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Post by sgtslag on Oct 26, 2023 15:37:43 GMT
I really like the blue-on-blue, on the mushrooms in the last photo, bottom right corner area. Fantastic, as always. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Oct 19, 2023 14:36:17 GMT
If you want/need affordable, true 25mm fantasy figures, Red Box has some new sets out, for very affordable prices! SOUTHERN KINGDOM WARRIORS RANGERS & SCOUTS Set #1: 25mm not-LOTR Rangers, armed with bows, and swords; 48 figures, at $0.29USD per figure, delivered to a US address, from Ukraine. Review here. These figures have molded-in-place weapons. Alliance Southern Kingdom Warriors 2: Heavy Cavalry, Plate Mail riders, some horses have Plate Barding, some have Chain Mail Barding, others have no Barding. 12 Riders and Mounts for $1.36USD/rider & mount, 25mm tall riders. Review here. These figures have various weapons which slide into their hands: swords, axes, and lances. Windy Bay Warriors (set 1) Heavy Cavalry (12 figures): Plate Mail Riders, same horses, as above. 12 Riders and Mounts for $1.36USD/rider & mount, 25mm tall riders. These figures have various weapons which slide into their hands: flails, swords, and lances. Review here. Nice sets. I've used automotive spray can gray primer, followed by acrylic paint, on many Red Box Alliance sets of figures. They paint up just like metal and resin miniatures do. The sculpting is very good. When glued to an MDF base, with texturing applied, they are superb for wargames and for RPG sessions, alike. These are among the most affordable miniatures on the market, today. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Oct 10, 2023 17:24:08 GMT
I did an Internet search on, "skeleton dragon," to see just what I could find. I was surprised at just how many exist, currently, on the market! They have a wide price range, and quality for gamers, varies, as well. Here are some links to what I found: 1. 36" Dragon Skeleton Halloween Decoration, $62.98, from Oriental Trading. Large, but the details are seriously lacking for its size. 2. Crazy Bonez Large Skeleton Dragon (Draco-Lich #1), $24.99, on Amazon. It is 24" W x 16" L x 10" T. It is available in a few color schemes, beside bond: gold, and Oil Slick (multi-color black), but these are also slightly smaller in size. 3. 2+ foot Dragon Skeleton, $95.99, on Amazon. This thing lacks detail, but it is h-u-g-e, standing 27.2" T! Too big, really, even for an Ancient Great Wyrm, in 2e AD&D rules. 4. Ashland 13”; Dragon Skeleton (Draco-Lich 2.0), $16.78, on Amazon; also available at Michaels. It is 11.81" L x 13.2" W x 5.31" T. 5. Gothic Dragon Skeleton Statue, $46.90, on Amazon. It is 5" x 7.5" x 7", with some remnants of skin stretched between its wing ribs; its neck also appears to be covered in flesh, as it is much more than neck vertebrae; the skull also appears to have flesh covering most of it. This one could be painted up in any desired color, with plenty of flesh still attached to it, in the front, at least. 6. Crazy Bonez Light Up Skeleton Gargoyle, $14.99, on Amazon. It is 7 x 10 x 9.5 inches, with blue LED eyes that light up. 7. Animated Majestic Dragon Skeleton, $59.99, on Halloween Costumes. It is 36" L by 10" W by 27" T. Activated by sound: red eyes flash, jaw moves up/down; poseable. 8. Dragon Skeleton, 7.5", $6.99, at At Home. This is 4.0" L x 7.5" H x 7.5" W. It's jaw is fixed, not moveable; it has molded flesh covering each wing, but it is otherwise just bone. 9. Halloween Dragon Skeleton, $129.99, at Wal-Mart. Size: 49" long from snout to tail tip and 36" high from wing tip to foot. Low in detail, big. Very big. Let's compare all of these to a legitimate, Pathfinder gaming miniature: Pathfinder Battles Deep Cuts - Gargantuan Skeletal Dragon, $32.00, on Amazon. If you read the customer reviews of the Pathfinder Draco-Lich model, you will see that many complain about it being too brittle! Many have had it break, requiring a glue job, to repair. Note that the non-gaming figures listed above, are all made of plastic. The three I have looked at, and handled, were all made of some durable plastic -- breaking them would require some effort! Dropping them three feet, onto a concrete floor, is not likely to break them! Also, I find the sculpting of the plastic Halloween decorations to be better, in many cases than the Pathfinder gaming model. Prices are all over the map! Here is a Google Search for Skeleton Dragon, showing gaming miniatures, as well as many examples, posted above, with really different prices being offered! It pays to shop around. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Oct 9, 2023 2:38:31 GMT
This is likely made by the same company. It looks a great deal like Draco-Lich 1.0. This Draco-Lich 3.0 ' decoration' is between 24-30 inches long! In true 1/72 scale, where one inch equals 6 feet, this model is 144 scale feet to 180 scale feet long! For 2e AD&D, this is in the ballpark for an Ancient Great Wyrm! It will require that the screw holes be filled in, with White E6000 Glue, or some other filler (spackle?). Once the holes are filled in, the model can be washed, preferably with a dark brown paint, or urethane stain. The wings can be covered with white paper, stained, or painted, an appropriate color. If you use just the brown wash, you can then press this monstrous model into service as a Draco-Lich of any type needed (the wings are faded, after centuries of un-life). The tail of this model, is bendable, and posable. Where can you find this Draco-Lich? Jo-Ann Fabrics stores! If you are lucky, you might find it on sale, or you may find a coupon to reduce the price. The price tag shows that they realize they have a marketable 'decoration', which likely will attract an audience beyond just Halloween fans! This Draco-Lich model clocks in at $39.99USD! Looking at fantasy model figures, this is still a sweetheart model! This thing is HUGE! The wings are hinged, like Draco-Lich 2.0, however their range of motion is more limited. This is a massive beast! The jaws are hinged. The model is entirely bone, except for the ears, behind the eye sockets. I would recommend painting these to model leathery, mummified skin. My Draco-Lich 2.0 is still a work-in-progress. I now have two such Drago-Lich models in my collection. I can't justify a third model, and with its humongous size, it would be a stretch to incorporate it into my 2e AD&D RPG games, as well as my 2e BattleSystem games. It is rare to find such a large dragon model, which accurately demonstrates the 2e Dragon sizes of an Ancient Great Wyrm! I still hope to run a Council of Wyrms RPG, with PC Dragons. This is really the only way that I could justify getting this model. If you have a desire for a huge Draco-Lich model, this is the largest I've found yet. To be honest, anything bigger would be too big for the 25mm-32mm figure scale for such a model. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Sept 29, 2023 15:57:51 GMT
Thread necromancy: raising this thread, and this project, from the dead! I finally finished my Styrofoam ball- Beholder Prototype -- after seven years... Photo1 Face on. Photo2 From slightly below, an upshot, showing a bit of the mouth carved into it. Photo3 Comparison photo showing a 28mm D&D pre-painted miniature, to give an idea of its size and scale. I took fuzzy brown, pipe cleaners, glued googly eyes from Michaels Craft Stores to the ends, stuck them into the ball's surface, to create 10 eye stalks. I found colored pupil, googly eyes, at Michaels, as well -- I used these for the central, large eye. I applied Hot Glue to the surface, to create the raised, divisions segmenting the body into different portions. I painted the Hot Glue portions black, the body surface an orangish-color. I applied Royal Walnut Minwax Polyshades urethane stain over the whole body, to seal, stain, and wash it. I Hot Glued a wooden dowel to a 50mm MDF square base, using the same Hot Glue to attach the ball to the top of the dowel. I used a Hot Wire Wand to cut out a mouth into the surface of the ball. I painted the inside of the mouth red. I skipped the teeth, as to me, these are often overdone, and distracting from the rest of the model. If I do add teeth to the models (I have around 10 of them, in process), I will use the sharpened ends of toothpicks, but I will keep them very short, to keep them subtle. the base is textured by painting Wood Glue onto its surface, then swirling it in a mixture of 2-3 green colors of sand, with model RR ballast mixed in, as rocks. Will it win any contests? No... Was it fun to make? YES!
To be honest, it reminds me of a Sesame Street Muppet. "Kermit, the frog , here... AAAaaaggghhh--" ZAP!
" Mmm... Frog legs!" It makes me laugh, frequently. I suspect it will make others laugh, as well. It is decidedly based on 1e AD&D, and that is by design. I love the 1e version the most. The 1e Monster Manual drawing is comical, to me, and I think I captured at least some of that humor in my models. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Sept 24, 2023 18:42:20 GMT
Very nice space ships! What game are they for? Where did you get the models?
I bought some really inexpensive plastic toy space ships off of Amazon, several years ago. I painted a bunch up for a table decoration for the carpenter I was working with at the time, who made custom gaming tables. They were my usual block painting + The Dip Technique. They were OK, to me, but a customer criticized them, offering me his Star Wars (factory painted) models to display on the tables. I swallowed my pride and accepted his offer.
Your painting is far better than mine. Thanks for sharing your work, It gives me some ideas on how to improve my space ships, after I strip them, and re-prime them.
Anyway, are you a Full Thrust space ship battle fan, or something else? Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Sept 24, 2023 17:55:13 GMT
Making progress: screw holes, and skeletal gaps filled in with E6000 White Glue, head wings painted, whole thing Dip'ed with the first coat. Frontal view, side 1, side 2, rear, 3/4 view. The leathery wings will be next. I will apply the second coat of Royal Walnut urethane stain after the wings are applied, with an application of white E6000 Glue to the top surface of the wings to model the underlying bones. After that cures fully, a matte clear coat, with model being glued to an MDF base. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Aug 31, 2023 17:45:50 GMT
Some shots of the new, Draco-Lich 2.0. Internal Ribs, showing more screws holding it together than the 1.0 version, due to its movable wings -- these will all be covered with White E6000 Glue, to mask them; Facial shot, showing its serious underbite (LOL); Side-by-side comparison of 1.0 and 2.0, atop a 1"-grid; Size comparison with a Schleich Red Dragon on its left, and a Mage Knight Red Dragon on its right, on a 1"-grid; Family portrait with everyone together -- right before things got out of hand/claw… As the facial shot shows, this Draco-lich has nice sinus structure. It is well sculpted. The ear wings, prominently displayed in the facial shot, will be painted Red, and aged, to represent what's left of its skin and ears. I could not locate my construction paper, but I did find our AstroBrights paper of varying colors. I took a sample of each of five colors to test. I applied the three colors of Polyurethane Stains that I have on hand, to see how each worked, and how they affected the paper, when dried. Here are the samples, with oil-based Minwax Royal Walnut, lightest color on the left, water/ether-based Rustoleum Kona in the middle, and water/ether-based Minwax Antique Walnut, darker on the right. Dk. Blue, backlit; Lt. Blue, backlit, and lighted from the front, on a dark tabletop; Dk. Green, backlit; Lt. Green, backlit; Dk. Red, backlit. The oil-based, Royal Walnut is the most transparent of the three urethane stains, when applied to the papers. It also creates the least texture in the finished paper, making it the most bland. The Kona is more dark brown, while the Antique Walnut is medium brown to the point of covering up most of the paper's color. I like the Kona the best on the Red paper, which is what I will finish the Draco-Lich with, so Kona and Red paper it is. The Kona is what I used on Draco-Lich #1, and I like how the wing textures came out on that cardstock paper, so that answers that question. Having that settled, I can progress with tightening, and sealing all of the screw holes with White E6000 Glue. After that cures, I can paint the ear wings, Red. Then I will begin clothing its wings with Red Paper, followed by Kona Urethane Stain application to the wings, and to the whole of the body. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Aug 29, 2023 13:38:31 GMT
I pulled the trigger last night: I bought the new version of the Skeletal Dragon, from Michael's
I have this new Draco-Lich pegged as either a Green, or a Red Dragon. I hope to apply some Minwax Polyshades urethane stain to some pieces of green and red Construction Paper, tonight, to see how it looks and feels, when dry. Alternatively, I can use the same cardstock weight paper I used on the first Draco-Lich, by dyeing it with food coloring, or Kool-Aid mix (commonly used for dying yarn and other textile fibers).
I will not attempt to clothe the body with mummified skin -- too challenging to achieve a decent-looking result. I will let the wings speak to what type of Dragon it was, in life.
I've been thinking about how to use them in a 2e BattleSystem game... I will deploy them as Army Commanders, with Vampire Captains serving them. The Draco-Liches will need to either attack at night, or create a dark, stormy sky, to protect their Captains.
If the Armies of the Living field Goblins and/or Orcs, this will aid them, as well. I've got plenty of armies to put out, plenty of table space, plenty of players to join me in the such a game. What I lack, is free time to run it! GRRRrrr!...
I'll update this thread as the new project progresses. Hopefully, progress will be much faster this time around, as I know what works, and how to do it, properly, the first time. LOL! Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Aug 28, 2023 18:32:05 GMT
This one is gnawing at me. The idea of using colored construction paper for the wings, really has me thinking about how it might look... The horns suggest Red (Green?) Dragon, over any other breed. I like the idea of dark, red/green colored, leathery wing skin partially covering the wings. Problem is, I already have one, generic, any-breed-I-need, Draco Lich. If I build a 2nd Draco-Lich, I will be sorely tempted to put them both into play, both in my RPG, and within some 2e BattleSystem games, and they would be major (anti-)Heroes, worth oodles of points within their armies, so it is hard to justify that... It is sooo tempting, though, from a crafting/modeling perspective. Money is not the issue, at <$15 for the model. I feel a journey to Michael's Crafting store is imminent. Stay tuned, Draco-Lich fans... Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Aug 25, 2023 19:56:49 GMT
I visited Michaels Craft Store a few days ago. I checked out their Halloween Decorations, to see if there was anything of interest... New Draco Lich figure: different sculpt; different pose; movable wings and lower jaw; legs might be movable. They had a 20%(?) off, sale going on: $16.99 x 0.8 = $13.59, for a very large Draco-Lich model: raw Photo1, raw Photo2, raw Photo3. I passed, as I have my first one (different style, but similar size -- see links below). Still, the new model is very tempting. The screw holes, and the divisions between the body halves, can easily be filled in with White E6000 Glue. Cut out, and glue on, paper wings, painted with Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain -- Royal Walnut, to create aged leather bits of wings, then paint the same Minwax on the whole, and you would have a nice, unique gaming model, unavailable anywhere in your version of it. For more details on how to convert this new model, check out my previous post on a Halloween Skeletal Dragon found at big box store. A photo of my original, raw, unconverted, and a photo of the finished, converted, and based model ready for the tabletop. Here is a link to an album showing all of the previous project's photos. Note also, that the white paper wings can first be painted/dyed any color you wish (use colored construction paper if you like), before turning them into aged leather, with a heavy application of Minwax Polyshades urethane stain... Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Aug 8, 2023 18:18:07 GMT
I am sure many forum members have seen numerous examples of Air Elemental miniatures. over the past 40 years. They usually are sculpted as some form of cyclone, made out of hard plastic or metal/resin. My idea is to make them out of cotton fiber filler, or cotton balls. Years ago, circa 1999, I made some pillow stuffing smoke clouds for my Army Men games. i took the filler material, pulling it into billowing masses, to form an outline for a smoke cloud, as used by military forces to mask the enemy's ability to see, and target, them (Smoke Shells and Smoke Grenades!). I sprayed the cottony mass with black spray paint, and it created a grayish cloud, of varying darkness, creating natural shading, all with the press of a spray can nozzle. I also used these to mark blown up Tanks and other vehicles -- this is a common, well-known technique for tabletop war games modeling I realized, today, that that same technique could be applied to pillow stuffing/cotton balls, glued to a substrate, creating a cloud-like body for an Air Elemental. I will admit it may be limited to use for larger specimens, say 16-24 HD monsters, being 4-6+ inches tall. Still, it should be easy to make. Hold onto your hats, folks, I realized this could be a fun, Board Member Challenge, like in the days of old, here on DM Scotty's crafting board! - Cut out a substrate in a vaguely humanoid shape, with a head, arms, and body dwindling down to a narrow base.
- Spray paint the cottony materials with black spray paint(?), from a distance, to impart variegated gray shading to the cotton material.
- Use either pillow stuffing (very bulky, harder to work with, on smaller sized models), or cotton balls, pulled out, and tufted into more spindly ball shapes, more airy; glue these to the substrate, completely covering it, so that the substrate is invisible. Make sure the figure is rounded -- it can be circular, like a whirlwind, but it need not be; heck you could make two versions of it: whirlwind cyclone, and an Elemental at rest, just clouding around...
- Mount the finished figure to a decorated base of 50mm-60mm diameter, round or square.
- Share photos of your entire modeling adventure, right here, to share with your crafty friends!
Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Aug 8, 2023 17:30:33 GMT
I left my ET job for an IT job, in 1990. The Surface Mount Devices (SMD's) killed those ET jobs in 1991: it became far cheaper to buy a replacement board, than it was to repair the failed board. At my previous employer, 40 Technicians lost their jobs, as the whole 3rd Party Repair Service industry went under at the same time. Re-working SMD circuit boards is nigh impossible: in 1989, my employer bought a $10k (in 1989 Dollars) SMD Rework Station, and I was asked to learn it... Could not be done: too small, too fiddly, too hard to unsolder/re-solder, using only hot air, and solder paste, in very tight areas. I've been in IT since 1990. I miss my ET job. It was very rewarding, and I was very good at it. It was not as repetitive as you imagine it to be. There was sufficient variety in what I did for it to be fun and interesting, as well as very rewarding to take something broken, and make it work again, for 90+ days -- my warranty period, upon which I was graded: 5% rate at Tech Level 1; 2.5% rate, as a Tech Level 2; never made it to Tech Level 3, 1.5% rate. I dodged a massive bullet by getting out before the whole industry collapsed. I was curious whether a spray varnish would set the iron oxide in place, without moving it. Wife and I took a natural dyeing class, years ago. Iron Oxide is a mordant (colored dye fixator, preventing the dye from washing out of the fiber materials, which for us, was wool yarns) for natural fibers and fabrics. My Wife knits and weaves; I enjoyed the dyeing process as it reminded me of childhood books I had read: The Mad Scientists' Club. The class discussed putting nails into a bucket of water, for a week, to make the mordant solution. Never thought to use steel wool, to make it even faster. Learned something I can use outside of tabletop game crafting! Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Aug 7, 2023 17:58:17 GMT
Finished 69 figures, this weekend. Had a few Units of Hill Dwarves, thus completing my Hill Dwarf Army (I have a separate, larger, Mountain Dwarf Army, with Ram Cavalry). These are the Purple Hammer X-bowmen. The figure set features black powder muskets, which I use as X-bows -- need to find a way to give the muskets a cross bar to add to the barrel ends, to make them look more like a X-bow... They have corresponding Infantrymen Units, as well: the Ram's Head Unit. Finished some Human mercenaries I began working on, around 15+ years ago. Finished every last one of the spearmen, and the bowmen, creating a new Unit. Colored their shields different colors, to form different Units: Red, Blue, Green, Yellow, and Mauve Purple. I have corresponding Unit flags for each (not necessary per the rules, but a nice visual touch). I finished the last of my Orc Archers, so they are ready to join their Infantry Units. Gruumsh is proud. At arm's length, upon the tabletop, they look great. I view them at arm's length, more than 98% of the time, so I paint for the 98th percentile. In a mass battle, they look fantastic. My painting queue is diminishing, but I still have a long way to go to see all of my in-progress miniatures completed. This weekend's work took a sizable bite out of the unpainted queue... Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Aug 7, 2023 17:34:22 GMT
Love the Windows OS background image on the monitor -- a real blast from the past, which I remember very well.
I spent three and one-half years working as a Component Level Electronic Technician, replacing diodes, transistors, IC's, capacitors, transformers, etc. I repaired a line of some of the early color mainframe terminals, back in the mid-1980's, and those screens bring back a lot of memories -- very reminiscent of that period's technology. I appreciate the heatsinks on the back of the cabinet -- not lost on me, I slathered thermal pastes onto many a power transistor, microprocessor, etc.
For the rust, did you paint the iron-oxide solution onto the model, then clear coat to seal it in place? Very nice work, superb rendition of sci-fi loosely based on the 1980's technology. Takes me back to one of my professional golden eras. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Aug 4, 2023 18:26:26 GMT
Did a count of miniatures which are very near completion -- hoping to finish them, this weekend, schedule permitting:
45 Hill Dwarves 7 Orc Short Bowmen 16 Human Longbowmen -------------------- 68 total figures
There is much to be said in favor of the assembly line painting technique, with regards to production and throughput. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Aug 2, 2023 4:13:02 GMT
Played a Jedi Mind Trick on myself, tonight: I slopped Olive Green paint over the entire Orc Catapult Crew figures, 3-4 figures per Catapult, times eight Catapults. They've been staring me down for a couple of years. Around two years ago, I painted the Catapults, decorated the bases with colored sand, along with piles of rock ammunition (there is an Orc sitting on a few of the ammo piles, telling the others how to do it -- well, that's what I tell myself, looking at his hand gesture).
I just couldn't go after the Orcs... Until now.
There are four poses, each with a lot of detail. Seeing them entirely green, broke the stalemate. I can finish them, now.
The anvil is still hot. Still hammering with my paints and brushes. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jul 30, 2023 3:12:58 GMT
Finished a lot of miniatures today (79?), including the matte clear coat. Some of these have been in the paint queue for 20 years (hangs head in shame). Some were purchased within the last two years. (Lifts head up, " YAY!!!"). I remembered that I had a purple/mauve banner (the stout Xth Legion of the Steark Mercenary Order), so I shifted colors to match their flag. Need to paint a red plastic straw, black, and then glue it to a single figure's stand (the flag banner is on a wire, it slots into the straw tube, when the Unit is on the table), then they can march with their banner, with pride. [Oops! Just saw in the photo that two Spearmen need face paint, yet... " Grrr!"] 10th Legion Steark Order Human WarriorsFinished the last 16 Goblin Worg Riders, with numerous command figures. That completes my Goblin Army, around 220-230 figures? They breed like rabbits, so it's hard to keep track -- their mortality rate fluctuates wildly, as well. Last batch of Goblin Worg RidersFinished one group of Orc Short Bowmen. Taking a Short Bow to a Long Bow fight is akin to taking a knife to a gun fight... They need to breed like rabbits, as well! Orc Shortbowmen (aka, Fodder for Grumsh's undead army in Hell...)
The white dowel in the back left corner of the base is covered with a colored plastic tube bead, to show which stands belong to which Unit, in my 2e BattleSystem games. I also plan to paint the edges of the bases with Hunter Green paint, to make them blend into the tabletop's green indoor/outdoor carpet covering: fast, easy, works well enough. I am in the painting mood... The anvil is HOT! Gotta strike! Gotta keep striking, before it cools and I lose the drive... Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jul 25, 2023 2:39:41 GMT
Update: Photos of Continental Shelves, and land masses, painted, along with the first layer for the mountain ranges. Cegia and Bakretia Isles, where my main campaign has been based since I first drew the map, in 1983. The Northern Pole is the point junction, above Cegia (the size of the Continental USA, for scale reference). Kee's Hand, where I will base my next campaign: a group of large and small islands is actually the ideal locale for any FRPG to use as a starting base. From here, I can go anywhere: land, sea surface, or the depths of the sea, for an underwater campaign... Talk about the world being your oyster! This is why I added a layer of craft foam, beneath the land masses, to show the Continental Shelves, for future gaming ideas beneath the water surfaces. ( Dream big, Baby, or stay on the porch!) Larger land masses Group #1, never been given any thought, yet; a second large land mass, more virgin territory, never any details beyond the land mass shape, until now. Sauria, land of the Dragons (Eur-Asia sized continent), which has been visited by my current group, a few times -- very different than what they are accustomed to, no Mages (Dragons kill them ASAP, as they pose a genuine threat to their kind, and they like being the top of the Food Chain, unchallenged by any non-Dragons...). The Southern pole is located on the point, at the bottom of the photo, below Sauria, so the southern portion the land mass is likely tundra, or even ant-arctic. Cegia/Ilses of Bakretia are the land masses on the top left of the d20 Globe, North of Sauria, in the last photo. In this photo, the Tropic of Humanis cuts through Bakretia, in the Northern Hemisphere, with Sauria in the Southern Hemisphere, where the Equator cuts through the middle of the ocean between them, while the Tropic of Draconis cuts across the norther portion of Sauria. The ocean gap between Cegia/Isles of Bakretia, and Sauria, are vast. Only a few Dragons have managed the crossing, to make a home in the Northern Hemisphere. The lesser races barely know what a true Dragon is. In 2e AD&D, Ancient Great Wyrm Dragons are virtually demi-gods, so this is a nice way to keep them under control: keep them far enough away to not dominate the traditional game world adventuring area, but close enough to have access to them, when/if needed. Hoping to find some hobby time in the evenings this week, to work on this some more. More updates to follow, whenever. Cheers!
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Post by sgtslag on Jul 21, 2023 14:49:30 GMT
Thank you, margaret. Nice detective work. I thought that I had posted it, years ago. Upon further consideration, I realized that once I curve the substrate, I won't have enough access to apply Hot Glue to texture the inner curved surface... I will be leaving it fully upright, no forward curve, similar to the Fire Elemental, as curving it is unnecessary and difficult. Cheers!
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