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Post by ReliantLion on Oct 21, 2014 17:30:59 GMT
reliantlion, I use cheap school paint brushes, from Wal-Mart, $0.99 for 30 brushes, to paint the PVA White Glue across the surface (add a few drops of dish soap to the Glue bottle, mix thoroughly, to help break surface tension, so it spreads more evenly). Then I sprinkle on the Woodlands Scenics stuff, or sand. Let it dry 24 hours, then paint on some Scenic Cement, or watered-down PVA (60% water + 40% PVA + 2 drops of dish soap, to break up surface tension), let that dry 24 hours, and done. I use the School Paint Brushes because they are dirt cheap, and I can afford to throw them out when done using them. The second application of watered-down PVA is critical in sealing the flocking in place. It is especially critical when applying sand, as it is abrasive, and if if falls off, it will damage your terrain, as well as your miniatures. Cheers! Thanks! I had no idea soap could be used to any effect. Is Elmer's white glue "PVA"?
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Post by rane on Oct 21, 2014 17:54:46 GMT
yes, Elmers will work
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Post by tauster on Oct 21, 2014 19:16:29 GMT
reliantlion, I use cheap school paint brushes, from Wal-Mart, $0.99 for 30 brushes, to paint the PVA White Glue across the surface (add a few drops of dish soap to the Glue bottle, mix thoroughly, to help break surface tension, so it spreads more evenly). Then I sprinkle on the Woodlands Scenics stuff, or sand. Let it dry 24 hours, then paint on some Scenic Cement, or watered-down PVA (60% water + 40% PVA + 2 drops of dish soap, to break up surface tension), let that dry 24 hours, and done. I use the School Paint Brushes because they are dirt cheap, and I can afford to throw them out when done using them. The second application of watered-down PVA is critical in sealing the flocking in place. It is especially critical when applying sand, as it is abrasive, and if if falls off, it will damage your terrain, as well as your miniatures. Cheers! Just a general question to the crafting community*, because I've read this many times already: Do you guys throw the brush away straight after painting the whiteglue with it (because it was dirtcheap)? * ...and sorry for derailing the thread!don't get me wrong, I'm not writing this with a look of reproach - I'm a bit confused because even though my brushes are mostly cheap as well, I always wash them out immediately after use, cheap or not. There is next to zero wear on them. My most-used brush (which was a little bit less cheap then the rest but still not expensive) sees paint or whiteglue almost daily, for about 2 years now. About 3 months it started fraying, so I use it only for paintjobs where details don't matter, but it'll be useful for quite a few months... The same with the rest of the bunch: I can't use all of them for detailed paintjobs anymore, but so far I haven't been forced to throw any brush away. Should some of them near the end of their useful life, I'll dip them in green or brown, let the color dry, cut off the hairs and glue them on for grass bushes. And I'm sure I'll find a use for the rest of the brush too.
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Post by rane on Oct 21, 2014 20:54:17 GMT
I wash any brushes i use with glue/varnish immediately. They are still fine to use
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Post by ReliantLion on Oct 21, 2014 22:40:21 GMT
I did label one of my brushes with "GLUE" on it and wash it after use. I don't use it for painting, though I don't know of any reason not to.
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Post by curufin on Oct 21, 2014 22:46:12 GMT
I have a bunch of low and hi quality brushes. I use both with equal frequency and I always wash them out. I have brushes that my dad used that are 50+ years old. I only use water soluble paints/glue/poly for my crafts, but I think that brushes can last nearly forever if they are cared for.
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Post by rane on Oct 21, 2014 22:56:23 GMT
I have a bunch of low and hi quality brushes. I use both with equal frequency and I always wash them out. I have brushes that my dad used that are 50+ years old. I only use water soluble paints/glue/poly for my crafts, but I think that brushes can last nearly forever if they are cared for. I wish that were true for the cheapo Walmart/Michaels ones I'm using. No matter how well i keep care of my brushes with cleaning/storage the bristles will always become worn and deformed quite easily
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Post by beetlewing on Oct 22, 2014 1:24:34 GMT
If you throw out bristle brushes or foam brushes, keep in mind that the handles are free dowels The foam can also be salvaged for rubble or bushes, etc. Even the metal sleeves off bristle brushes could be used for something.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Oct 22, 2014 2:08:25 GMT
the joy of crafting, everything can be used. even old brushes. throwing them away would be such a waste of precious material...
ooooo Precious !
i too wash them out once im done.
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Post by ReliantLion on Oct 22, 2014 2:45:39 GMT
Scotty used old green-dried-paint brush for tall grass in one of his vids. Don't remember which one, but it's an excellent idea for when you forget to wash your brush.
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Post by sgtslag on Oct 22, 2014 3:37:13 GMT
PVA = Polyvinyl-acetate = White Glue = School GlueYes, I throw them out as they are so ridiculously inexpensive; they also don't do well, even with washing out with Pink Brush Soap, after using them for PVA Glue. Sorry, I've never thought about saving them, as it is so easy to just toss them. The plastic handles are quite brittle, so I really don't care to use them for anything, but if I make them small enough, they might be alright to use. Thanks for the ideas! Cheers!
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Post by beetlewing on Oct 22, 2014 3:45:05 GMT
The plastic handles are quite brittle, so I really don't care to use them for anything, but if I make them small enough, they might be alright to use. I wonder if they could be used like sprues: heated and stretched out, for thin rods to make rivets, icicles, etc...? You could definitely stick them in a drill and use sandpaper to make spears and stuff, leaving a thicker end to carve into a spearhead.
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Post by Cyan Wisp on Oct 22, 2014 5:14:59 GMT
You can also use real stones. They look quite authentic! Nice and heavy, too.
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DM Michael
Paint Manipulator
Preparing for 'In the spider's web' part of LMOP
Posts: 169
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Post by DM Michael on Nov 9, 2014 23:11:59 GMT
I have been unhappy about how the rocks I model looks like. So I decided to experiment a little and watch some youtube videos about how others go around making rocks. These four are the ones that inspired me most: These rocks looks awesome. Unfortunately I can't get any pink or blue foam. This is the video that Mike refers to: Carving foam rocks, the movieI use a lot of expanded polystyrene (EPS). Melting it improves it slightly, but you can still see the little pellets: Finally I found these two guys messing around with tin foil and plaster: The I remembered that DMG used tin foil when modelling natural caves. So I thought this might work, so I made a couple of tests, and it works a lot better than any of my previous stuff. I still think that Mike at TerranScapes rock faces looks better, but since I can't get any pink foam, I have to settle for this. My four test products and the test pieces: The little piece in front was my first test, using zeiterdes. Close up of Polyfilla Close up of Zeiterdes. It is almost identical to polyfilla. Easier to work with but costs 20X more than polyfilla. Regular grout. The grout and the modeller paste stuck to the tinfoil when I pulled it of, so it doesn't have those nice sharp edges: Modellers Paste. Unfortunately I was a little impatient. It wasn't dry when I painted it with black acrylic paint. That is why some of it looks a bit too smooth:
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Post by DnDPaladin on Nov 10, 2014 5:55:03 GMT
i tryed tinfoil too, and i think its the best cheap solution ever.
but to be honest, i also tryed paper towel with waterred down glue and it did look like rocks once it was all dryed up. so i think anything that can actually be crumbled into a form or another is good to make rocks. but yeah tin foil is the easiest as you can simply chrush it into a sphere and then simply undo it with ease and put it down unto any surfaces.
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Post by SpielMeisterKev! on Nov 10, 2014 12:44:34 GMT
Howdy,
All four look great. I think the different end results would be realistic. Not all rocks look the same...
Kev!
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Post by ReliantLion on Nov 11, 2014 0:35:07 GMT
It may even be preferable to have different sets of similar looking rocks. An easy way to achieve that is use multiple methods to make the rocks.
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Post by kitchenwolf on Dec 10, 2014 19:48:57 GMT
P1000857 by kitchen_wolf, on Flickr These are drybrushed pine bark chips, normally intended for flower bed coverage. They'd probably work pretty well painted in a sandstone motif.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Dec 11, 2014 19:43:11 GMT
Nice, i must admit on first thought, id never have thought it was bark.
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