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Post by DnDPaladin on Feb 15, 2015 10:51:13 GMT
Hey guys and girls, i have finally decided to paint my minis last week. been trying to see why they ended up sticky. found a few answers on the net and it seems to be a problem common to reaper bones plastic reacting to something.
a few people on the net got the same problem and applyed a gloss finish on them to fix them. but before i get myself into something else thats gonna be even more of a burden. i wanted to know one thing....
how do you paint those repear bones minis ? did you ever get into sticky miniatures problem ? and if so, how did you solve it ? anything to recommend to me to avoid having that issue next time around ?
heres what i did... - base coated them black (krylon Flat matte black) - washed them with the color i wanted. - dry brushed them with chosen colors. - adding litttle details like eye colors and the likes.
pretty much waited about 15-20 minutes in between each steps. so what did i do wrong there ?
any advices ? thanks for reading and taking the time for me.
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Post by belatucadras on Feb 15, 2015 11:42:36 GMT
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slurpy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 197
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Post by slurpy on Feb 15, 2015 20:02:21 GMT
Yeah, spray paint often seem to cause issues with plastic figures - I have a dragon from the dollar store that I primed with a cheap spray paint, and three months later it is still tacky, despite three other coats of actual paint. I am actually planning on sealing it with Dullcote later this afternoon, hoping that might do it. I would dip it, because I feel like that's a better seal in general, but it's too big to fit in the jar.
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Post by DMScotty on Feb 15, 2015 22:55:50 GMT
Scrub reaper bones with soap n water or rubbing alcohol before painting. Some mold release can still be on the model.
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Post by DMScotty on Feb 15, 2015 22:56:34 GMT
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Post by DnDPaladin on Feb 15, 2015 23:18:28 GMT
yeah definitely should of cleaned them first... but right now they are already painted so.... i get i have no choice but to hope the sealing method will work.
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Post by adamantinedragon on Feb 16, 2015 3:05:46 GMT
I have some cheap dino figures I got from a toy store and spray painted them green for a base coat. They are still slightly tacky a year later. While cleaning your minis is always a good idea, there does seem to be an issue with the actual plastic used and the particular solvent in the spray paint. I use an air brush now and have had no similar problems.
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Post by rane on Feb 16, 2015 9:57:59 GMT
try a matte acrylic sealer on the minis after your done - it may remove the sticky feeling of the minis while also providing a protective layer to your minis - just don't saturate or over do the sealer or you may retain the sticky texture and cover up details. Just give the mini quick bursts and see if that helps
(Test on alternative surface or small part of mini first - of course)
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Post by DnDPaladin on Feb 16, 2015 20:25:51 GMT
all the more reason for me to go air brush ! after all i plan on buying more bones figures.
rane, any precise brand i could try. tutorial on how to apply such things would also be appreciated !
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Post by Alexis on Feb 16, 2015 21:15:19 GMT
I'm by no means an expert, I've just painted my first minis this week, but I thought I might share my bit of experience anyway. I just bought some minis this week. After some required assembly I washed them thoroughly with a little dishwasher soap using a old toothbrush to scrub and rinsed them with water. When they were completely dry I spraypainted them with a basecoat specifically for minis. Then I just painted them and so far I had absolutely no problem with anything being sticky. I'm not sure if the cleaning or the basecoat spraypaint is responsible. Cleaning is cheap and easy so you can definitely give that a try. Also it might be worth investing in a good basecoat.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2015 21:41:58 GMT
If using the air brush not very often, there are cheaper types that used canned compressed air, no need for the expensive compressor motor.
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Post by rane on Feb 16, 2015 23:05:15 GMT
all the more reason for me to go air brush ! after all i plan on buying more bones figures. rane, any precise brand i could try. tutorial on how to apply such things would also be appreciated ! I found the Matte stuff at walmart for about $5 www.hofcraft.com/patricianimockclearacrylicsealer.htmI don't have much in way of a tutorial - but the way I applied the sealer was following the same instructions that mini painting guides give for applying a base coat. Quick light bursts as to not oversaturate the mini and ruin it's detail. Also do this in a well ventilated area or outside - the acrylic sealer is very strong At first the mini will still be a bit sticky and shiny - but let it dry a few days and it becomes smooth and you can't really notice there is a sealer on it (unless you over saturate it will still be a bit shiny) I put my minis in a cardboard box then put a small desk fan up to it to get a good draft in there to dry all the cracks and crevices for a couple of days.
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Post by kitchenwolf on Feb 17, 2015 19:22:43 GMT
Reaper Bones are PVC. So are Clickies, DDM, Sculpey, and Fimo. Spray paint is thinned with tolulene to get it through the nozzle. Tolulene also dissolves PVC (and brain cells: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toluene_toxicity , and has a code on the MSDS that basically means "the rats didn't live long enough to get cancer"). As has been stated, a PVA coating (brush on matte sealer) will usually cure your stickiness issue. I prime Bones with gesso. It's flexible, non-toxic, and usable indoors and on rainy days. I use Delta Ceramcoat brush on sealers for the same reason.
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Post by belatucadras on Feb 17, 2015 20:59:43 GMT
It has been a while since I've used gesso, but I remember it being kind of thick. Do you experience any loss of details? The Bones line already has some loss of detail.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Feb 17, 2015 21:28:14 GMT
thanks for all these answers, definitely was worth asking. i'm gonna try these off.
as for the air brush, i already have a compressor inside here for cleaning up my computer. so im already half way there. so why not just go fully operationnal. hence why im thinking of also buying some air working dremmel. but thats more money put into this. so i'm thinking about it.
hmmm... i'm the kind that goes too much on base coat that might have been my problem to begin with. so many things to try out, thanks again for all these suggestions. i'll try these up for sure.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Feb 18, 2015 7:16:28 GMT
Confirming something... i took back my dragons that i painted along with my werewolves. while the other miniatures are sticky, these 4 actually are ok. but when touching th ebases, which i base coated and didn't touch while painting, are still sticky. so yeah im confirming that its my spray paint versus my bone figures that is the problem.
now to know what hapenned, your guesses are probably as good as mine. me think the mix of me not washing and probably me puttin too much paint for the base coat is probably my actual cause.
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Post by kitchenwolf on Feb 19, 2015 8:51:46 GMT
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Post by DnDPaladin on Feb 24, 2015 3:37:29 GMT
tryed something today... while i didn't have any of those gesso things and couldn'T find any around the place. i looked at mod podge and saw that it was a finish type of thing. it can also be used to seal acrylic paint.
so i decided to give a good wash of mod podge to my figures. the first thing i noticed is how that mod podge smells the same as my PVA white glue. so im thinking mod podge is just PVA glue. all that said, i mixed it with water to make it a tad more liquid. and washed over all my figures.
i'm glad to say... problem solved ! none of my figures are tacky/sticky anymore. they are all fine and i didn't lose a single drop of detailing on the figures. i also decided to give the sealing technique to my mimics just in case.
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Post by Sleepy Hollow Mike on Apr 24, 2015 21:39:57 GMT
I had that issue with some Reaper Bones I primed with the cheap Wally World flat spray and it took literally a week for them to dry. I am thinking that the chemicals in the spray paint eat the plastic causing the stickyness issue. From now on I prime only with my airbrush!
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Post by sgtslag on Apr 24, 2015 22:43:57 GMT
FYI's regarding Gesso: it is used for priming artists' canvas, for acrylic, and water-color paints. Gesso is a water-based acrylic material, itself. It goes on thickly, but it shrinks as it dries, forming a thin skin over miniatures, with little loss of detail (experiment with it, if you can, but it is not inexpensive to buy...). It is available at art supply stores, such as Michael's, or Hobby Lobby, in the USA. It is available in three colors: white, black, and gray; there is also a clear Gesso, but it has very different properties, and it is not useful as a miniatures primer.
I've used white Gesso as a primer for over a year, on metal, resin, and plastic figures, with equal success. I would recommend sealing painted figures with either Pledge Floor Polish (clear, water-based acrylic; available at the grocery store in the cleaning supplies aisle), or a clear urethane varnish (solvent-based, available in any hardware store, or DIY store, in the paint section). For more information on using Artist's Gesso as a miniatures primer, search the Internet for more reviews, photo's, and commentaries. Cheers!
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