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Post by curufin on Jul 30, 2015 2:55:51 GMT
This is a perfect example of why Wyloch's system is so ingenious. Unfortunately, I started the work on this over nine months ago. To keep the aesthetics the same throughout the module I had to keep the system I was using. This is the last level I have to do for this module then it's on to door and such.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Jul 30, 2015 18:18:02 GMT
just gotta keep it to the same size all the times. most of them uses 1=10 feet which is to them a single square is in fact 4 squares. in all cases you just gotta follow that size, otherwise you end up with skewed stuff. exemple... if wyloch was having half squares... aka only 2 mini squares he would be having his problems back. but then again he uses the lego route. he uses numerous blocks to create a room. but say you do a full tile and that tile is not following exactly the size you were supposed to. then you'll have problems.
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Post by curufin on Jul 31, 2015 2:16:20 GMT
just gotta keep it to the same size all the times. most of them uses 1=10 feet which is to them a single square is in fact 4 squares. in all cases you just gotta follow that size, otherwise you end up with skewed stuff. exemple... if wyloch was having half squares... aka only 2 mini squares he would be having his problems back. but then again he uses the lego route. he uses numerous blocks to create a room. but say you do a full tile and that tile is not following exactly the size you were supposed to. then you'll have problems. That isn't correct. The scale you use (1=10 or 1=5), and the rooms aren't the problem.... it's the walls that are the problem. D&D maps that appear in the back of modules are drawn with zero wall thickness. 2.5D tiles have a wall thickness. Any time you have two areas that share a common wall you are adding "space" to your map, where there was none in the published map. The only way to fix it is to make hallways longer or rooms smaller (sometimes both). Every time you add adjacent walls the problem propagates.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Jul 31, 2015 4:17:08 GMT
whatever man... i dont want to go back to this, just because i know everyone will be against me even though they fail to realise that a 0 thickness wall is actually a none existing wall. sorry but that black line has a thickness. but again i dont want to go back to that... im just gonna say this again.. as long as you keep to your size precisely, you can do pretty much everything.
to the authors post, again nice job, that map looks awesome and fun to play on.
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Post by Wyloch on Jul 31, 2015 12:23:47 GMT
... im just gonna say this again.. as long as you keep to your size precisely, you can do pretty much everything. Except re-create a map like Rahasia. You will need to make adjustments to the published map, as curufin pointed out. You cannot do it with a 1" = 5' scale. You can do it with a 1.25" = 5' scale. As always, this is not a big deal. When I look at this thread and the project's progress it still makes me green with envy. The fact that it's not a 100% absolute true reproduction of Rahasia doesn't really matter. It clearly meets the spirit and intent.
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Post by lordbryon on Aug 1, 2015 16:26:44 GMT
Well said Wyloch.
This thread got me interested in the Rahasia module as I'd never even heard of it prior to seeing these awesome builds. I was a relative late comer to D&D. I started my early years with the old West End Games Star Wars and FASA's Shadowrun, MechWarrior, and Earthdawn. Earthdawn being my only true fantasy experience until D&D 3rd edition came out. By that time I'd never even heard of these "old school" D&D modules, excepting those that they turned into video games like the Temple of Elemental Evil. Even in the 3rd and 3.5 days I stayed away from D&D favoring D20 modern and D20 Star Wars. Then D&D 4th edition came out and I got hooked real quick. 5th edition has become an obsession but I'm not a fan of the modules/super adventures for 5th so far.
The point of this is I downloaded the Rahasia PDF and I have found it to be a gem. I'm loving it. I've also downloaded a few other "old school" modules that I find equally entertaining. The Forest Oracle and Against the cult of the Reptile God. These adventures are in my opinion very well written and much more entertaining than the 4th and 5th edition modules put out. I'm working on converting them all for my current campaign. I hope my players enjoy them as much as I have.
Thanks for showing this old school gamer some of the glory of the old days and how awesome d&d must have been back in the AD&D age.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Aug 2, 2015 2:53:04 GMT
i could break it all down anyway... but since everyones do not care for me to do so... i just wont... that ad the fact im too tired to even do it...
rahasia looks like a fun module for sure, even more once all done like this.
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Post by Sleepy Hollow Mike on Aug 2, 2015 5:25:07 GMT
The whole dimension thing freaks me out man!Seriously I do not play D+D to think that hard! However I can see a beautiful piece of art that is a finely crafted dungeon and realize from bitter experience that maps lie! LOLOL The walls will do you in unless there is some sort of fail safe (like 1.25") to ensure compliance with a given map. I have long since switched to NEXT for its simplicity and to be honest I am a lazy sod and its just easier for me. Pally don't get discouraged remember Columbus got laughed at too! Thats some damn good company to be in!
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Post by birdskull on Aug 2, 2015 17:36:41 GMT
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Post by Sleepy Hollow Mike on Aug 2, 2015 18:15:09 GMT
Look just celebrating that he had the sack to look for something most people didnt understand. Not gonna get all drawn into what happened after he found something. That for the sake f this discussion is patently irrelevant.
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Post by Wyloch on Aug 2, 2015 19:03:43 GMT
Hey curufin I know cutting curved walls from cardboard is a royal PITA. Any tips for how yours are so clean?
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Post by curufin on Aug 2, 2015 20:06:22 GMT
Honestly, I just use a utility knife for most of them. I make several light passes and when I can start to see the cut on the backside, I flip it over and do a final pass on the underside. I use an xacto knife on small radius circles.
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Post by Sleepy Hollow Mike on Aug 2, 2015 22:45:25 GMT
Any tricks for MDF? I been using alot of elbow grease and a utility knife. I Know a saber saw would be ideal. Just wondering if there was another better cutting tool for it
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Post by Wyloch on Aug 3, 2015 0:49:42 GMT
MDF? I'd use a router. Do you do any woodworking on the side?
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Post by voodoo on Aug 3, 2015 1:13:29 GMT
Looks better everytime I check this thread out! I encourage everyone to check out all the old school mods. A lot of them are really great. Can't wait to see more updates to this thread. Cheers!
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Post by curufin on Aug 3, 2015 1:57:18 GMT
Any tricks for MDF? I been using alot of elbow grease and a utility knife. I Know a saber saw would be ideal. Just wondering if there was another better cutting tool for it MDF is a pain to do by hand and is rough on tools. A table saw would be best, but a chop saw, or circular saw or router would be next on the list.
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Post by kgstanley81 on Aug 3, 2015 2:17:20 GMT
Any tricks for MDF? I been using alot of elbow grease and a utility knife. I Know a saber saw would be ideal. Just wondering if there was another better cutting tool for it Jigsaw with the spyder blades, it has teeth on both sides for better turning radius
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Post by kgstanley81 on Aug 3, 2015 2:24:37 GMT
Awesome job on the whole thing
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Post by DnDPaladin on Aug 3, 2015 3:06:58 GMT
dont know for MDF, but for cardboard, the problem has never been to make circle, its how can you cut thru the corrugation without it breaking apart every cut. and i'd have to admit, taking it slowly by making smaller cuts solves most of that problem.
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Post by Sleepy Hollow Mike on Aug 3, 2015 6:33:02 GMT
Any tricks for MDF? I been using alot of elbow grease and a utility knife. I Know a saber saw would be ideal. Just wondering if there was another better cutting tool for it Jigsaw with the spyder blades, it has teeth on both sides for better turning radius THAT is exactly what I was looking for! Thanx
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