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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2014 13:14:22 GMT
Hey guys I'm interested in molding and using resins for casting some of my items in the game that I need a lot of (garbage cans, benches, and the sorts). Just curious what you guys have had success with or possible links and materials for cheap. Feel free to post pictures as I'm interested in seeing the end results.
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Post by sgtslag on Oct 29, 2014 14:11:12 GMT
Resins are NOT cheap... For cheap, go with old automotive tire weights (aka, Lead). It is free, melts at around 700 F, and it has a long, successful history of drop casting within the miniatures hobby.
By the way, metallic lead is not dangerous, in spite of all the hype. It is lead oxides which are dangerous (lead paint contains an oxide, not metallic lead). The only real harm swallowing metallic lead will have, is the physical damage it will do to your digestive tract, as it (hopefully) passes through.
You should be able to find an electric smelting pot at a local hunting/fishing supplier. I found one, years ago, for around $35. It worked quite well with an electric heating element within the pot, and an insulated handle. I used it for drop-casting with Prince August fantasy figure molds. I still have a lot of those figures in my collection, including a Goblin Wolf Rider army (fully painted, used numerous times on the table). Cheers!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2014 15:47:29 GMT
I was looking into the two part molds on the hirst arts website and it seems simple enough. I'm curious to see how long the silicone rtv molds last though. We have to repair or make new molds all the time with this stuff at work. I have access to industrial potting and silicone rtvs though so ordering through my company at a discount is nice. Just want to order the right stuff before I invest too much money in a product not worth it.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2014 15:57:05 GMT
@rouseau I would like to see the video for sure! And what is the consistency of the silicone starch mixture? I want to use something easy to paint on for the deep textures, but still durable for maybe 50+ casts. And is this bulk silicone relatively cheap and where did you purchase it?
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Post by curufin on Oct 29, 2014 17:31:30 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2014 19:00:41 GMT
Thanks guys for the input! I think I'm going to pick up the silicone for the molds today and give it a shot. Now what can you use other than pewter, that will produce durable pieces that are reasonably priced? I was looking into plaster cement for sidewalk terrain possibly but what other materials are good to use? Also those are really good looking pieces curufin I'm going to for sure try that out when I scrounge up some materials like that.
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Post by adamantinedragon on Oct 29, 2014 22:50:58 GMT
Hey guys I'm interested in molding and using resins for casting some of my items in the game that I need a lot of (garbage cans, benches, and the sorts). Just curious what you guys have had success with or possible links and materials for cheap. Feel free to post pictures as I'm interested in seeing the end results. You've gotten a lot of excellent advice on molding and casting. Just to cover all the bases though, it should be pointed out that, especially for the items you listed, it is pretty easy to make a bunch of those things very easily with oven baked polymer clay, and not even deal with the cost of mold materials. Some of them are easy to make with craft sticks and glue as well. If you pursue the casting approach, you can make passable molds out of clay which can be re-used. Bruce Hirst has some mold making tips on his site. The most important thing to remember if you make molds is to leave enough of a margin so that the mold doesn't deform when you fill it with resin, plaster or, especially, molten metal. I think Bruce recommends at least a full quarter inch as minimum margin.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 30, 2014 12:43:40 GMT
So I went to ace and picked up some plaster of Paris, water putty, and silicone caulk. I made the first half of a figure mold and I made a brick tile mold with 2 different mixtures. The first was 4:1( still setting up) and the other is 1:1 ( almost fully set) . It went smooth and I'm excited to see the results after work!
Edit: Has anyone used the Durhams water putty? I was wondering if you can make the mixture watered down enough to inject through a bigger syringe, without deformations on detailed figures.
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Post by Erasmas on Oct 30, 2014 15:26:28 GMT
I think that's the stuff that Curufin used to make the sarcophagi covers in his Swinging Maiden entry for the CraftWar.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 30, 2014 16:35:38 GMT
I was looking at these that are made from it and it seemed to hold the detail on these little minis pretty well.
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Post by DnDPaladin on Oct 30, 2014 18:32:02 GMT
I really need to get going too, making my own molds with textures... seems cool !
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Post by Deleted on Oct 30, 2014 18:44:04 GMT
The initial cost for all those materials was under 30$. I can probably make about 10 molds hopefully if they are small pieces. And enough plaster and putty for several pieces. I'm hoping to at least have some pics posted up for you guys with the results of the brick tile. I still have to make the second half of the figure mold tonight! I also snagged a corner pipe piece, some small PC boards for blown computer insides, and some small strange shaped wire plastic caps( with the tabs cut off they look like turrets). Going to try making molds of these as well.
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Post by curufin on Oct 30, 2014 20:22:36 GMT
I think that's the stuff that Curufin used to make the sarcophagi covers in his Swinging Maiden entry for the CraftWar. It is. The trick with getting water putty to work when casting small high detailed things is to water it down. However, that makes it very brittle. Mix in equal parts water and PVA glue. This will help the final piece remain durable. I also recommend coating the final piece in PVA glue to protect it.
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Post by curufin on Nov 1, 2014 20:59:15 GMT
I have used XLS, T15, 30, and others with good results. They will all withstand 450-500 degrees F. Actually, I have never lost a mold to overheating. SmoothOn has a chart with max temp allowances. I usually go for the hi temp stuff, but I'm a little bit mad scientist when it comes to testing limits (especially if it is the only thing on hand). The trick is to coat the mold cavities with a dusting of baby powder. This acts as the mold release agent. I will also slightly protect the mold. Also, I de-mold the metal as soon as it solidifies, so I'm not putting extra wear (heat) on the molds.
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Post by pillpeddler on Nov 13, 2014 2:40:21 GMT
Does the baby powder leave a "gritty" texture on the finished product?
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on Nov 13, 2014 5:52:47 GMT
There's a decent how to overview on two parts with silicon and casting in resin from Tested.com
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Post by sgtslag on Nov 13, 2014 14:02:45 GMT
pillpeddler, no, it does not. The talcum/baby powder is a very small particulate. It leaves no indentations whatsoever. I made more than 100 drop-castings, using Prince August fantasy molds, years ago. I always used talcum powder as a mold release agent, without issue. You do, however, need to wash the figures to remove it prior to priming, and painting. Talcum powder works superbly as a mold release agent, and it is very inexpensive (I barely used 1/3 of a bottle of baby powder, casting 200+ figures, and 90% of what I used ended up as waste from over-spilling -- you don't need much, but it comes out rather quickly, unless you are very careful) -- it's so inexpensive, I never worried about wasting it. Cheers!
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Post by pillpeddler on Nov 20, 2014 22:53:15 GMT
sgtslag thank you hoss... got everything I need to cast ... except time lol
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moonwitchitty
Cardboard Collector
What is dead may never die!!
Posts: 26
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Post by moonwitchitty on Dec 10, 2014 1:35:49 GMT
I use cast resin for my molds, so far I haven't had to use mold release. But if you are worried that it will stick the craft stores have a spray mold release next to the silicone molds, clay, and candle supplies.
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