jaz
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 48
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Post by jaz on Sept 14, 2014 1:25:15 GMT
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Post by adamantinedragon on Sept 14, 2014 1:32:42 GMT
Nicely done jaz. I have two different modular dungeon sets, one using the Hirst field stone blocks, for a rough and rustic look, and another using the cut stone blocks for a more refined look. I tend to treat the cut stone elements as Dwarven construction in my games. In my own experience making the wall elements is fairly straightforward and interesting to do. Making enough large empty floor segments was always the challenge for me. I ended up making my own custom molds of large floor segments and casting them as a unit, which when cast with Hydrostone and treated with Future floor polish makes for a very strong piece.
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jaz
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 48
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Post by jaz on Sept 14, 2014 1:41:59 GMT
Nicely done jaz. I have two different modular dungeon sets, one using the Hirst field stone blocks, for a rough and rustic look, and another using the cut stone blocks for a more refined look. I tend to treat the cut stone elements as Dwarven construction in my games. In my own experience making the wall elements is fairly straightforward and interesting to do. Making enough large empty floor segments was always the challenge for me. I ended up making my own custom molds of large floor segments and casting them as a unit, which when cast with Hydrostone and treated with Future floor polish makes for a very strong piece. Thanks for the kind words! I want to get into mold making sometime soon. Perhaps after we get the holidays finished with. I use a spray sealer to seal my hirst arts after I paint them up. It is Rustoleum Matte Clear. It goes on thicker than the stuff you get in the art section but I like that it adds so much protection. I need to try Future on a project in the.... future.
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Post by adamantinedragon on Sept 14, 2014 1:53:31 GMT
jaz, I don't use the Future floor polish as a finishing. I dry my Hirst Arts blocks thoroughly (I have a dehydrator) and then before I do anything else with the blocks, I brush a few coats of Future on them, which soaks into the plaster and creates a sort of plastic "skin" which reduces chipping significantly. Then I assemble, base paint them and go from there. Update/Edit: Oops, I usually glue them together THEN do the Future step. The glue needs to soak into the blocks too.
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jaz
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 48
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Post by jaz on Sept 14, 2014 1:57:57 GMT
Ahh! Very cool idea. I will try that too. What do you use to seal/finish with?
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Post by adamantinedragon on Sept 14, 2014 2:31:50 GMT
I've used lots of different things over the years. I am currently using matte mod podge spray to seal most of my Hirst Arts after painting them. I've used other glazes and even some Minwax varnish/stain. The Mod Podge dries so much faster than anything else i've used, that it's become my go-to sealant.
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jaz
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 48
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Post by jaz on Sept 14, 2014 3:38:57 GMT
I used Minwax varnish first. I stopped after a while because it was paint on and it kept wiping my paint away as I was sealing it. Can you post some of your hirst arts stuff? Or have you already?
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Post by skunkape on Sept 15, 2014 19:40:40 GMT
I started making a Hirst Arts dungeon along the same lines that you did. I've only completed a couple of pieces because I've got to do more casting and don't really have the time to set up a casting area as I can't just leave that layout out like I can with other crafting stuff!
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Post by adamantinedragon on Sept 16, 2014 3:23:45 GMT
It is a challenge to mange the casting of blocks. I used to have a table dedicated to casting, but that was before I moved to this smaller house. Now I have to plan for casting activities and dedicate my gaming table to the effort for days at a time. So I understand the difficulty. Still, it's not so bad if you can set aside a couple days. When I'm in full-blown casting mode, I can cast four molds at a time and get them all poured, cured and de-molded in 30 minutes or so. So in an evening I can usually get four or five sets cast, and on a snowy weekend I can get a couple dozen. As a result I've got bins full of blocks that I've not yet turned into anything yet. To make a modular dungeon set requires some dedicated casting. If you try to just do a few molds here and there, you'll always be frustrated with a lack of blocks. Because it takes a TON of blocks to make any significant amount of modular elements. It's easier to start with a small piece of terrain, like a bridge or a hut or even a small room. My first two Hirst efforts were the fieldstone bridge and the 4" cut stone wizard tower. Each of those took like 20 individual castings of one mold. My modular dungeon sets took probably fifty or more individual mold castings. One of the issues with Hirst molds is that you always need a lot of a few specific blocks, and that tends to creates a lot of extra blocks that pile up. Over time you learn to just cast parts of molds just so you don't have piles of unpainted blocks that will never get used. Once you know which of those blocks you always need, keep those molds handy so that you can use any excess plaster to fill just those blocks in that mold. I have posted some of my Hirst work on the site, but much more on my own blog site rpgobsessed.wordpress.com. Look under the "terrain" category to find some examples, but you'll probably have to scroll a bit.
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jaz
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 48
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Post by jaz on Sept 16, 2014 20:02:06 GMT
I started making a Hirst Arts dungeon along the same lines that you did. I've only completed a couple of pieces because I've got to do more casting and don't really have the time to set up a casting area as I can't just leave that layout out like I can with other crafting stuff! I'm with you on that. I have a dedicated crafting area but to do HA cast it take a lot of time and space. But when I do set it up I kill some hydrostone so I have a large stack of blocks to feed to my muses.
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jaz
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 48
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Post by jaz on Sept 16, 2014 20:08:53 GMT
It is a challenge to mange the casting of blocks. I used to have a table dedicated to casting, but that was before I moved to this smaller house. Now I have to plan for casting activities and dedicate my gaming table to the effort for days at a time. So I understand the difficulty. Still, it's not so bad if you can set aside a couple days. When I'm in full-blown casting mode, I can cast four molds at a time and get them all poured, cured and de-molded in 30 minutes or so. So in an evening I can usually get four or five sets cast, and on a snowy weekend I can get a couple dozen. As a result I've got bins full of blocks that I've not yet turned into anything yet. To make a modular dungeon set requires some dedicated casting. If you try to just do a few molds here and there, you'll always be frustrated with a lack of blocks. Because it takes a TON of blocks to make any significant amount of modular elements. It's easier to start with a small piece of terrain, like a bridge or a hut or even a small room. My first two Hirst efforts were the fieldstone bridge and the 4" cut stone wizard tower. Each of those took like 20 individual castings of one mold. My modular dungeon sets took probably fifty or more individual mold castings. One of the issues with Hirst molds is that you always need a lot of a few specific blocks, and that tends to creates a lot of extra blocks that pile up. Over time you learn to just cast parts of molds just so you don't have piles of unpainted blocks that will never get used. Once you know which of those blocks you always need, keep those molds handy so that you can use any excess plaster to fill just those blocks in that mold. I have posted some of my Hirst work on the site, but much more on my own blog site rpgobsessed.wordpress.com. Look under the "terrain" category to find some examples, but you'll probably have to scroll a bit. I looked at youre site and wow. Its quite impressive. I really like the idea of making molds out of sculpey. I'm going to try that. Maybe tonight. I really want the 4'' tower mold so I can use it to make curved wall sections for my modular dungeon. I read about how you had a rough time choosing the layout of your modular HA dungeon. I too had a hard time and eventually just started putting stuff together dry fit style. I went with the traditional Dwarven Forge 2''x2'' foot print for my rooms. Then I did a 3''x3'' foot print on my halls. I recently made my 1'' wide hallways and they are 2''x3''. It is very difficult to pick a single layout that all fits together perfectly. I guess thats why so many people enjoy 2.5d. Its easy to make things fit because all you need is a pair of scissors or a knife to get it to go together. I just like the strength, weight and overall look of 3D terrain.
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