wrr377
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 13
|
Post by wrr377 on Jan 24, 2017 3:19:35 GMT
Since I do not have the time, or patience (yay, ADHD) to build the cardboard columns featured in Scotty's vids, I thought of a faster, easier (albeit more costly) way to create semi-detailed columns. Materials used were 3/4 inch wide wooden spools / thread bobbins obtained for under $2 for a bag of 20 (with 50% off coupon at Micheal's), and a few containers of 3/4 inch wooden plugs obtained from a local hardware store chain (more costly @ $2 for 8/pkg). I simply hot-glued one of the plugs to each end of the bobbins, and I had instant columns. Only problem is that the columns are only about 1 to 1.5 inches in total height, meaning they are about to scale with an average 25mm human-sized miniature... Oh well, sacrifices. The first picture is of the raw materials, the second is of the assembled piece, with a D&D 3e 25mm miniature for comparison: imgur.com/wIHoM1timgur.com/znJ2yehI've since grey-bombed them with primer (I want them to be more neutrally undercoated), but otherwise, that's all there is to them. Thoughts?
|
|
|
Post by bluecloud2k2 on Jan 24, 2017 12:44:10 GMT
Traditional White Marble pillars: - Base Coat Pewter Gray
- With WET sponge, apply 75% covering of 1 Part Pewter Gray, 2 Parts Sky blue. Be sure to get in the crevices with 75% cover.
- Wet sponge apply: 50% covering Dolphin Gray
- Wet Spong: Apply 25% covering White.
- Using a thin wet brush and a mix of 1 part sky blue 1 part dolphin gray, paint some cracks
- using thin wet brush and mix of 1 part pewter gray 1 part sky blue, paint some shadow just below your cracks
- Wash with thinned black
- Edge with dolphin gray.
Optional: Between Steps 1 and 2, apply 50% covering bark brown. Between steps 3 and 4 apply 25% covering tan
Sandstone pillars:
Texture coat with 1 part PVA 1 Part Fine Crafting Sand 3 Parts Bark Brown
- Base Coat with 1 Part PVA 3 Parts Bark Brown
- Heavy Dry brush with bright yellow.
- Before it dries, moderately dry brush with dolphin gray
- Before THAT dries, lightly dry brush with beige.
- AFTER the whole thing is dry, give it a tan wash.
|
|
sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
|
Post by sotf on Jan 27, 2017 23:29:36 GMT
Another option for a good look would be to find a good pic of marble and use it to clad the larger flat sections of the spools while painting up the rest in gold before gluing the marble sections in place, then give the entire thing a gloss coat.
|
|
|
Post by sgtslag on Feb 1, 2017 17:38:09 GMT
What I used for columns, was a wooden dowel. I like your base and crown ideas for the columns, though. I will be looking for such in the near future. Like sotf suggested, I also used a printed 'skin' over a wooden dowel. It was for a battering ram model. The original design was for cardstock only, but I used a wooden dowel, instead of making an octagon shaft of cardstock. The dowel was painted with PVA Glue, then I applied the paper printout, wrapping it tightly around the dowel. It worked exceptionally well, and it meant very little painting was necessarry (just the exposed end of the shaft). A paper skin can look fantastic, and they are an incredible time/effort saver. Never be afraid to combine different techniques, or mediums, to a single project. Cheers!
|
|
sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
|
Post by sotf on Feb 1, 2017 20:26:26 GMT
What I used for columns, was a wooden dowel. I like your base and crown ideas for the columns, though. I will be looking for such in the near future. Like sotf suggested, I also used a printed 'skin' over a wooden dowel. It was for a battering ram model. The original design was for cardstock only, but I used a wooden dowel, instead of making an octagon shaft of cardstock. The dowel was painted with PVA Glue, then I applied the paper printout, wrapping it tightly around the dowel. It worked exceptionally well, and it meant very little painting was necessarry (just the exposed end of the shaft). A paper skin can look fantastic, and they are an incredible time/effort saver. Never be afraid to combine different techniques, or mediums, to a single project. Cheers! Only major suggestion to up from there is that pva is probably not quite the best option for it, a glue stick would probably work better for a smoother end look.
|
|
|
Post by bluecloud2k2 on Feb 2, 2017 12:14:10 GMT
Loc-tite Gel also works great.
|
|
sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
|
Post by sotf on Feb 3, 2017 3:08:24 GMT
Loc-tite Gel also works great. The problem with it is that a lot of the liquid and gel glues are very difficult to have a smooth result with paper. This is especially true when you're wrapping it so you don't have an easy way to expel any excess for it. You also run the risks of the glue soaking into the paper and causing ink bleeding...which never ends well. However, the gel is perfect for attaching the wood parts together or other things, just that with a paper piece you want a smooth end to is not so good.
|
|
|
Post by bluecloud2k2 on Feb 3, 2017 11:29:19 GMT
I've found three small dots along one edge of the paper where you attach it to the object getting covered, and another three dots along the opposing edge when you are done wrapping it works fairly well.
|
|