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Post by runningwolf on Feb 18, 2015 14:32:56 GMT
My father is into making some stuff for the model railroads. We are very differently politically so a good deal of the time we talk about our own craft. DM Scotty has taken 2.5d to the Next level . From various posts seeing other people using things like the foam board it got me to thinking about using some thin wood to make 2.5d tiles. Way back when my father had made some model airplanes and boats. His suggestion was to mix some epoxy and acetate and dip the cardboard, and hanging them up to dry.... granted I cannot do this till spring because of North East Ohio resembling Hoth (there goes another Imperial Probe Droid). From looking into some stuff with the mando Clans they use a fiberglass resin for some of their armor bits. So I was wondering if anyone has done any sort of similar work. The down side is working with a carcinogenic, the up side is more rigidity and hopefully a longer life span. EDIT: also I believe most of the construction is done for the haunted house. And we should be getting into some prop making. Hopefully will be getting some pictures coming soon..... *lol* I am not officially involved with the haunt (I'm a member's boyfriend), but have been talking with their main people in charge of prop making, construction, and acting..... figure good hands on experience for crafting larger props.
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Post by adamantinedragon on Feb 18, 2015 14:57:38 GMT
I wonder how much more durable cardboard would be if you simply took a half and half mixture of water and white glue and painted the cardboard with it and let it dry.
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Post by quinntheviking on Feb 18, 2015 15:21:37 GMT
I wonder how much more durable cardboard would be if you simply took a half and half mixture of water and white glue and painted the cardboard with it and let it dry. I did a three part glue to one part water mix and did that and it worked just fine.
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Post by voodoo on Feb 18, 2015 16:20:16 GMT
great idea never thought of coating the carboard with glue. I'll have to try this if I can find some time to craft gaaaah
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Post by tauster on Feb 18, 2015 16:59:57 GMT
I used 3mm birch plywood for large terrain dioramas (used as a kind of scatter terrain) and it worked fine. Even with layering them with much whiteglue I didn't get the slightest warping, and it's more than strong enough for gaming and storage.
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Post by runningwolf on Feb 18, 2015 17:02:29 GMT
From what my dad was saying the epoxy/acetone mix impregnates the paper and corrugated spaces. The glue is the same idea, and can also use the fiberglass resin. I saw someone on the web use the fiberglass method to make a trailer for their bike. He said the thing held up pretty good and was waterproof (good for the table with spilled drinks). Hopefully when the weather goes from hoth to Tatooine I'll be able to run a few test batches. I figure the process is good for smaller scale stuff like the tiles as well as making larger props like a sword or axe.... If I ran fantasy games would be pretty sweet to make a nice cardboard axe and have that be the mystical weapon .
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Post by quinntheviking on Feb 18, 2015 18:39:49 GMT
I found it out by accident. I would take a large, wide brush, dip it in water, and use Elmer's glue. I'd just squeeze out a liberal amount onto the cardboard, and then brush it on evenly with the wet brush. I do this for all of my flocking, and it works great. Works best when I'm using sand. I just sprinkle it on top of the glue thickly, pat it down, let it dry, bump the excess sand off, and do my base coat of black on top of the sand itself. This works wonderfully for making caves. Might do a tutorial on it at some point.
As a smoker I have enough carcinogens as it is. Fiberglass isn't a very easy substance to work with in my experience, either. Plus, depending on the kind that you're using, you run the risk of getting dozens of little fiberglass needles stuck in your hands and fingers. Never fun.
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on Feb 18, 2015 19:50:00 GMT
One thing with the glue method is that you need to be extremely careful to prevent warping as it dries.
White Glue/PVA contracts as it dries, and you'll need to keep it flat while drying which is difficult to do if you need to coat the entire thing.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Feb 18, 2015 20:23:42 GMT
i was thinking the same. anything water based could work great., but warping will happen. which makes the thing not so great.
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Post by daveyjones on Feb 19, 2015 13:05:14 GMT
say, i saw a video once about how paper was recycled. it was very simple, it was soaked, pulped and then poured into 'moulds' that looked like they might easily be replaced with a baking tray or something like that.
so what if some pva glue was included in the mix?
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on Feb 20, 2015 6:46:10 GMT
say, i saw a video once about how paper was recycled. it was very simple, it was soaked, pulped and then poured into 'moulds' that looked like they might easily be replaced with a baking tray or something like that. so what if some pva glue was included in the mix? The problem might be more towards having it glued to the mould. It also diffuses oddly there. Some of the other types of glue might actually work without the extra there.
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Post by DMScotty on Feb 20, 2015 14:45:13 GMT
I infuse mine with PC blood....bbwwhhhaaaaa
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Post by lordbryon on May 21, 2015 19:30:32 GMT
I infuse mine with PC blood....bbwwhhhaaaaa Nicely done sir.... nicely done.
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Post by runningwolf on May 23, 2015 1:05:17 GMT
I know one of the head guys in charge of props at the haunted house liked the link I sent him about the fiberglass resin (bondo) and cardboard. One where a guy made a bike trailer with cardboard and the fiberglass resin. He says it would be good for the full scale stuff they do and should be good for some of the small scale stuff we do.... Maybe even using the thinner card stock laminated.
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