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Post by tauster on Jan 12, 2017 8:17:32 GMT
My first reaction was saying 'of course they should look like the floor'. Because that's only logical and to be expected. On the other hand, you want things to stand a little out... A good compromise might be to paint them with the same color scheme but here and there add a little eyecatcher in another color: a mushroom, some crystals, a vein of ore etc. Something like this: deafnala is a master of this technique, search his threads for inspiration. He did some great monochromatic pieces with eyecatchers in them. I tried to do something similar here.
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Post by jennifer on Jan 12, 2017 10:41:11 GMT
My first reaction was saying 'of course they should look like the floor'. Because that's only logical and to be expected. On the other hand, you want things to stand a little out... A good compromise might be to paint them with the same color scheme but here and there add a little eyecatcher in another color: a mushroom, some crystals, a vein of ore etc. Something like this: deafnala is a master of this technique, search his threads for inspiration. He did some great monochromatic pieces with eyecatchers in them. I tried to do something similar here. That sounds good. I guess what I was saying is: say I paint the cavern with sponged layers of blue, green & purple. Then have one stalagmite that's monochromatic purple, one that is monochromatic blue and another that is monochromatic green.. and have them mixed .. I wonder if that'd look good. Or maybe I should just do as you say.
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Post by tauster on Jan 12, 2017 11:33:53 GMT
Best way to find out is to try all variants.
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 12, 2017 13:50:38 GMT
How realistic do you want them to be? Water in caves tends to be quite clear, without much blue, when shallow; for deep water in caverns, it can be pitch black, due to light not penetrating to the bottom (took a boat ride through water-filled caverns in West Virginia, several years ago -- quite unsettling, actually, especially when they turned off the lights, and we were plunged into absolute darkness...).
With regards to stalagmites of differing colors, I guess I would have them vary colors by location: group them by color, so that each area is roughly the same color, to indicate a change in the rock minerals, as the party progresses through the caverns. This would give 'landmarks', useful for navigation through the Underdark; both players, and inhabitants, would then be able to give directions, and maps that showed more than just curving(?) passages. Just my suggestion -- do what feels right for you! Cheers!
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Post by skunkape on Jan 12, 2017 14:10:07 GMT
(took a boat ride through water-filled caverns in West Virginia, several years ago -- quite unsettling, actually, especially when they turned off the lights, and we were plunged into absolute darkness...). We went into some caves in North Carolina, probably 30 years or so ago and they turned the lights off at one point during our trip. You're right Sgtslag, that is one very unsettling moment how dark it can be! As far as the colors Jennifer, go with what you feel looks good like the others have said. I like the various colors you have used so far and you can use both the gray scheme on one set and a brown on another and the colors will have a little different effect on the players. It will be a subtle effect, but subconsciously, the different color tones will cause slightly different moods. The browns and yellows will make a warmer environment, while the grays and blues will make a colder environment.
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Post by jennifer on Jan 12, 2017 15:44:03 GMT
Here's a simple example of what can be done. Made some passageway pieces. Going to make a variety of shapes and try to make them look as natural as possible -- unlike the lower passageway which is pretty much straight instead of randomly wavy (I did better on the second one, the upper one). My archway is 3 inches wide, but the Hirst Arts ones (the ones I am getting the mold for here soon in the mail).. they are 2 inches wide. They'd be perfect to sit where the narrow passages butt up against the larger rooms. Imagine one at each joint, it'd look seamless.
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on Jan 12, 2017 17:29:42 GMT
Tauster, is there an easy way I can make a mold of the hot glue stalagmite I just made? I'd like to make like 10 casts of it if I can. I bought that silicone caulk -- I think it was you that mentioned it -- but never got around to using it. It's still sitting here. If you want to make more than a few copies, it's more worth it to just buy a kit for making molds at the craft store. The silicone molds from those kits is far more durable and easier to use for getting details along with getting more casts out of them. They also have less of a major issue with things. Either way, one of the best tools for mold making beyond the actual, normal materials for someone just starting out is to get a large, box fan that you can lay flat (facing upwards) on two 2x4s or other flat supports. When making your molds, put a piece of plywood over the flat area you need and use that as the area to work on. The same platform also works great for actually casting on. The main reason is that it's a simple and cheap vibration table option that works out a whole lot more air bubbles and helps work your material into the smaller details you want picked up. However, vibration tables don't really help as much if you're using hot glue to fill molds as it cures far to quickly to get the benefit and is thicker from the start.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Jan 12, 2017 22:03:15 GMT
Just for references over the course of history.
most natural cavern systems are brownish yes, but most underground structures of old were made using grey blocks which i dont remember the type of stone, but definitely grey in shades. hence why we mostly go for grey stones in dungeons.
that said the more differences between natural caverns and dungeons built bricks by bricks, the better right ?
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Post by jennifer on Jan 12, 2017 22:54:52 GMT
Just for references over the course of history. most natural cavern systems are brownish yes, but most underground structures of old were made using grey blocks which i dont remember the type of stone, but definitely grey in shades. hence why we mostly go for grey stones in dungeons. that said the more differences between natural caverns and dungeons built bricks by bricks, the better right ? Well, I know that by keeping it all grey, it works with all other terrain / props you might have that you use in a grey dungeon.. that's one advantage. I dunno, I guess I wanted something different this time. I'm liking it
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Post by jennifer on Jan 12, 2017 23:59:08 GMT
Made four mushrooms with a few cents worth of sculpey in literally five minutes! Thanks Meph for the inspiration to craft these myself: dmscraft.proboards.com/thread/2533/shriekers-eeeeekI'll have my cavern filled with unique mushrooms in no time! No two will look alike! I might also buy the set of Dwarven Forge painted ones as well. I like the paint job on them and get quite a few for $30.. the shipping kills me though. I'll adhere the fired stems to the fired caps with a bit more of sculpey (can I mix it with water to thin it down to a paste btw?). Then I'll re-fire for like 7-10 minutes? Wish I had curufin's v-gouge tool.. I'd work some of the stems with it. Thinking about buying that tool. I could of done it with a knife or some other clay sculpting tool before firing though. Wow, I really do need a good set of tools. Recommendations welcome! I really dig sculpting stuff. I used the back end of a pocket knife and the ends of two different brushes for all the work below.
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Post by jennifer on Jan 13, 2017 0:43:21 GMT
What's the best way to adhere these stems to caps? I tried a bit of sculpey and re-baking to no avail.
Should I hot glue them or will the chemicals in the sculpey deteriorate the hot glue? Should I use e6000 or will the acid mess up the sculpey? Should I use super glue? Whte glue?
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 13, 2017 3:38:10 GMT
The best 'glue' for fired Sculpey, is Liquid Sculpey. Apply a small amount, put together, and fire as per the instructions. Just make sure the pieces are touching where the Liquid Sculpey is, between the two pieces. Leave them touching until they cool to room temperature. Only then can you handle them. Cheers!
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Post by jennifer on Jan 13, 2017 6:38:01 GMT
Cavern ArchwaySo I need several of these 3 inch wide, about 3 inch tall Cavern Archways and don't feel like making them out of sculpey. So I sculpted it in Blender today. I am printing it now. I'll make available after I've printed this one and painted it.
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Post by jennifer on Jan 13, 2017 7:41:28 GMT
Finished painting this round of shrooms.
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Post by margaret on Jan 13, 2017 7:42:11 GMT
"Wish I had curufin's v-gouge tool.. I'd work some of the stems with it. Thinking about buying that tool" If I remember correctly, that tool is item "E", the 75° Parting tool at: www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=44106&cat=1,130,43332,43334&ap=1 I ordered it as part of the 5-piece set for myself with my Christmas gift card, because I have other uses for them/
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Post by sgtslag on Jan 13, 2017 13:47:36 GMT
Do you need the connecting structure across the ground, between the vertical columns on the arch? It would save time, and material if you removed the connecting structure. I don't see how it serves any useful purpose, except possibly to create a base to stabilize the vertical columns? Just a noob's observation, and question. Cheers!
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Post by jennifer on Jan 13, 2017 14:06:52 GMT
Do you need the connecting structure across the ground, between the vertical columns on the arch? It would save time, and material if you removed the connecting structure. I don't see how it serves any useful purpose, except possibly to create a base to stabilize the vertical columns? Just a noob's observation, and question. Cheers! Yes I need it. It makes the modular dungeon seamless looking. Also it covers up lots of empty space at times when two rounded cave tiles are butted up to each other. This archway is what really makes this system work well aesthetically Additionally, with the base, it allows you to connect a round cave tile to a 1 1/2" wide narrow passageway. If there was no base in the middle, then you couldn't place the archway half way onto the passageway.
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Post by jennifer on Jan 13, 2017 15:31:35 GMT
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Post by dragon722 on Jan 13, 2017 15:34:55 GMT
Looks Awesome and very clean
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Post by jennifer on Jan 13, 2017 15:43:25 GMT
Looks Awesome and very clean I like the roundness and randomness of this cavern tile system. So quick and easy to craft and to setup and tear down. I feel like I am in a cave more than say with the squareness of Hirst Arts / Dwarven forge cavern tile systems. I like that there are no walls (except for the few scatter terrain pieces here and there).. allows the players to see everything in the room/ cave. The archways really make this tile system work nicely Seamless.
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