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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 8, 2014 17:35:34 GMT
Well, Milton.... If perhaps an over abundance of the aforementioned beads should rain down upon your domicile again during the coming Mardi Gras season, please be kind and remember all of your wonderful, awesome, inspirational and motivational friends here on the DMsCraft Forums who sadly do not have access to the wonders that those of the Krewe of Thoth deign to rain down upon your humble abode (In other words, lol, save some and share some with us, lol ) =) Please!?!I will endeavor to do my best.
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 8, 2014 16:31:00 GMT
As promised here are the tight shots of the pieces where I used a fine brush and light sponge to paint in the veining. I think the technique works out (but I need to get more consistent.) The downside is that doing a large piece (like the tile) would be an insane amount of work. Cheers, MM Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedAttachment Deleted
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 8, 2014 15:53:12 GMT
I'll second the metal ruler. They are a must of you use X-acto or box knives to cut cardboard. Wooden rulers tend to have soft metal for edges, which are great for pencils or pens, but a razor blade will cut into them. Secondly take several passes over the cardboard. It's easier on you and the chance of slipping is reduced. Watch your fingers, those blades are very sharp! Thanks thorswulf! I didn't know that about the wood+metal rulers. I rarely use it since I invested in a 12 inch and 36 inch all metal rulers. I have had the metal strip come off the wood which is annoying. All metal rulers are more expensive, but highly recommended because they are worth it. Also great point about using an X-acto or box knife. I'll also add that then your blade gets dull, don't hesitate to change it. I used to use blades way past their edge had been dulled and it causes more problems than its worth (and it makes it more dangerous because you have to use more pressure so one slip can cause a bigger problem! Safety first always.) Cheers, MM
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 8, 2014 14:46:38 GMT
I was always that kid in class who, when trying to cut a straight line, somehow ended up with a JLO booty curve instead. And that was on paper. I haven't improved. As my current project (Bunker/bomb shelter for a nWoD game) has already caused me many different problems, I'd like to find a relatively cheap/free way to cut all these little tiny inner walls (I don't want to go wider than 1/4" to keep SOME semblance of scale) Is there a trick to cutting cardboard that I'm not familiar with? Is there something easier to use that will still be recognizable as walls? I also have two different types of doors to represent- normal indoor doors and big thick metal blast doors. I have no idea how to represent these in a 2d way. I thought about making the blast doors (Four in total) 3D, but not sure how I'd get them to stay up in the foamcore base I'm using. I think the headache of switching between 1 in = 5 feet to 1 in = 1 yard has my brains all fried Hi Koneko! I recommend getting a metal ruler or a wooden ruler that has a metal strip along the edge to use as a guide.. When making the cut, instead of making one big deep cut, make a *very* light cut to score the top paper then make several more cuts along the scoring with more pressure each time. As the saying goes, measure twice cut once. Before you make the cut, take a pencil and mark out where you'll be cutting (using the rulers.) Then measure it again and go back over the mark with a darker pen. Then make your cut. It also helps to draw out your floor plan before you start so you have a good picture of all the walls, doors, and fiddly bits that will make up your piece. Not sure I understand about scale. As for the doors, there is a DMScotty vid about doors that you might find useful. Finally, remember it's just cardboard and that cardboard if infinitely available. Give it a go and post pictures if you'd like feedback. Cheers, MM
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 8, 2014 14:31:34 GMT
Great job on the temple and usage of beads. I wish I could get ahold of those sarcophogi beads, they're awesome! For the marble effect...well, I don't know what process you're using exactly, but two suggestions I would put out there are to consider shades of pink to be used in conjunction with white. Don't mix them, just use different colors for the veins. You could even use gold, lined in some places with the white to replicate an effect of ores threaded into the marble. The other suggestion is to use curved veins, as if you're painting a crack onto a stone. I think it adds a ton of antiquitous opulence that you made it all one piece, instead of painting in a tile pattern to break up the marble slab. Makes me want to create something like this of my own... Thanks onethatwas! I appreciate the suggestions on the floor. There is some pink in there, but the camera didn't pick it up well (and besides that I just flat sponged it on instead of "veining".) I like the idea of gold. There are also some curved veins. Over all I think the main things I'll try changing are the color options you suggest in addition to reducing the amount of veins and making them finer. I changed up the veining technique on the broken colument and the Thoth piece. I'll post a close up of that when I get a chance today as a comparision.
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 8, 2014 14:26:48 GMT
Very, very cool. Nice work. I think the floor looks great, but I understand what you are saying about "scaling up" textures. If you find a source for those beads, let us know! PS: where'd you get Thoth? Very cool! Thanks wilmanric! I also think it looks OK but I have this picture in my head and it doesn't match. The Thoth emblem and other fiddly bits came from a Mardi Gras bead I picked up in the gutter by my house. I live in New Orleans and the Krewe of Thoth, a Mardi Gras parade, goes right by my house. They throw these things by the dozens to parade goers. These particular ones are custom ordered for the Krewe of Thoth so they cannot be bought off the shelf. I'll make sure to take a short vid of the parade this year so you can see the crafting swag raining down. This is the original bead (I'd already painted the medallion part of it.) Attachment Deleted
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 8, 2014 2:09:28 GMT
My first vid!
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 7, 2014 16:59:59 GMT
These are very cool wilmanric. Good eye for craft fodder!
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 7, 2014 16:48:32 GMT
I just may do a tutorial or two closer to Halloween. It can be expensive one trick I do is go to the Halloween stores just after Halloween and stock up on quarts. It's a lot cheaper after Halloween but as far as how much I'm not sure till I try it. Thanks for that tip dmj! Seasonal discounts are always good to know about. Regards, MM
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 7, 2014 16:00:24 GMT
As far as mask latex it's far better than even latex cault so I know that would be great and tp might be ok I've use those two to make scar effects or zombie skin on make up jobs. So having done the cave tiles using tp and glue I figured liquid latex and tp would make a good flexible mat. I've never used mask latex (or any liquid latex product for that matter) but I've no doubt that liquid mask latex is a better product. I just presumed that mask latex is (probably) more expensive than the latex caulk method (3-4 tubes of latex and a good amount of canvas from a fabric store should be less than $15.) That said, I hope you'll post results if you run a test. Always looking for new and different ways to do things! How expensive is the mask latex that you use and how much do you think you'd need to make, say, a 3 by 3 mat? By the way, if you ever want to post a tutorial for mask making or using mask latex for the make up jobs you mentioned I'd be very interested to see that! Cheers, MM
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 7, 2014 14:32:33 GMT
Welcome healer4hire! You've started a grand, crafting adventure.
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 7, 2014 14:23:51 GMT
That's what I understand too sgtslag. If this darn cold, wet weather would stop I'd like to give this a go. One of my found objects a few months back was a 4 foot wide roll of canvas.
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 7, 2014 14:21:56 GMT
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 6, 2014 22:07:15 GMT
They have a nice selection on their site. I presume (looking around their site) that the pieces are not pre-painted and the painter(s) who did the display pieces did a great job.
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 6, 2014 21:38:02 GMT
With antimagic fields positioned just above the point where the dimension door takes effect. No activating boots of levitation for you person-who-fell for it.
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 6, 2014 18:04:56 GMT
I wonder if you could use mask latex and tp to make a rollable battle mat or would the tp make it rigid. Not sure about using TP but there's a a vid about making a battle mat from canvas and latex caulk which looks pretty nice. www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/491376.page
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 6, 2014 13:51:03 GMT
I'm with @aj. Rayguns! I'd say maybe use a few to craft for the gaming table but the lions share use to create wild and wonderful ray guns or other steampunk-ish accessories. You might even consider shopping some out to Etsy and making a few bucks.
Cheers, MM
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 5, 2014 22:03:30 GMT
Store minis? Come again say what now? I suppose I store them on the dining room table The dining table? Too small, I'd have to heap them on. And I'm sure as hell that the ones I need are always hiding at the heap's center. Add to that retrieval dilemma the presence of my not-quite-two-year-old son and you'll see that the dining table variant s not working for me. I'm thinking about magnetising all their bases - and then painting my flat's walls with magnetic paint. That would give me some additional storage area... You could also line your walls with attracting metal. It will have the additional benefit of keeping out the alien signals.
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 5, 2014 21:24:10 GMT
Right on grym247. Thanks for the showing the barrels step-by-step too. Really helped!
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Post by miltonmurphy on Jan 4, 2014 15:48:46 GMT
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