sotf
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Post by sotf on Jan 3, 2018 3:22:32 GMT
Good point, he left an overhang on the skirt for just that at a later date, probably sooner than later. You probably already considered a brace board in the middle under the mdf surface. Seal with a varnish for sure Overhang would be more for adding a leg, the brace would be across in under the MDF, possibly screwed to it as well. If it was wider, I'd suggest more than 1 or 2, because the design is pretty close to the standard, cheap design for a wargame table because MDF and plywood tends to bow easily in the middle. Though with a center-back additional leg, you would have a nice support for bolting on some pegboard to add space by having a place to store your tools out of the way...
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Jan 2, 2018 15:46:45 GMT
I've got an older workbench of about the same size and construction. One major thing that would probably be worth doing is to add one or two braces to the top. It will keep it from bowing as you go along, it would also let you support heavier things on it.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Dec 30, 2017 5:50:35 GMT
Reaper has added a few more npc types in bones, not entirely sure if they're listed as townsfolk or not, but I'm getting a few to add to my collection.
Lead Adventure has a LOT of them in their range.
You can also find a lot of rather cheap ones around now as part of various village sets that work well enough for them. I used to have a rather nice boxed set of villagers for a Bethlehem village set that I'd found a LONG time ago which I had to paint up, but was a great thing.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Dec 29, 2017 1:36:20 GMT
For the stalagmites and, probably, the ice spires, you really ought to add a lot of gloss to them.
And for the stalagmites, they probably could use a layer of hot glue in order to make them look more like real ones.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Dec 27, 2017 23:11:32 GMT
I've tried making 1.25 inch tiles before (like the "easier tiles" video from Wyloch) But it was difficult to cut the cardboard. That's why they turded out with wrong measurements (example:2.5 by 2.7) But your idea to make them from wood it's a concept I've been thinking for a while... If it wasn't for me deciding to put walls on several of them, I would have gone with an easier, more stylized approach for them. Without the walls, if you get some nice woodstain you like and hit it with that, it looks more refined...and people tune the coloration out as you play on them. With the laser, if you go that route, the easiest way to do it is to cut large sheets at the same time with a two pass approach and two patterns. The first being your grid etching while the second to cut the actual tiles.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Dec 27, 2017 1:57:18 GMT
Easy depends a lot on what you have access to.
I've lucked out recently with the library having a laser cutter/etcher that's open for use. Making tiles with it is pretty simple and look great, but if you don't have access to one, well, they're a lot harder to make.
Mine are the 1.25" grid with 2x2 for each tile. It's cut in plywood and I use some of the thin craft sticks for wall pieces glued over the edge similarly to the Wyloch ones.
I use a spray primer over the whole thing and cover the entire piece. Then the top and sides get a layer of stone texture spray. The thing gets a wash. Then a layer of varnish to seal it.
I finish the tile with adhesive backed felt to both keep them from sliding around and because it keeps my hide intact with a few peoples significant others...including my own at times. With the spray layers, the time per tile drops heavily the more you make at a time.
Sure, I tend to take a week to make a batch, but it's not much time for each step with what needs to be done...in the 10-15 minutes a day for the entire thing and about 10 seconds a tile (Those do go up a bit with the last step, but that's more because of cutting felt than anything else), then waiting until the next day for the next layer.
But, again, if you don't have a laser cutter, or a place you can get or use the spray paint for it, well, time skyrockets and the quality drops because it's pretty hard to have the consistent lines for the tiles that makes them look professional.
A lot of easy methods are also time consuming if you don't have special stuff.
One that I did a long while back was using the cheap foam board and chip board. It can look good, but with the pile of steps to harden it against damage during use, texture it, and all the rest, well, it takes time.
It's one of the major disagreements I've had with Scotty (earlier stuff) and DMG is that the tiles are things that you really want to, pretty much, ragnarok proof them if they're ones that are designed that you can use them again and again. Players can be destructive SoB's that you need to deal with the aftermath of if you want to keep using them, and while a few centerpiece items are great for a session which can be more fragile because you don't need to reuse them much if at all, your main, bread and butter tiles are ones that need to be sturdy to take a lot of abuse or you'll end up spending a whole lot more time in remaking them after someone crushes them, spills their drink on them, snaps one in half, or a thousand other things.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Dec 23, 2017 8:45:36 GMT
No I have not delved into smaller scale, I think mainly because I enjoy the model painting aspect more than actual gameplay... While not having much in the way of painting for the minis, you might enjoy a game like Sails of Glory. Terrain work for it, however, is rather fun and a very different thing than for the normal scales we tend to mess with. And the real fun is with those scales, a lot of the same materials transfer rather well. Some of the flocks are still used, just for representing woods rather than grass, and a lot of the fancier, large hills and rocks become islands.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Dec 22, 2017 21:15:36 GMT
I've been working on plans for a custom chess set and board (with storage). That'll be largely next year.
I'm also getting things together for a map of a large chunk of my campaign world inspired by the terrain tutors one from last summer.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Dec 22, 2017 6:26:15 GMT
Wyloch, do you play any other scale wargames, like 10mm or 15mm? There is a distinct lack of 10/15mm wargaming terrain on youtube........ HINT... HINT! One of the real fun things to do is to play some of the games like Kings of War or similar as written, just using the smaller scale minis multibased in larger numbers. For 15mm, it's normally like 4-5 minis on the same base as one 25-32mm one
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Dec 21, 2017 21:47:29 GMT
You might want to look at the Terrain Tutor's fabled realms campaign map project on YouTube.
I've started some work on one of my own campaign, but it's slow going with everything else going on for me.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Dec 11, 2017 4:17:47 GMT
Mentioned it in the video comments, might as well do it here as well.
It's probably a better idea to paint the internal supports and the banner poles before you glue them in place in order to keep from having accidents with the paint ending up on things.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Nov 30, 2017 21:42:01 GMT
Just as an idea that hit me about a way to do this.
Rather than the clear underbase, what about going to the keyring isle and get the 1" rings and glue it to the side of the ring...or even get a one inch pole piece and wrapping a heavy wire around it in a figure 8 of the torch and the piece of wood in order to just have it around the base and with the other loop being around the torch and glued in place there while the figure can be used easily.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Nov 30, 2017 5:14:51 GMT
I would suggest that you add a weight to the center of the base section. It would add a bit to keep them from getting knocked around during setup.
You might also consider using the same torch technique and make a few that are for dropped torches, in a dry area, using them as tossed down or dropped light sources is something that would be used...if nothing else for those who have seen movies like Indiana Jones where it's used a few times to light areas.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Nov 24, 2017 6:58:00 GMT
Not sure if it's the paint or the camera blurring colors, but from the pics, it looks like you could use a bit of a lighter drybrush over them.
They do look very good though
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Nov 19, 2017 4:29:17 GMT
I found a few signet rings on Thingiverse so apparently it can be done. I'm not sure hot hot the sealing wax is after pouring, but I don't think it would be hot enough the degrade a PLA signet. The hot-end on my 3d printer is at about 215 degrees C (419 F) for PLA. I believe the sealing wax melts between (93-148.9 C) or 200-300 degrees F. PLA melts at between 180-220 C. I think you should be okay with a 3d printed PLA signet ring. Just as a major note, not all printers are in plastic.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Nov 17, 2017 1:55:13 GMT
Not really a good idea there.
If you don't already have the specifics of the seal already shown to the players, go to the craft store and look through the metal charms isle. You can probably find a decent dove one there that could be mounted on a dowel more easily than engraving around one.
Also, since it's near christmas, you might also want to take a glance at stamps, the dove is one that tends to pop up a lot with christmas ones, and a lot of the nicer ones can stand up to heat rather well.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Nov 14, 2017 23:52:28 GMT
I think the problem is that the pattern is more of a stone block construction rather than bricks.
Bricks tend to be a lot smaller in comparison.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Nov 5, 2017 0:19:05 GMT
You might want to add a few layers of gloss over the crystals, it would help make them look more like crystals.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Nov 3, 2017 14:45:10 GMT
Might be a better idea to use a larger foam ball for the igloo. As it is, the thing looks a bit to small for normal use.
Plus with a larger one, you could use a few drops of plastic glue to, well, melt into the interior so that you could have interior stuff under it as well.
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sotf
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Post by sotf on Nov 1, 2017 16:03:55 GMT
One thing you might consider is making more of the mushrooms and basing them in a larger ring, they look like they'd be the right size to make a fairy ring with.
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