valas
Room Planner
I'm being twisted, on the sideway down.
Posts: 459
|
Post by valas on Dec 21, 2013 23:29:22 GMT
Hello!
Once again I come seeking the wisdom of this forum. I am attempting to finish out this adventure with some 3 D terrain. It was going very well until I realized that 2 part epoxy resin gets very hot as it hardens which in turn horribly twisted my xenos holding tank. Oddly enough, it didn't melt that carniflex pieces in the resin, just the clear plastic container I had it in.
Some I am seeking a medium that I can "color" with a wash, and wont melt that clear plastic "tank" I am placing the xenos parts into to be examined. Any suggestions?
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 22, 2013 18:23:51 GMT
Window sealer.
|
|
valas
Room Planner
I'm being twisted, on the sideway down.
Posts: 459
|
Post by valas on Dec 22, 2013 21:28:25 GMT
Not sure what window sealer is, but I found a slow curing clear resin that does not get as hot.
|
|
|
Post by sgtslag on Dec 27, 2013 19:55:21 GMT
"Window sealer" is acrylic, paintable, caulking. It can be purchased at local hardware stores, or DIY stores (Home Depot, Menards, Mills Fleet Farm, etc.). There is a Loctite brand, which is paintable, air dries, goes on white, but cures to a clear color; it is rubbery, when cured, won't rot, or fall apart, for around 25 years! It comes in caulk-gun type tubes, so you will need a caulk gun to use it easily. It is around $4-$5 a tube, if I remember what I paid for it, two weeks ago, and the 'gun' will set you back around $3-$5 for a cheap one. Look for them in the painting department area. It can be used as a glue, so be careful when it is wet. It has a lot of terrain-making applications (road sections, river sections, water for ponds/lakes/fountains/etc.). It can take days, or longer, to cure, depending on room temperature and thickness. Cheers!
|
|
|
Post by pedrodevaca on Dec 27, 2013 20:33:37 GMT
Sgtslag,
Out of curiosity, can you explain your road building application for acrylic caulk?
|
|
valas
Room Planner
I'm being twisted, on the sideway down.
Posts: 459
|
Post by valas on Dec 27, 2013 23:54:24 GMT
Ahh, okay. Its what I use to make my waterfalls. I ended using a product that takes 24 hours to cure, a two part epoxy resin. I used a wash to color it. I found it at wallmart for 8 dollars. It worked perfectly as it didn't warp my plastic tube. I'll post some pics when I finish.
|
|
|
Post by sgtslag on Dec 29, 2013 0:50:50 GMT
Pedrodevaca,
It is not my technique, it has been in use, discussed on forums, for several years now. I have not used it, yet, for roadways, but it is simple to explain, and make.
Decide on a base material: cardboard, any type of fabric material, floor tiles glued together, whatever.
Cut said base material into road segments, which can be butted together, at the ends, to form long, straight/curving/whatever shape is necessary, road sections.
Apply the acrylic caulk from the caulk gun, over the surface of the base material, spreading it around with either a gloved finger, or perhaps a plastic putty knife, but leave it rough, for medieval roadways -- they were rough all across, as the wheels traveled in ruts, along the outsides of the road, while the animal hooves trampled the center, and perhaps each wheel track, if pulled by two beasts, abreast, so no grass down the center, like in a car track, where only the tires wear along the outside tracks/ruts.
While the acrylic is wet, apply sand, and/or aggregate, to give it a rougher texture. When dry, pour off the excess sand, and paint in various shades of brown, with a black wash, to pick out the details. Make sure the ends are cut off straight, to allow the pieces to butt against each other, giving a nice join. You can apply grass green paint, along the outer edges, if desired; you can also apply green railroad ballast to the wet caulk along the outer edges for grass.
This is just one way to make road sections. The same technique can be used to make rivers and streams, only paint the base blue/green, first, then apply the clear caulk, over the top of the painted surface, which will be the bottom of the waterway. You can always apply a blue/green wash over the top of the rough surface of the cured, transparent caulk, to make it look like water. By using the painted bottom, with clear caulk on top, you will get some depth appearance. Apply some small aggregate rocks, along the bottom of the streambed (glue them prior to applying the thicker layer of caulk), or along the edges on the shore, to give it some interesting texture.
The base material used for rivers/streams/roadways will determine whether it can be applied to inclined surfaces, such as hillsides, or if it can only be applied to flat surfaces: hard bases (cardboard, floor tiles glued together, etc.) can only be used on flat surfaces; soft base materials (cloth) will be more flexible, allowing you to lay them over curved surfaces, instead of making butt connections at the angle changes. Plan ahead, when deciding what type of base to use. Cheers!
|
|