an investment in him, to help him develop as a DM. At times, it is frustrating to watch him make mistakes I learned from decades ago. Slowly, the investment is returning a yield. It also is educational for me, as a DM: I am seeing things from the players' perspectives, and it helps me to be a better DM. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 20, 2017 17:10:59 GMT
Many crystal structures tend to be delicate. I've never heard of anyone using actual crystals for terrain. I had high hopes, however. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 20, 2017 3:45:14 GMT
Both are quite good. Thank you both, for the inspiration. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 17, 2017 21:48:16 GMT
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 17, 2017 14:03:41 GMT
I'd suggest either a white base coat, or gray. Then apply the neon color. After that, apply a black wash/The Dip/Magic Wash, to fill in the recesses. Black bombing is tolerable to a point, but in situations like this, you need to reverse course, and start with a white/gray base coat, and use a black wash of some sort. It works better, as it is easier to achieve brighter colors while still having the recesses black.
If you really want the higher areas to be less darkened by the wash, apply a coat of clear Klear/Future/acrylic floor shine. This will create a smooth surface across the figure/terrain piece, which will allow the wash to more easily flow over the surface, only darkening the recesses. Acrylic paint, when dry, has a microscopically rough surface, which catches more wash, causing the whole surface to darken. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 17, 2017 13:56:58 GMT
The flagstone mold is tempting, but I prefer 2D printouts: faster, easier, less expensive with a color laser printer. Thanks for sharing, though. I'm sure others will find it useful. I would recommend Polyforma (Sculpey) Clay for it, rather than Plaster of Paris. Cheers!
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