|
Post by realmsmith on Feb 24, 2017 22:36:34 GMT
Just added our second terrain tutorial to our channel. Check it out and please Like/Subscribe if you like what you see!
Cheers!
|
|
|
Post by Brainbot on Feb 25, 2017 10:55:11 GMT
|
|
|
Post by sgtslag on Feb 25, 2017 16:29:55 GMT
Great video demonstrating the foamcore techniques. I took a different path using 2-3 mm thick cardboard several months ago. I get 2' x 4' pieces at the framing supply area of craft stores for around $8-$10. It is strong, and easy to cut with a utility scissors; razor blades work, as well, but they are much harder on the hands, and the scissors are just easier to use, IMO. I print my paper buildings, and structures, on regular 20# paper, on a color laser printer. The paper is less expensive, and easier on my printer's guts, than 110# card stock (I used to repair laser printers -- the paper is far kinder to the fuser assembly and the paper output assembly, than card stock, so they will last much longer; neither assembly is cheap to replace). I use a glue stick to attach the paper skins to the cardboard, pressing it down all over, carefully, to ensure a good bond. I have also used wooden square rods, as you used, to reinforce the corners on castle towers, and wall sections. I use wood glue to bond them inside the corners, on each corner. The towers are quite strong afterwards, and also quite durable. I also use Hot Glue, where I can, to reinforce joins that won't be seen. I made two Fat Dragon Games Siege Towers using the 3 mm thick cardboard. I had to paint the edges of it, but I was able to blend it in rather well. They, too, are quite strong. This technique requires some custom work on the corners, and seams, as you cannot use the glue tabs employed in card stock construction techniques. In the end, though, it works surprisingly well. The structures are very strong, and very durable. They are also heavier than mere card stock builds. This helps quite a bit, on the tabletop. They no longer are subject to the slightest breezes which can send them flying. I am really looking forward to putting on some 2e BattleSystem games using the castle pieces as a city wall. I have a Lich commanding a massive Undead army attacking the living within the city. I have several sets of fantasy medieval buildings to create the city's interior beyond the walls and towers. The two Siege Towers will be critical in the assault. It should be a table full of eye candy models for all to enjoy. It should also be a blast of a game as the Lich has some aerial units which will fly over the wall, to land and attack the citizens hiding within the city! The Humans don't know about that. They will have to take soldiers from the walls to defend the helpless citizens, leaving the walls much weaker, much easier for the Lich's army to crawl over... Need to schedule that game sooner, rather than later. I have all of the models done that I need for it. Mwah-hah-hah!!!
|
|
|
Post by realmsmith on Feb 27, 2017 0:10:59 GMT
Great video demonstrating the foamcore techniques. I took a different path using 2-3 mm thick cardboard several months ago. I get 2' x 4' pieces at the framing supply area of craft stores for around $8-$10. It is strong, and easy to cut with a utility scissors; razor blades work, as well, but they are much harder on the hands, and the scissors are just easier to use, IMO. I print my paper buildings, and structures, on regular 20# paper, on a color laser printer. The paper is less expensive, and easier on my printer's guts, than 110# card stock (I used to repair laser printers -- the paper is far kinder to the fuser assembly and the paper output assembly, than card stock, so they will last much longer; neither assembly is cheap to replace). I use a glue stick to attach the paper skins to the cardboard, pressing it down all over, carefully, to ensure a good bond. I have also used wooden square rods, as you used, to reinforce the corners on castle towers, and wall sections. I use wood glue to bond them inside the corners, on each corner. The towers are quite strong afterwards, and also quite durable. I also use Hot Glue, where I can, to reinforce joins that won't be seen. I made two Fat Dragon Games Siege Towers using the 3 mm thick cardboard. I had to paint the edges of it, but I was able to blend it in rather well. They, too, are quite strong. This technique requires some custom work on the corners, and seams, as you cannot use the glue tabs employed in card stock construction techniques. In the end, though, it works surprisingly well. The structures are very strong, and very durable. They are also heavier than mere card stock builds. This helps quite a bit, on the tabletop. They no longer are subject to the slightest breezes which can send them flying. I am really looking forward to putting on some 2e BattleSystem games using the castle pieces as a city wall. I have a Lich commanding a massive Undead army attacking the living within the city. I have several sets of fantasy medieval buildings to create the city's interior beyond the walls and towers. The two Siege Towers will be critical in the assault. It should be a table full of eye candy models for all to enjoy. It should also be a blast of a game as the Lich has some aerial units which will fly over the wall, to land and attack the citizens hiding within the city! The Humans don't know about that. They will have to take soldiers from the walls to defend the helpless citizens, leaving the walls much weaker, much easier for the Lich's army to crawl over... Need to schedule that game sooner, rather than later. I have all of the models done that I need for it. Mwah-hah-hah!!!
Great post! I'll definitely try some of that!
|
|
|
Post by realmsmith on Feb 27, 2017 0:13:04 GMT
|
|
|
Post by drwillsdc on Mar 1, 2017 16:53:56 GMT
How is the durability of that stuff? It looks really great!
|
|
|
Post by skunkape on Mar 1, 2017 17:36:35 GMT
I've been building Dave Graffam models using foamcore for a while, but always used a rabbet joint to assemble each wall. I need to take some pictures of some of my builds. Wasn't using hot glue though when I was assembling my builds, about 6 years ago. Now that I've got a hot glue gun, I'll need to build some more!
|
|
|
Post by realmsmith on Mar 1, 2017 19:26:49 GMT
How is the durability of that stuff? It looks really great! Really great, especially with the foamcore. I dropped one from my top shelf the other day with minimal damage.
|
|
|
Post by drwillsdc on Mar 2, 2017 0:38:44 GMT
That's awesome. I've seen a lot of foamcore stuff but never did much of it. That siege tower is especially cool!
|
|
|
Post by voodoo on Mar 2, 2017 6:25:19 GMT
Realmsmith really like the final product of your craft. The detailed videos you make are awesome for beginners and 'pros' alike. Cheers!
|
|
|
Post by realmsmith on Mar 2, 2017 14:22:29 GMT
Realmsmith really like the final product of your craft. The detailed videos you make are awesome for beginners and 'pros' alike. Cheers! Thanks! Stay tuned for another soon!
|
|
flyboy
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 13
|
Post by flyboy on Jul 25, 2017 5:16:32 GMT
Realmsmith: I imagine the foamcore you are using is the more expensive stuff rather than the $1 sheet Dollar Tree stuff that is great, but where the backing paper comes off very easily?
|
|
|
Post by sgtslag on Jul 26, 2017 3:05:55 GMT
Holy Craft-tastic! Check out his DM Screen Tutorial!!!...I've seen some nice DM Screens, but this casts them all in the dirt and stomps on them with a victory dance! I have got to make a DM Screen like this. His techniques are good, but there are a few improvements I would suggest: 1) Purchase the Mod Podge Burnishing Kit, from Michael's, and use the rubber wedge it contains, to burnish your paper charts to the MDF surfaces. 2) Apply a thin coat of Mod Podge Furniture Matte to both the MDF surface, and the back of the paper, before you apply it; burnish carefully (see #1, above), then let it dry for a minimum of 2 hours; then apply 2-3 coats of Mod Podge Furniture Matte, to seal it, letting each coat dry for 2 hours before applying the next coat. 3) Use 2-part epoxy, or your glue of choice ( E6000 would be excellent), to attach the emblem, rather than Super Glue, as Super Glue has very weak sheer strength; my concern is that if you bump the emblem from the side, it will likely come off easily. 4) I am NOT a fan of dry-brushing, so I will apply Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain Tudor (black), or Royal Walnut (dark brown) rather than layers of paint, to finish my Screen; it is faster, easier, and much simpler and efficient. I wish realmsmith would come back to post his videos here, when he puts new videos up. They are worth sharing (hence this post!). His DM Screen is drop-dead gorgeous! Beautifully crafted, explained very well, and relatively easy to craft... Cheers!
|
|
|
Post by realmsmith on Jul 26, 2017 3:11:09 GMT
Holy Craft-tastic! Check out his DM Screen Tutorial!!!...I've seen some nice DM Screens, but this casts them all in the dirt and stomps on them with a victory dance! I have got to make a DM Screen like this. His techniques are good, but there are a few improvements I would suggest: 1) Purchase the Mod Podge Burnishing Kit, from Michael's, and use the rubber wedge it contains, to burnish your paper charts to the MDF surfaces. 2) Apply a thin coat of Mod Podge Furniture Matte to both the MDF surface, and the back of the paper, before you apply it; burnish carefully (see #1, above), then let it dry for a minimum of 2 hours; then apply 2-3 coats of Mod Podge Furniture Matte, to seal it, letting each coat dry for 2 hours before applying the next coat. 3) Use 2-part epoxy, or your glue of choice ( E6000 would be excellent), to attach the emblem, rather than Super Glue, as Super Glue has very weak sheer strength; my concern is that if you bump the emblem from the side, it will likely come off easily. 4) I am NOT a fan of dry-brushing, so I will apply Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain Tudor (black), or Royal Walnut (dark brown) rather than layers of paint, to finish my Screen; it is faster, easier, and much simpler and efficient. I wish realmsmith would come back to post his videos here, when he puts new videos up. They are worth sharing (hence this post!). His DM Screen is drop-dead gorgeous! Beautifully crafted, explained very well, and relatively easy to craft... Cheers! Thanks for the love sgtslag! Great tips, I'll definitely use some next time around
|
|
|
Post by skunkape on Jul 26, 2017 13:45:26 GMT
I saw that tutorial and for some reason never thought of posting it on the forums! sgtslag thanks for posting it! realmsmith, really loved the tutorial and plan on doing something for my own GM screen one of these days!
|
|