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Post by ReliantLion on Oct 11, 2014 3:12:04 GMT
For reference: Is there a video/tutorial describing how to make the more vertical rocks that the monsters are hiding behind in this video? I like how they look and want to copy/make a few.
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Post by SpielMeisterKev! on Oct 11, 2014 4:09:41 GMT
Howdy
Looks like Hirst arts to me?
Kev!
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Post by rane on Oct 11, 2014 4:49:21 GMT
Styrofoam or foamcore would be easiest for that kind of design
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Post by adamantinedragon on Oct 11, 2014 6:00:45 GMT
The vertical rocks that I see on the video still are indeed Hirst Arts, meaning they are likely some sort of plaster product that has been cast using Hirst Arts silicon molds.
However, there have been multiple examples of how to do similar things with simple materials, including cardboard and even building up layers of hot glue to make stalagmites. Probably the easiest way to make some nice stalagmites or vertical rocks would be to get some air dry clay. I'd probably go with Sculpey oven bake polymer clay, but you can do very similar things just using styrofoam that comes from packages, although they will likely have the texture of styrofoam of some sort which may or may not add to the look of the final result.
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Post by ReliantLion on Oct 11, 2014 13:18:27 GMT
I was afraid they were Hirst art. I like the tactical design possibilities they provide, being small and easily providing cover without being a huge piece on the table. I'll see what I can come up with.
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Post by adamantinedragon on Oct 11, 2014 17:58:55 GMT
There are people who sell pre-cast and even painted Hirst blocks. I know I've seen them on eBay, but some people have their own websites.
To sell Hirst Arts blocks you need to have a licensing agreement with Bruce Hirst, so you can't just buy them from anyone who has the molds.
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Post by ReliantLion on Oct 11, 2014 18:27:05 GMT
I just put together two of these using cardboard. Not particularly impressive, but it works for what I want. Basically cut double layered cardboard the size of one wall, then another for the other wall, hot glue together. Then do the same but smaller with normal cardboard. Hide the corrugation, texture, and base. Then paint.
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Post by tauster on Oct 11, 2014 18:41:15 GMT
I just put together two of these using cardboard. Not particularly impressive, but it works for what I want. Basically cut double layered cardboard the size of one wall, then another for the other wall, hot glue together. Then do the same but smaller with normal cardboard. Hide the corrugation, texture, and base. Then paint. pictures please!
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Post by ReliantLion on Oct 11, 2014 20:46:31 GMT
So I realize now that I think about it, this is the same technique as Scotty's 3D ruins. Here is before painting. I might get to prime it today, but we'll see. It's two layers of cardboard think with one of them being double cardboard.
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Post by ReliantLion on Oct 12, 2014 0:44:34 GMT
Here is the completed figure. Kids have been asleep for hours now! Wheeee.... It's not the greatest, but it took so little time it's ridiculous.
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Post by SpielMeisterKev! on Oct 12, 2014 0:54:15 GMT
Howdy,
Fine work young Padowan...EXALT BUTTON!!!
Karma 4 U, Kev!
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Post by adamantinedragon on Oct 12, 2014 2:05:54 GMT
ReliantLion, very nicely done. And thanks for posting the photos. It's things like that I see here on these forums that make me wonder how wise I was to have spent a couple hundred bucks on Hirst Arts molds.... :-)
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Post by DnDPaladin on Oct 12, 2014 12:16:08 GMT
thinking about it, i will need to create some of those too. thanks for showing us the product so we can copy. doesn't seem too hard to do.
the only thing i hate about hot glue though, is that to make rock texture its not really the best. but those are still looking nice reguardless !
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Post by ReliantLion on Oct 12, 2014 13:59:41 GMT
Yeah, I think I'm going to put flocking anywhere the hot glue settled out flat to hide those flaws.
Has anyone used Woodland Scenic flocking before? How is it best to apply? I want to try just white glue and and saturate like I did with my other rocks, but that was using sand/rocks. The flocking is a really fine powder almost.
And thank you all for the feed back!
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Post by DMScotty on Oct 12, 2014 15:35:58 GMT
Perfect.
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Post by skunkape on Oct 20, 2014 16:39:15 GMT
They look good!
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Post by DnDPaladin on Oct 20, 2014 18:43:42 GMT
i did some of my own, not too bad for ruins. i'll do the ther 2 i need and show the pictures of them all.
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Post by sgtslag on Oct 21, 2014 14:17:52 GMT
reliantlion,
I use cheap school paint brushes, from Wal-Mart, $0.99 for 30 brushes, to paint the PVA White Glue across the surface (add a few drops of dish soap to the Glue bottle, mix thoroughly, to help break surface tension, so it spreads more evenly). Then I sprinkle on the Woodlands Scenics stuff, or sand. Let it dry 24 hours, then paint on some Scenic Cement, or watered-down PVA (60% water + 40% PVA + 2 drops of dish soap, to break up surface tension), let that dry 24 hours, and done. I use the School Paint Brushes because they are dirt cheap, and I can afford to throw them out when done using them. The second application of watered-down PVA is critical in sealing the flocking in place. It is especially critical when applying sand, as it is abrasive, and if if falls off, it will damage your terrain, as well as your miniatures. Cheers!
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Post by beetlewing on Oct 21, 2014 16:08:54 GMT
You could also skip the hot glue for texture and use spackle or wood putty.
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Post by adamantinedragon on Oct 21, 2014 16:36:52 GMT
You could also skip the hot glue for texture and use spackle or wood putty. Just to reinforce this, while I think using hot glue for texture and building up things like hot glue stalagmites is a great idea and is a very useful skill to add to a crafter's repertoire, my own experience is that hot glue sticks are pretty expensive when compared to spackle or air dry clays. If I'm doing a bunch of items or a large item, I would tend towards the cheaper materials where I can.
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