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Post by sgtslag on Feb 9, 2016 20:02:58 GMT
Solid, pure Lead is pretty safe to handle. It is the oxide forms that are dangerous. Lead paint contains a compound of Lead, with another chemical. The great Lead Scare of the 90's was a farce by the US Congress. It transformed our industry forever, in spite of it being mostly a lie. Cheers!
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Matt
Tool Gatherer
Posts: 76
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Post by Matt on Feb 9, 2016 20:32:09 GMT
The real contributor of lead in people's body was in leaded gasoline which was phased out in the 80s. And that wasn't pure lead but tetraethyl lead. And when it was in water from lead plumbing, it was the oxide form that was shedding off the inside of the pipes. Thankfully we've moved past both lead pipes and lead in fuel.
The only lead miniatures I would avoid would be corroded ones with whitish rust on them. Aside from the health risks, it also means the miniature is well, rusting away, and will be of really low quality (bad surface texture and weakened).
If you're really concerned you can wear latex/nitrile gloves and even a mask.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 10, 2016 0:23:18 GMT
Finished the Dice Tower Yard piece (except for the gate). Entirely made of toilet paper mache and 1 piece of 10x10 inch dollar tree foamboard (etched cobblestone). I'm liking how it looks so far. I need some advice though. I've never built a gate, let alone one that swings open and closed. I'd like to built a double door arched gate .. two gates that form one large arch. Probably like iron bars or something. I'd like for it to swing open and securely close so when dice hit it, they don't pop open. Any suggestions?
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Post by sgtslag on Feb 10, 2016 3:29:07 GMT
Use foamcoare: carve in the wood grain, paint brown, wash with black (The Dip/Magic Wash, or a paint wash), mount using DM Scotty's technique, as per his videos (toothpicks and straws for upright supports?), add in a lock (S-shaped cardboard, glued to doors, along with a cardboard 'bar', to drop in place). By the way, it looks superb... Cheers!
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Post by l7arkness on Feb 10, 2016 14:50:53 GMT
You would always use the gate as a simple 3d project to dip your toe into the modeling world
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Matt
Tool Gatherer
Posts: 76
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Post by Matt on Feb 10, 2016 17:17:57 GMT
Jennifer, what process did you go through to remove the mold lines from your knights and skeletons? Or did you just not bother because they weren't that bad?
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Post by jennifer on Feb 10, 2016 17:21:51 GMT
Jennifer, what process did you go through to remove the mold lines from your knights and skeletons? Or did you just not bother because they weren't that bad? I used various things. Sliced with a knife, scraped with a knife, used a tiny round file, used sandpaper glued to a craft stick that was split in half, etc. I am still figuring it out The moldlines are pretty bad on these miniatures so I did actively try to remove them.
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Matt
Tool Gatherer
Posts: 76
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Post by Matt on Feb 10, 2016 17:41:03 GMT
I used various things. Sliced with a knife, scraped with a knife, used a tiny round file, used sandpaper glued to a craft stick that was split in half, etc. I am still figuring it out The moldlines are pretty bad on these miniatures so I did actively try to remove them. I've been painting plastic figures like these for 15 years or so and I still haven't got it figured out. I was hoping you might have cracked the code. Right now I'm using 320 grit plastic sanding needles. They seem to generate the least "fuzzies" out of everything I've tried. If there's enough of a line that warrants it, I slice it off with a hobby knife first.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 11, 2016 7:25:02 GMT
Got my $300 Monoprice 3D printer today (thanks curufin, meph and the rest). This is the first miniature I've printed. It's a frog from thingiverse which was 75mm scale.. I reduced down to 40mm for use as a giant ice toad in Frostgrave. Next time I'll use supports when I print something like this.. the legs got messed up a little in this print because I had no supports. But, I can still fix this frog's legs eeasily with a little filing, sanding & modeling paste to make as good as new. I am really happy with this printer and love the detail of this frog. It was a 3D scan someone did of a frog they had in their garden. IT's on thingiverse under "Graden Toad".
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Post by jennifer on Feb 11, 2016 8:59:08 GMT
I couldn't wait -- painted the Ice Toad. Excuse my amateur paint job -- new to the hobby.
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Matt
Tool Gatherer
Posts: 76
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Post by Matt on Feb 11, 2016 9:22:22 GMT
Creepy frost toad!
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Post by DnDPaladin on Feb 11, 2016 9:48:33 GMT
sooo... in about 2 hours top, you printed a toad and a cube, which you painted already... did anyone tell you to stop drinking redbull... you're scaring the energizer bunny ! XD
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Post by jennifer on Feb 11, 2016 9:55:13 GMT
YOu don't like it? I love it heh
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Post by jennifer on Feb 11, 2016 9:56:37 GMT
sooo... in about 2 hours top, you printed a toad and a cube, which you painted already... did anyone tell you to stop drinking redbull... you're scaring the energizer bunny ! XD Also printed out an 8 bit (granular style) skull keychain for my nephew as well as one OpenForge tile. (Having a problem with the OpenForge tile.. was expecting it to be 2 inches square but came out to 1.85 inches square....
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Post by Meph on Feb 11, 2016 12:03:33 GMT
Oh that toad is awesome. Guess I am not buying Ice Toads.
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Post by Meph on Feb 11, 2016 12:45:46 GMT
Oh btw, did you prime that toad and if so, what color did you use? I have been priming all my pieces with the case of Krylon black plastic paint. It bonds well and has worked for me but I haven't tried painting one of these yet without priming it first. No idea how well craft paint adheres. Great job on your painting btw.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 11, 2016 13:35:59 GMT
Oh btw, did you prime that toad and if so, what color did you use? I have been priming all my pieces with the case of Krylon black plastic paint. It bonds well and has worked for me but I haven't tried painting one of these yet without priming it first. No idea how well craft paint adheres. Great job on your painting btw. I primed with Reaper white brush on primer. I was wondering too if i needed to prime since there was so much pourous surface for the paint to adhere to -- decided to play it safe.
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Post by Meph on Feb 11, 2016 13:45:51 GMT
I painted up my tiles last night. I primed them all with that Krylon black and then drybrushed my gray and added the beige. I think they came out great and I kept it simple so I can duplicate it on all future tiles without much deviance. I am painting my demon right now so we will see how it turns out. We are getting pounded with snow today. I am amazed that school wasn't cancelled. Either way I have no plans to go out in it so I think i'll get to work assembling my frostgrave Undead and Soldiers if the cement I bought works. I bought some Testors liquid model cement yesterday. I tried using it on this PLA and it wouldn't adhere at all. I will try it on one mini, if it doesn't work then I might get to painting the parts and assemble them later. dmscraft.proboards.com/thread/3651/mephs-gaming-terrain
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Post by l7arkness on Feb 11, 2016 14:19:59 GMT
My printer shipped yesterday and will arrive tomorrow which means i need to get my rasberrypi set up asap
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Matt
Tool Gatherer
Posts: 76
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Post by Matt on Feb 11, 2016 20:13:57 GMT
YOu don't like it? I love it heh No I love it. Creepy can be good when it comes to toads
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