baugi
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 4
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Post by baugi on Sept 8, 2014 4:37:06 GMT
Hello! New to the boards, new to crafting, and new to DMing, actually. I'm mostly a mini painter, but I'm starting a game with Dungeon World soon, and was looking at my options for tile sets. Everything looked insanely expensive, so I turned to DIY stuff. I was going to go with full carved pink foam tiles, but then stumbled on the 2.5D style and I'm convinced.
Now, my issue and my question.
As previously stated, I paint minis. I also enjoy custom basing my minis, and I often tend to use the 30mm Warmachine/Hordes style bases, because they tend to look the nicest. Of course this means that most of my minis can't stand 2 abreast in a standard-measure 2.5d narrow hallway. Has anyone come up against this, and if so, what are your workarounds? I could simply increase the measurements for all tiles, but that would throw off the actual measurements for gaming as well. I could simply hand-wave the issue and say "well, these guys are diagonally oriented, but they're actually next to each other" but that ... doesn't sit right, somehow.
Has anyone else had this issue? Are there a set of suggested alternate measurements for dealing with inflated base sizes?
Thanks in advance!
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Post by DMScotty on Sept 8, 2014 5:28:11 GMT
Hello baugi and welcome to the Craft. If you use my 2.5D NEXT system you will never have to worry about that problem.
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Post by thedmg on Sept 8, 2014 11:23:51 GMT
You can simply make my standard square size 7.5cm instead of 6.5cm. Keep the walls 7mm. You should have no problem if you are not using a grid. Through most of my videos I refer to the standard square so it will all work out.
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DM Michael
Paint Manipulator
Preparing for 'In the spider's web' part of LMOP
Posts: 169
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Post by DM Michael on Sept 8, 2014 12:40:01 GMT
Even though I use a 3D dungeons and most of the bases are only 20 or 25 mm, I have experienced similar problems. Many models have swords or spears sticking out. Large models are particular "pointy". My corridors are are not 50mm across but somewhere between 55 and 60mm, to allow for wide models in the corridors.
There are two solutions for your problem: 1 either make the grid 30x30 mm 2 or make your grid 25x25 mm and add some extra unused space on the sides along the corridors, and then accept that the models are somewhat larger.
Try making two corridors, one with each method. Then see what happens when you stuff 10 or more models in the corridors. If you make small gridded corridor 15 or 30 cm long, and you decide to go for option 1, you only need to repaint the corridor. Then it will just be 1 or 2 squares shorter.
I would probably go for option 1.
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robagd
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 137
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Post by robagd on Sept 8, 2014 13:51:13 GMT
I went up a bit in size with mine. As I use a lot of HeroClix/Mage Knight figures with the rather large bases.
You just make 1 sq = 5ft and the size of the square doesn't matter. I have an up coming encounter where the standard 1" sq will equal 20ft because I want the scale for effect of large area combat.
-R
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baugi
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 4
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Post by baugi on Sept 8, 2014 16:31:04 GMT
Wonderful suggestions guys! I do plan to do several pieces in the Next style, but I'd like to have a reusable modular "stone" dungeon as well (a la DMG). I think the 7.5cm thing is how I will go for that! Now, re: Next, I don't have fabrics, but I do have texture spray in 2 colours, sand, and tons of basing flock stuff. I was thinking grey stone, brown earth/sand, and grassy outdoors should cover most needs? I think 2 or 3 large sections in each, and then a variety of set pieces and props should be sufficient, no? I've got 2 little boys, so no end of double layered corrugated diaper boxes!
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Post by dungeonmistress on Sept 8, 2014 17:47:43 GMT
I am building the full 80 peice "DMG" set and I will be making the Next system walls modifying the mat idea somewhat, and using the flexible modular cave walls as mentioned here . So, to my mind, I will end up with the best of both worlds.
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Post by thedmg on Sept 8, 2014 23:08:48 GMT
There can be ONLY Juan, I mean one!
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Post by dungeonmistress on Sept 9, 2014 17:54:12 GMT
Now we know thedmg's true idenity! He Jet Li's special effects make up artist, Juan Sanchez Antonio Domingaz Smith!
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Post by Cyan Wisp on Sept 9, 2014 18:57:34 GMT
I like lots of space. Space for crafted features and room to manoeuvre your minis.
So...I made my DMG set with 8cmx8cm sections and 1cm walls, giving me 3cm x3cm "squares" for characters. Two fit comfortably abreast in a 10' corridor. It is actually more space per character than this for bigger rooms as there are fewer walls - unbounded 8x8 sections yield 4cmx4cm for characters. As long as you're consistent, I can't see that it really matters. I don't think dungeon makers worked to industry standard measurements.
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on Sept 12, 2014 17:22:33 GMT
I've kind of been doing the same thing with basing...I like the lipped bases because of the ease in basing it provides where it also keeps some of the more interesting options from interfering with play.
Of course, I still use grids as well, but I've found that one and a 1/4 in tends to work well for consistency in those and keeps it close enough that terrain features done elsewhere still fit well without looking out of scale.
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