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Post by wilmanric on May 11, 2016 16:40:59 GMT
Despite the fact that I have a 3D printer, I still love molding and making things. I'm considering getting some Hirst Arts molds.
In your experience, what are the best, most versatile molds for Fantasy and Sci-Fi?
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Post by Deleted on May 11, 2016 18:03:02 GMT
All of them! Lol. In my opinion if you're looking for versatility, the basic block mold and curve pieces to start. Then check out the others like roof molds and such. I like the pipes as well but they might not fit a fantasy setting. Same for the fieldstone, not exactly Sci-fi. Whatever you decide, you cant beat the quality or detail.
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Post by DnDPaladin on May 11, 2016 18:42:21 GMT
buy what you need, not what you think is cool ! once you bought everything you need, you can start adding the fluff that looks cool ! i'd go with anything that has floor and walls for sci-fi first and then add a few accessories into it.
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on May 11, 2016 21:44:14 GMT
A lot of it depends upon what you want to have as a theme. Things like the Gothic or Fieldstone ones, because you want to have a starting point for getting more of them.
I would also suggest starting with one of the project ones for that theme, such as one of the tower molds or similar so that you have something to start with to try it out.
However, if you're getting them to make tiles, start with one of the tile molds for the size you want.
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Post by adamantinedragon on May 11, 2016 23:44:36 GMT
For whatever it's worth, I would recommend a matched set of floor, straight walls and curved walls. Whether that's cut stone or fieldstone doesn't really matter, but if you want to build something significant, like a tower or a bridge, it will generally turn out more finished looking with matching tiles.
If you have enough cash, I would get a set of fieldstone and a set of cut stone. That way you can create terrain that provides obvious clues to the players about their location and what they might run into.
Having said that, if I had it to do over again, I might start with the accessory, furniture and door molds. Those tend to be amazingly versatile and really help improve the 3D feel of the terrain without requiring massive build efforts. Those are generally more difficult molds to master though. In general I get a lot more use out of my accessories, furniture and doors than I get out of towers, bridges and streets.
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Post by justicechest on May 12, 2016 12:20:25 GMT
I bought my first molds last month. It's definitely a matter of taste, but for me, I would say it's hard to go wrong with the fieldstone stuff. I got the fieldstone blocks and fieldstone ruins. With that I can make a ton of stuff. Fieldstone wall mold, and some curved stuff would be good, but I elected to get those later. For a floor mold, I got large cobblestones. That's really a taste thing. I wanted gridless, and liked the large over the small cobblestones. And I'm enjoying the cavern accessory and unique inn accessory molds - lots of stuff like barrels and chests that are a pain to make by hand.
There are several other very nice ones I wanted to get, but ordering from Canada eventually put a hard limit on what I could get at one time heh. Exchange rates...
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Post by wilmanric on May 12, 2016 14:03:53 GMT
A lot of it depends upon what you want to have as a theme. Things like the Gothic or Fieldstone ones, because you want to have a starting point for getting more of them. I would also suggest starting with one of the project ones for that theme, such as one of the tower molds or similar so that you have something to start with to try it out. However, if you're getting them to make tiles, start with one of the tile molds for the size you want. I'm thinking Gothic -- I'd think that would work for Frostgrave AND Warhammer 40k.
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on May 12, 2016 17:29:14 GMT
A lot of it depends upon what you want to have as a theme. Things like the Gothic or Fieldstone ones, because you want to have a starting point for getting more of them. I would also suggest starting with one of the project ones for that theme, such as one of the tower molds or similar so that you have something to start with to try it out. However, if you're getting them to make tiles, start with one of the tile molds for the size you want. I'm thinking Gothic -- I'd think that would work for Frostgrave AND Warhammer 40k. The Tomb Mold is one the better starting points as it's self contained and the parts can be used for other things as well. It also means that you can get used to things and decide if you want to keep using it or not. The basic blocks are another good one to get early on, and that plus ones like the church, octagonal tower, or bell tower are great ones as well.
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Post by berghoff on May 13, 2016 13:11:11 GMT
Here's a version of the ruined tower. It's a cornucopia of versatility as long as you like round, which I do. The new rubble molds are also looking quite interesting.
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Post by wilmanric on May 15, 2016 18:37:05 GMT
Here's a version of the ruined tower. It's a cornucopia of versatility as long as you like round, which I do. The new rubble molds are also looking quite interesting. Really nice. This might just be the one! Thanks!
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Post by skunkape on May 16, 2016 17:10:13 GMT
I've only bought the fantasy ones. A friend of mine bought the sci-fi ones, which he ended up giving to me. At the very minimum, I would suggest a floor mold, and a wall mold. That way, you can build rooms. If you have enough to buy more, consider one or more of the accessory molds, that way you can make things like casks, or desks, etc. I have like 20 myself all told.
Most importantly, make sure you get a stronger plaster than just plaster of paris, some kind of hydra-stone or dental plaster is best. Not only will is set up faster, it will be much stronger and you'll have better results with it.
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Post by wilmanric on May 18, 2016 1:31:37 GMT
Most importantly, make sure you get a stronger plaster than just plaster of paris, some kind of hydra-stone or dental plaster is best. Not only will is set up faster, it will be much stronger and you'll have better results with it. I've been using this with good results -- DURHAM'S ROCK HARD WATER PUTTY®
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Post by skunkape on May 18, 2016 13:19:50 GMT
Wilmanric, you've mentioned that before in your posts, haven't you?
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Taley
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 7
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Post by Taley on May 18, 2016 16:11:25 GMT
I use Durham's Water Putty for patching Hirst Arts pieces. It sculpts pretty nice. However, instead of just mixing water with it I mix about half glue and half water, which gives it adhesion and it doesn't run out of the surface I'm applying it to. Then after 5 minutes, it's just hard enough to sculpt with tools. But with casting you probably wouldn't want adhesion.
Don't know if that helps, but that is what I do with it.
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on May 19, 2016 0:31:02 GMT
I use Durham's Water Putty for patching Hirst Arts pieces. It sculpts pretty nice. However, instead of just mixing water with it I mix about half glue and half water, which gives it adhesion and it doesn't run out of the surface I'm applying it to. Then after 5 minutes, it's just hard enough to sculpt with tools. But with casting you probably wouldn't want adhesion. Don't know if that helps, but that is what I do with it. Using a bit of glue is still a good idea for casting gaming tiles, it leaves you with a more solid piece in the end. Adhesion isn't really an issue in the hirst arts molds because they're silicone
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Post by adamantinedragon on May 19, 2016 2:20:46 GMT
My experience with adding glue to my hydrostone to make it stronger has been mostly a failure. I think it's because the curing process is a chemical reaction that is hampered by the glue. What I have found is that once you cure the hydrostone, and it is fully dried out, a brushed on layer of acrylic product like Future floor polish (you gotta get the right stuff) creates a hard, chip-resistant "skin" where the acrylic soaks into the block and seals up and strengthens the pores. I've got stuff I've made with blocks treated that way that has lasted for years without a chip. Including my dice tower, which gets some fairly heavy use when I'm in a game.
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Post by wilmanric on May 20, 2016 3:30:06 GMT
Wilmanric, you've mentioned that before in your posts, haven't you? The putty? Yes. I get it at Lowes. $7ish for a big can. I've gotten quite good at mixing it to the right consistency in my kitchen.
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Post by wilmanric on May 20, 2016 3:30:47 GMT
My experience with adding glue to my hydrostone to make it stronger has been mostly a failure. I think it's because the curing process is a chemical reaction that is hampered by the glue. What I have found is that once you cure the hydrostone, and it is fully dried out, a brushed on layer of acrylic product like Future floor polish (you gotta get the right stuff) creates a hard, chip-resistant "skin" where the acrylic soaks into the block and seals up and strengthens the pores. I've got stuff I've made with blocks treated that way that has lasted for years without a chip. Including my dice tower, which gets some fairly heavy use when I'm in a game. I will try this. Thank you!
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Post by mirithol on May 23, 2016 1:44:55 GMT
Must have Mold #58 Common Inn Accessories. Why? - because everyone needs a good bar! Most of these items you could craft yourself. Our crew is fond of the fieldstone set, but that's thematic of where we adventure. Thanks to all for the hardening tips.
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Post by berghoff on May 24, 2016 1:18:40 GMT
Wilmanric, you've mentioned that before in your posts, haven't you? The putty? Yes. I get it at Lowes. $7ish for a big can. I've gotten quite good at mixing it to the right consistency in my kitchen. I had to give up on that stuff. I liked it until I discovered Merlin's Magic and haven't looked back. With shipping I get it for about $80 for a 50lb box making it cheaper than durhams /lb. I think it also takes paint better.
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