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Post by Deleted on Dec 24, 2017 20:27:50 GMT
I just started crafting about 2 months ago.I have tried 2 tile systems (wyloch's 1.25 grid and dmscotty's tilescapes) wyloch's turned out great (but not as perfect as I would like) and dmscotty's were a failure,because the cork tiles didn't turned out as stiff as they were supposed to be.And now I need some help!!
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Post by SpielMeisterKev! on Dec 24, 2017 23:32:13 GMT
Howdy,
What was the issue with the 1.25" grid?
Kev!
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Post by margaret on Dec 25, 2017 2:05:16 GMT
One of the challenges when working with cork is that different types vary in their flexibility and density. If what you have available differs from that used by your reference you may have less optimal results. Doesn't help that retailers may change their sources, and manufacturers may change their product without giving any indication that their current line is different from what they distributed a year ago.
Can you salvage the cork floors by gluing them to cardboard?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 25, 2017 9:11:47 GMT
The problem with 1.25 inch grid is that the measurements are realy difficult to copy.
The problem with cork might be the glue I was using,but the quality of the cork might also be responsible for the tiles not turning out as stiff.
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Post by bobtheskull on Dec 26, 2017 4:56:45 GMT
Personally, I like foamboard tiles, but you have to be pretty patient to sculpt them (unless you use a textured roller, or a homemade texture stamper). And they have a bad habit of curling if you don't take lots of care to combat it. They sure look cool, though.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 26, 2017 8:19:54 GMT
Sounds like a good idea.
But I have started experimenting with 2.5D tiles.
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Post by sgtslag on Dec 26, 2017 18:00:30 GMT
I made a 2.75D version of the classic Steading of the Hill Giants, a large, wooden fort, using flat printed panels, which I glued to 2mm-thick cardboard. These formed the wall sections, with/without doors, as needed. I used the now unavailable Skullworks Cove set from WorldWorksGames.com, for the fort walls. I then used the foam floor mats, from Harbor Freight, painted, and cut 1/4" deep, with a table saw, to form a 1" grid. The cut lines allowed me to insert the wall sections, as needed, to form the Steading walls, and rooms. Link to a photo illustrating the finished product: Steading Main Hall, during the big fight; second, wider shot of the setup. I am working on the same concept, for dungeons: paint the foam sections a mottled series of gray, and white, with some browns and yellows, for highlight. With the 1/4" cuts, in grid formation, I can insert the 2mm-thick dungeon wall sections, as desired, to form hallways, and rooms. For the dungeon walls, I am using a just-released dungeon 2.75D paper wall model set, Infinte Dungeons: Core Set, by Paper Realms, on RGPNow.com. I am not using it as intended by the publisher -- I am only using the wall printouts, which I will be adhering to the 2mm-thick cardboard. Once I make enough wall sections, I will be able to make virtually any dungeon shape/configuration desired, as long as it is rectangular... For round areas, I will have to get more creative. Here is a link to a photo of the concept using an earlier dungeon wall product, whose name I forget (not as good as the new one listed above: sample dungeon setup, proof of concept. My approach is very labor-intensive: it requires a lot of pieces of the 2mm-thick cardboard wall sections, but once they are done, I will be set. I am planning to run G3 Halls of the Fire Giants, in two years, using this dungeon setup, to recreate the Halls, just as I did with the G1 Steading of the Hill Giants. Had to go a different route for G2 Against the Frost Giant Jarl, but that is another thread, and another story. Cheers!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 26, 2017 20:13:01 GMT
I suggest that you'll create round walls by making a rectangle with tabs that will be plased in the mats.Then you make it into a curved wall.
I hope that this will give some ideas!
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Post by sgtslag on Dec 26, 2017 20:45:14 GMT
Not bad! Not bad at all. I can work with that. It's a great idea. Thank you! Cheers!
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on Dec 27, 2017 1:57:18 GMT
Easy depends a lot on what you have access to.
I've lucked out recently with the library having a laser cutter/etcher that's open for use. Making tiles with it is pretty simple and look great, but if you don't have access to one, well, they're a lot harder to make.
Mine are the 1.25" grid with 2x2 for each tile. It's cut in plywood and I use some of the thin craft sticks for wall pieces glued over the edge similarly to the Wyloch ones.
I use a spray primer over the whole thing and cover the entire piece. Then the top and sides get a layer of stone texture spray. The thing gets a wash. Then a layer of varnish to seal it.
I finish the tile with adhesive backed felt to both keep them from sliding around and because it keeps my hide intact with a few peoples significant others...including my own at times. With the spray layers, the time per tile drops heavily the more you make at a time.
Sure, I tend to take a week to make a batch, but it's not much time for each step with what needs to be done...in the 10-15 minutes a day for the entire thing and about 10 seconds a tile (Those do go up a bit with the last step, but that's more because of cutting felt than anything else), then waiting until the next day for the next layer.
But, again, if you don't have a laser cutter, or a place you can get or use the spray paint for it, well, time skyrockets and the quality drops because it's pretty hard to have the consistent lines for the tiles that makes them look professional.
A lot of easy methods are also time consuming if you don't have special stuff.
One that I did a long while back was using the cheap foam board and chip board. It can look good, but with the pile of steps to harden it against damage during use, texture it, and all the rest, well, it takes time.
It's one of the major disagreements I've had with Scotty (earlier stuff) and DMG is that the tiles are things that you really want to, pretty much, ragnarok proof them if they're ones that are designed that you can use them again and again. Players can be destructive SoB's that you need to deal with the aftermath of if you want to keep using them, and while a few centerpiece items are great for a session which can be more fragile because you don't need to reuse them much if at all, your main, bread and butter tiles are ones that need to be sturdy to take a lot of abuse or you'll end up spending a whole lot more time in remaking them after someone crushes them, spills their drink on them, snaps one in half, or a thousand other things.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2017 10:51:40 GMT
I've tried making 1.25 inch tiles before (like the "easier tiles" video from Wyloch) But it was difficult to cut the cardboard.
That's why they turded out with wrong measurements (example:2.5 by 2.7)
But your idea to make them from wood it's a concept I've been thinking for a while...
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Post by sgtslag on Dec 27, 2017 13:55:13 GMT
I've made 2D tiles, using Fat Dragon Games' Copper Dragon Dungeon Tiles. However, I stick them to vinyl floor tiles, the peel-n-stick type, costing me $0.39/square foot, from Menards DIY store. I don't care what the floor tile looks like, as I am applying the cut out dungeon tile to the glue side of the floor tile, which has its pattern down on the table. Here is a link to my vinyl floor tile projects -- scroll down roughly halfway, to see my dungeon tiles on vinyl floor tiles. Anyway, I keep mine flat, unlike AJ Pickett, who cuts the edges off, and glues them to cardboard, then glues that on top of the main tile, to raise up the borders -- it looks fantastic, but it is more work than I want to do. AJ's technique also makes it more difficult to store the tiles, as they are not flat. I also cover my paper tiles' top surface with clear Contact Paper (translucent vinyl cupboard liner, peel-n-stick). The Contact Paper makes my tiles water resistant, and I can mark on them with wet-erase markers. The vinyl floor tiles are easy to cut with utility scissors (heavy-duty scissors). They are inexpensive, heavy, and very easy to use. The hardest part in using them, is to figure out how many pieces of each type, you will need for your games. They are completely modular. Their downside, is that they are strictly 2D. I like them for RPG sessions, but if I am playing 2e's BattleSystem Skirmishes, and running a dungeon adventure, I want 3D terrain, as that game is all about the miniatures experience. Cheers!
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on Dec 27, 2017 23:11:32 GMT
I've tried making 1.25 inch tiles before (like the "easier tiles" video from Wyloch) But it was difficult to cut the cardboard. That's why they turded out with wrong measurements (example:2.5 by 2.7) But your idea to make them from wood it's a concept I've been thinking for a while... If it wasn't for me deciding to put walls on several of them, I would have gone with an easier, more stylized approach for them. Without the walls, if you get some nice woodstain you like and hit it with that, it looks more refined...and people tune the coloration out as you play on them. With the laser, if you go that route, the easiest way to do it is to cut large sheets at the same time with a two pass approach and two patterns. The first being your grid etching while the second to cut the actual tiles.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 28, 2017 10:37:44 GMT
I don't have a laser cutter. I've also been thinking about making mine out of mdf.
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Post by margaret on Dec 29, 2017 19:38:14 GMT
If you can be really careful about how you shove cardboard across an unshielded blade, wilmanric posted a DIY cardboard strip cutter on this forum several years ago: dmscraft.proboards.com/thread/855/diy-cardboard-cutting-tableAll it needs is 2 pieces of wood, 2 screws, a package of utility knife blades, and a lot care in using and storing so that blade doesn't get you.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2017 21:52:06 GMT
If you can be really careful about how you shove cardboard across an unshielded blade, wilmanric posted a DIY cardboard strip cutter on this forum several years ago: dmscraft.proboards.com/thread/855/diy-cardboard-cutting-tableAll it needs is 2 pieces of wood, 2 screws, a package of utility knife blades, and a lot care in using and storing so that blade doesn't get you. Well...this idea is nice...but it'll be difficult to cut double corrugated cardboard..
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 2, 2018 17:22:49 GMT
@iceshocker712, if you plan to use MDF, then you will likely want two particular saws: Table Saw (large, long, straight, accurate cuts -- only way to do this, really); and, a Miter Saw/Chop Saw, for smaller, square cuts, particularly on longer, narrow strips, such as cutting bases for figures. If you live in the USA, check out the usual suspects: DIY stores, and Harbor Freight, if you have one.
The saws need only sport 10" blades, for hobby cutting. If you get yourself a Miter Saw, and you want to cut multiple bases (1"-square, 2"-square, etc.), try stacking MDF strips, then wrapping them with masking tape, to keep them together, and to allow cutting multiples at once. My nephew cut me up around 100, 2"-square bases, out of MDF, using his Table Saw, to cut the larger MDF into 2"-wide strips, then he used his Miter Saw to cut the squares from the strips. Fast, and easy, as well as accurate.
To use a Band Saw to cut accurately, you would need one made of cast iron, which can handle blade tensions of 25,000 PSI. Otherwise the blade will flex, and you will NOT be able to cut straight, and accurate. For cutting curves, they are good, though.
I'm on the fence with regards to buying a Miter Saw. I already have a Table Saw. I tried cutting small bases with the Table Saw: it hurled them into me when the blade cut the last... The Miter Saw will avoid turning the bases into projectiles. I've used my Table Saw to cut up 4"- and 6"-square bases out of MDF. Works superbly. Cheers!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2018 22:31:44 GMT
Well... Out of ideas... I have tryed dmscraft Tilescapes,dmg.info 2.5d tiles, wyloch 1.25inch grid tiles.. but I just can't make dungeon tiles I need help!!!
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Post by bobtheskull on Jan 17, 2018 1:28:18 GMT
Alright, let's talk design. What do you want the final product to look like? What are your expectations?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2018 13:58:01 GMT
I have been thinking about creating my own variation of the 2.5d method of tiles creation (combining dmscraft's and dmg's methods)
I will probably post pictures on a new thread.
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