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Post by sgtslag on Jan 18, 2017 14:19:02 GMT
Looks great -- no need to change anything. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 18, 2017 0:42:56 GMT
Just be careful setting mini's and stuff on that surface -- don't press down, or slam them! LCD stands for, "Liquid Crystal Display." With normal use (read, "No Abuse!"), it will work splendidly, for years to come. I've seen a number of folks do this, building custom gaming tables to allow it to be sunk in to the surface. Great setup's, but you do need to have a digital map to work with... You might want to consider covering it's screen with clear Contact Paper (matte, not glossy finish; translucent vinyl, used to cover cupboards, available at Wal-Mart kitchen section), to protect it from scratches. Again, it just depends on how much prep work you care to do. It is hard to beat the TV screen with a gorgeous full-color map layout. I love the idea, but for me, it tends to turn the RPG session into a mini's game. I play 2e BattleSystem/BattleSystem Skirmish, and 2e AD&D, so I do it all, already. Each game has a different feel, and I love them all. I just tend to do so much impromptu RPG'ing that this kind of setup is rarely practical for me. For my BS games, however, it is all about mini's, terrain, and such. Your game, your approach. Keep sharing, I love the eye-candy, and the write-up's. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 17, 2017 21:51:30 GMT
We really are spoiled for choices... Back in the day, we had a few, simple options: Theater of the Mind; using dice for representing PC's, and monsters; maybe a few figures (lucky if they were painted -- using gloss enamel model paints from Testor's!); or if you were wealthy, you might have had some cardboard dungeons...
Today we have a smorgasboard: from Theater of the Mind, up to digital projections on the tabletop, with pre-painted mini's running around the projected image, to full-blown 3D such as Dwarven Forge! It is truly incredible how things have changed in the past 30 years... I love it! Cheers, and game on!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 16, 2017 16:29:03 GMT
Nice work! Thanks for sharing your insights on making/using these molds. Much appreciated! Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 16, 2017 16:24:12 GMT
Why not make more accurate scatter bits? You have gone to such great lengths elsewise, it makes sense to do the same here. Besides, if you move away from water-formed caverns, you will need to convey the difference visually, with sharper edges, formed from fractures, as in earthquakes, and such. When lava cools, slowly, the molten rock material forms crystal structures, which often results in sharp edges, defined strata, etc. It will convey a different mood, altogether. Just some food for thought. As a friend once told me, "Chew the hay, spit out the sticks." Only you can decide what is hay, and what is sticks... Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 16, 2017 13:58:01 GMT
Go to your local supplier, and calculate the price per pound (or gram). That is the only way to know how they compare, really. It sounds like a good deal, but... Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 16, 2017 13:55:42 GMT
Too much red. Needs some orange and yellow colors. Take a look at some photo's of lava for inspiration. As far as texture goes, it is fine.
Bear in mind, however, that active lava will not create rounded scatter terrain pieces. Those are formed by water carrying minerals suspended, which gives it the nice rounded look. Again, look at volcano/lava photo's for realistic ideas on what shapes can be used for scatter/rocks jutting out of lava flows. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 15, 2017 18:22:46 GMT
The temperature is low enough (270 degrees F?) that the wood will be fine. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 14, 2017 1:43:06 GMT
Are we there yet?... Is it soup, yet?... How much longer?... Is it done yet?...
LOL! Can't wait to see it finished. Never heard of Beholder's using ships before this thread. Blows me away, as they give me the creeps, just as described in the 1977 Monster Manual. These are chilling: the idea of Beholders having ships, being organized, working together with others of their kind... I'm the DM, and I nearly crapped my breeches! Love it! [Boom!!!] Mind blown... Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 14, 2017 1:35:49 GMT
Very nice work. Thanks for sharing, and inspiring! Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 14, 2017 1:34:07 GMT
Looking forward to seeing what you make... Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 14, 2017 1:30:40 GMT
I've applied urethane-stain to miniatures, after which, I painted them with acrylic craft paints... No issues. Zero. Nada. Zip. Zilch. "Damn the torpedoes! Full steam ahead!" Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 13, 2017 18:52:13 GMT
A couple of the Judge Dredd photo's made me pause: is that Judge Dredd, or the computer game, "Doom!", done with miniatures? Very neat stuff. Love the figure with the rocket launcher on his right shoulder -- looks like a giant, terrifyingly armed, chicken! LOL! Amazing stuff. Keep it up, and, please, keep sharing photos... Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 13, 2017 18:40:45 GMT
Looks sharp! Thanks for the explanation -- makes perfect sense. Did not see it, initially. Your paint scheme is perfect, too. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 13, 2017 13:56:40 GMT
Very impressive... Really looking forward to seeing it painted. Superb eye-candy. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 13, 2017 13:51:34 GMT
Wow! Very nice! Thanks for sharing, and inspiring. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 13, 2017 13:49:43 GMT
I like how you created standing positions for mini's in your slopes. Neat concept, should work quite well. Looking forward to seeing it in full. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 13, 2017 13:47:36 GMT
Do you need the connecting structure across the ground, between the vertical columns on the arch? It would save time, and material if you removed the connecting structure. I don't see how it serves any useful purpose, except possibly to create a base to stabilize the vertical columns? Just a noob's observation, and question. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 13, 2017 3:38:10 GMT
The best 'glue' for fired Sculpey, is Liquid Sculpey. Apply a small amount, put together, and fire as per the instructions. Just make sure the pieces are touching where the Liquid Sculpey is, between the two pieces. Leave them touching until they cool to room temperature. Only then can you handle them. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 12, 2017 13:50:38 GMT
How realistic do you want them to be? Water in caves tends to be quite clear, without much blue, when shallow; for deep water in caverns, it can be pitch black, due to light not penetrating to the bottom (took a boat ride through water-filled caverns in West Virginia, several years ago -- quite unsettling, actually, especially when they turned off the lights, and we were plunged into absolute darkness...).
With regards to stalagmites of differing colors, I guess I would have them vary colors by location: group them by color, so that each area is roughly the same color, to indicate a change in the rock minerals, as the party progresses through the caverns. This would give 'landmarks', useful for navigation through the Underdark; both players, and inhabitants, would then be able to give directions, and maps that showed more than just curving(?) passages. Just my suggestion -- do what feels right for you! Cheers!
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