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Post by kitchenwolf on Apr 28, 2015 18:08:28 GMT
The miniatures pictured above were uselessly primed with clear gesso .
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slurpy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 197
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Post by slurpy on Apr 28, 2015 18:34:05 GMT
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Post by DnDPaladin on Apr 29, 2015 19:02:12 GMT
Yep i was using krylon to base paint my minis, so thats definitely a problem. dont use it to base coat your bones.
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Post by Sleepy Hollow Mike on Apr 29, 2015 21:18:53 GMT
FYI's regarding Gesso: it is used for priming artists' canvas, for acrylic, and water-color paints. Gesso is a water-based acrylic material, itself. It goes on thickly, but it shrinks as it dries, forming a thin skin over miniatures, with little loss of detail (experiment with it, if you can, but it is not inexpensive to buy...). It is available at art supply stores, such as Michael's, or Hobby Lobby, in the USA. It is available in three colors: white, black, and gray; there is also a clear Gesso, but it has very different properties, and it is not useful as a miniatures primer. I've used white Gesso as a primer for over a year, on metal, resin, and plastic figures, with equal success. I would recommend sealing painted figures with either Pledge Floor Polish (clear, water-based acrylic; available at the grocery store in the cleaning supplies aisle), or a clear urethane varnish (solvent-based, available in any hardware store, or DIY store, in the paint section). For more information on using Artist's Gesso as a miniatures primer, search the Internet for more reviews, photo's, and commentaries. Cheers! So do not use Testors Dull coat? I have Future I use it in my airbrush as a thnner. Then again I always dip my minis in min wax so is that protection enuff?
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Post by sgtslag on Apr 29, 2015 22:15:31 GMT
You could 'paint' full-strength Future/Pledge Floor Shine on your Bones figures, as a sealer/primer, if desired. It is water-based acrylic, so it won't harm them, but it will provide a barrier between the plastic, and any paint (water- or solvent-based), preventing issues with the plastic interacting with them. After they are coated with a protective barrier, anything goes, so long as "anything" won't penetrate the barrier of acrylic. I'm a huge fan/proponent of The Dip (Minwax Polyshades urethane-stain, solvent-based), and I've successfully Dip'ed many a Bones figure after just painting them with acrylic craft paints: no issues yet, and I started using Bones figures when they first became available, several years in the past. Cheers!
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Post by kitchenwolf on Apr 30, 2015 18:32:08 GMT
I use Future on metal. It's great, allows all sorts of interesting washes without weakening the paint, and it's a tough as nails sealer. Future cracks on the smaller Bones - it's rigid, they're not, conflict arises. Might work on solid stuff with no protrusions, like the Burrowing Horror, but the tendency to flex is why I went to the trouble of switching to gesso in the first place. Polyurethane is flexible and allows a "good enough" paintjob (actually, some of the paintjobs that got the most compliments were dipped). Big thing to remember with that is to go a few shades brighter than intended with the initial block painting.
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Post by quantrill on Apr 30, 2023 4:12:33 GMT
tryed something today... while i didn't have any of those gesso things and couldn'T find any around the place. i looked at mod podge and saw that it was a finish type of thing. it can also be used to seal acrylic paint. so i decided to give a good wash of mod podge to my figures. the first thing i noticed is how that mod podge smells the same as my PVA white glue. so im thinking mod podge is just PVA glue. all that said, i mixed it with water to make it a tad more liquid. and washed over all my figures. i'm glad to say... problem solved ! none of my figures are tacky/sticky anymore. they are all fine and i didn't lose a single drop of detailing on the figures. i also decided to give the sealing technique to my mimics just in case. I am having the same issue with some especially soft plastic figures. You can, by the way use PVA or Modge Podge as an undercoat also. The thing with Modge Podge is you are supposed to give it time to cure (4 weeks!) before painting over it! I have done it in less time without issue. You are right that it includes PVA although it also has a varnish in it. it goes on a little more evenly than pure PVA. However I experimented with PVA on the tacky paint and it worked. i haven't tried the Modge Podge yet. Vallejo also has an undercoat which I tried. it wasn't sticky but when I painted over it the paint was? Enamel is the worst to use over some of the soft plastics but i was surprised when i had issues with acrylics. The first effort I used my usual plastic car spray undercoat followed by GW undercoat spray. This works fine with most soft plastics (kind of plastic used in army men') and ensures paint retention . I think the new ones I have might be a polyvinyl or extra soft plastic..
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Post by margaret on May 1, 2023 16:34:30 GMT
Thanks for the tip about the plastic car spray undercoat. Never thought of that - still not used to cars being plastic!
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Post by sgtslag on May 1, 2023 18:16:12 GMT
tryed something today... while i didn't have any of those gesso things and couldn'T find any around the place. i looked at mod podge and saw that it was a finish type of thing. it can also be used to seal acrylic paint. so i decided to give a good wash of mod podge to my figures. the first thing i noticed is how that mod podge smells the same as my PVA white glue. so im thinking mod podge is just PVA glue. all that said, i mixed it with water to make it a tad more liquid. and washed over all my figures. i'm glad to say... problem solved ! none of my figures are tacky/sticky anymore. they are all fine and i didn't lose a single drop of detailing on the figures. i also decided to give the sealing technique to my mimics just in case. I am having the same issue with some especially soft plastic figures. You can, by the way use PVA or Modge Podge as an undercoat also. The thing with Modge Podge is you are supposed to give it time to cure (4 weeks!) before painting over it! I have done it in less time without issue. You are right that it includes PVA although it also has a varnish in it. it goes on a little more evenly than pure PVA. However I experimented with PVA on the tacky paint and it worked. i haven't tried the Modge Podge yet. Vallejo also has an undercoat which I tried. it wasn't sticky but when I painted over it the paint was? Enamel is the worst to use over some of the soft plastics but i was surprised when i had issues with acrylics. The first effort I used my usual plastic car spray undercoat followed by GW undercoat spray. This works fine with most soft plastics (kind of plastic used in army men') and ensures paint retention . I think the new ones I have might be a polyvinyl or extra soft plastic.. There are numerous formulations for automotive under-coatings: acrylic, enamel, rubberized, plastic, and more... I play wargames using HDPE plastic Army Men figures (d6-based, not Tennis Balls, nor dirt clumps, etc.). I painted my Army Men figures from 1998-2007, sealing them immediately, using urethane-stain, but after 10 years, it rubs off. Seems like very little will adhere to HDPE plastics! Would love to find something that does stick, longer than 10 years. Found some advice on the Internet stating the usual: apply acrylic undercoating if using acrylic paints on top of it; use enamel undercoating if using enamel paints on top of it. I used furniture grade Mod Podge, on one project. It stated I had to wait for it to fully cure in four weeks. So much for Mod Podge being just PVA Glue! Nice to learn that Mod Podge has some sort of varnish in it. I know there are multiple formulations for Mod Podge, for different applications. Great products, still working on finding new minis-based applications for them. Wish I knew something about chemistry. I really want to know that my painting efforts on HDPE plastic figures won't rub off in 10 years... Cheers!
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