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Post by runningwolf on Mar 10, 2014 1:24:00 GMT
You don't need special mini paint?
So my box of minis either got lost in one of the last two moves or has gone Elvis in my spare room, I fear the former. My next round of work got delayed for 8 days instead of starting money (ouch for the pay check but yippy for free time). So going over to Erie to see my g/f, her oldest son will be home so we're going to hang out for a bit and then head out and about. One of the places I want to stop at is a FLGS (Friendly Local Gaming Store) that has minis. See above about missing a week of work, most likely will just be picking one or two minis so I can get some scale right for some projects. Now being who I am I can't just leave the mini bare based neddkid like that. It will need paint. I've already got a decent amount of craft paint. If I thin it down a bit can I actually get good results? If I was 20 years younger I would just go ahead and do it. Being older (and hopefully somewhat wiser) I'll ask the masters for some tips to make it work.
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Post by adamantinedragon on Mar 10, 2014 1:30:58 GMT
Runningwolf, Of course you can get "good results" with craft store paints, depending on your definition of "good results." If you are painting for competition or for display, I'd say you might want the supposed higher density and finer grain of pigments in the expensive paints. If you are like me and just want to paint well enough for personal satisfaction and game play, then craft paints are probably more than adequate.
When my paint skills outstrip my paints I'll let people here know. So far the craft paints I use (mostly from Michaels or Hobby Lobby) are still more than adequate for my skills.
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Post by runningwolf on Mar 10, 2014 1:46:33 GMT
Back in the day I was using Testor's enamel hand getting bad results (mostly cause I didn't know squat about painting). Yeah I'll just be using them for gaming, not like I am going to be making a stop action Clash of the Titans If my old lost were any indication "good results" means having it look like it wasn't painted by stones teenager or 5 year old
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Post by adamantinedragon on Mar 10, 2014 1:56:44 GMT
Well, that sort of meets my own standards there wolf. I've got literally hundreds of minis I've painted with a three or four color approach with a light drybrush and then a dip, and they are perfectly playable. For me.
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Post by runningwolf on Mar 10, 2014 2:21:53 GMT
Hehe, like I said mostly what I have painted has been has been houses and it is a very different style than minis or dungeon tiles. On the facebook page someone said that the type of hot glue they use will glow in black light . Gave me two ideas for my sci fi deck tiles. One is using the hot glue, and the other is painting (normal or "neon) lines down the corridors. You dungeon dwellers can go all fancy with your stone textures and I was trying to think up a way to jazz up my tiles I've watched a few vids on painting minis (back in my day we didn't have the interwebs and UZtubes! - said in my best old fart voice). A lot of it makes so much more sense to me. With the nicer weather coming up, and the roads not being icy death traps going to try to see if the one shop in Erie would be up for a once or twice a month game session. Show off some DM Scotty inspired 2.5d decks tiles.
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Post by adamantinedragon on Mar 10, 2014 3:36:36 GMT
I painted my last mini literally at the beginning of our campaign session. I had purchased a Reaper Bones figure but had neglected to paint it, and since we were playing at my house I thought I might have time to do a quick paint job before the other players showed up. As it happened, the GM showed up early and by the time I got back to the table, most of the rest of the group was there. But we had one late holdout, so in the fifteen or so minutes before he showed up, I quickly painted my mini, using flat black as a primer/base, then some dark green for the pants, some brown for the leather bits and a darker brown for the cloak, finally finishing up with some skin tone on the exposed flesh. No time for eyes or eyebrows or other details, but it worked OK, considering. I just need to spend another half hour or so "polishing" it up and then sealing it. If that doesn't give an idea about my painting, nothing will.
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Post by runningwolf on Mar 10, 2014 11:26:04 GMT
Thought that the videos might help others... If I pulled an ut oh by having them in them on the wrong board I am sorry. Some places are free wheeling and some are full of rules lawyers.
This one was good for explaining the two main style of realistic and comic.
This guy was good for basic brush technique and on how to get some highlights by following the contours on the mini.
The style your shooting for and the brush techniques used make a world of difference. Bob Ross, Vincent vanGogh, and Paulus Potter have different styles and I would say very different brush techniques and effects.
I have set my expectations low for myself so I will hopefully not be disappointed. I'm not much of a comic books nerd but I am expecting it to turn out like a Snoopy but hope it will turn out like a Watchman or X-Men.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2014 21:50:47 GMT
I use Mini paint for my Minis and Craft paint for my terrain. Sure you can use craft paint on minis but I wouldn't, I wouldn't use testors either. But it all depends on how you want your mini to look. For me its all about the painting of the figure, for others its about the game. If you want a great looking mini with little effort buy the good stuff (Citadel, P3, Vallejo, Reaper, Army Painter). There is a reason I pay more for my paint and its not because I like burning through cash. But if you just want to paint it up go for it with some craft paint as long as the end result makes you happy.
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Post by runningwolf on Mar 10, 2014 22:21:21 GMT
The shop I went to in Erie had some scratch and dent used Heroclix stuff for 50 cents each. Picked a bunch of them and two packs of metal mini (one Reaper and the other a 3 pack from WarHammer). Some of the comic books ones I will retouch with some paint... Right now just need them getting some scaling right. Even at 50 cents each I could have dropped about $50 and come home with enough to make an army Eat, than plaint, then pics.
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odinist
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 105
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Post by odinist on Mar 12, 2014 21:07:01 GMT
I use Mini paint for my Minis and Craft paint for my terrain. Sure you can use craft paint on minis but I wouldn't, I wouldn't use testors either. But it all depends on how you want your mini to look. For me its all about the painting of the figure, for others its about the game. If you want a great looking mini with little effort buy the good stuff (Citadel, P3, Vallejo, Reaper, Army Painter). There is a reason I pay more for my paint and its not because I like burning through cash. But if you just want to paint it up go for it with some craft paint as long as the end result makes you happy. Testors (or any kind of enamel like that) is definitely a bad idea. Craft paint, however, is totally okay to use; I think it works just fine:
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2014 21:58:10 GMT
That came out pretty well. What brand are you using?
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odinist
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 105
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Post by odinist on Mar 12, 2014 22:01:03 GMT
That came out pretty well. What brand are you using? Mostly Apple Barrel and Folk Art. Cheeeeap.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2014 22:56:20 GMT
I like to think I am a pretty free wheeling and go with the flow sort of Moderator.. anyway, I mostly keep track of threads by using the New Posts master list, I figure if someone has an issue they feel strongly about, they can just message me.. otherwise, I delete double posts, help with posted images, give advice, run the craft war, etc.
As for paint, I use craft store, cheap, acrylic paints for everything I do, I avoid spray paint and enamel/spirit based paint because I don't like the fumes and prefer to do all my crafting either watching shows on my PC or with my feet up in my crafting storage room. Plus, its all just a matter of knowing your material, lots of practice, watching tutorials and constanting trying to one up yourself.. you could make a masterpiece out of mud... eventually.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2014 23:16:58 GMT
I have to agree AJ. I use the mini paints personally, but I learned I wasn't thinning the craft paint enough to get good results. Once you get the right consistency, it will all fall into place.
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Post by runningwolf on Mar 13, 2014 0:54:22 GMT
I have four metal minis and something like 12-14 of the heroclix. I have two doubles of the heroclix and figure best to start getting back into the mini painting on the ones I only paid 50 cents for.
I know I picked up two of a female figure and two SHIELD Agents. Starting off by personalizing them from the stock one would be the best bet. I'm going to do the stranded scrub with toothbrush, mild soap and water just because I don't know if anyone was touching them before with cheeto covered fingers. Better to always do it and waste the time than get 3/4 of the way done painting one and finding out it had a greasy thumb print I didn't see.
Also thank ya'll for putting up with me! Newbe with tons of questions.
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Post by sgtslag on Mar 19, 2014 22:27:16 GMT
If you want to prime without aerosols, get some Artist's Gesso: black, white, or gray are available at art supply stores. It is acrylic/water-based. It goes on thick, but it shrinks as it dries -- look for pinholes which need to be touched up. Craft paints adhere to it perfectly. It is a little more cash, but the advantages make it worthwhile, IMO. It will work on any type of mini: metal, resin, or plastic. Cheers!
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Post by bloodchoke on Mar 20, 2014 4:42:01 GMT
I use both mini paints and craft paints, but only because I can't afford a full set of mini paints. To me, they're just much easier to work with. They flow better, thin easier, and I think, leave a smoother surface. I have some craft paints that work perfectly well, and others that are horrible. It seems to vary not only by brand, but also by color. My advice, and I'm a noob so take it how you will, is to get a bottle or two and just compare them on your own. If you use the Hobby Lobby 40% off coupon, you can get Vallejo model color for around $2 a bottle. I always try to use mini paint for base coats, and if I have to, use craft paints for small areas. I personally think the benefits of the mini paints are worth it, especially for new painters since they tend to go on better and thin easier.
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