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Post by jennifer on Nov 10, 2016 0:28:23 GMT
I was going to work on a set of 3D printable modular road tiles. And would enjoy some/any feedback.
I've already determined I want to make them 5 inches long, so that way they can print on any 3D printer with a 6, 8 inch or larger bed.
I'd like to know what you guys think about as far as width of the road. What should the width of the road be typically? This is not including the 1/2 inch or so wide margins on each side of the road (to blend the road into the battle mat).
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Post by sgtslag on Nov 10, 2016 15:05:16 GMT
Might want to qualify tech level, or time period, for the road sections. Fantasy, historical, or Sci-Fi? Also, for what scale of miniatures will they be intended? Cheers!
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Post by jennifer on Nov 10, 2016 15:46:17 GMT
Fantasy 25-28mm
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Post by SpielMeisterKev! on Nov 10, 2016 16:40:33 GMT
Howdy,
It is difficult to be sure. It depends really on the "setting". A rural less traveled road might only be one wagon wide I would guess 15'? 3 squares, (3 inches or 3.75?)... A well traveled road might be 2 wagons wide to allow for passing...
The problem I see is that roads are not really uniform outside of towns. I really liked your canvas roads! You might consider printing "flavor" pieces for the sides of the road instead.
What ever you come up with, I want to see it, cuz your stuff the bomb!
Kev!
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Post by l7arkness on Nov 10, 2016 19:39:15 GMT
I agree with @spielmeisterkev! for the width as for the length i would go with shorter rather than longer for more modular uses
and one issue when i was designing mine was they are large and very flat so printing is not always easy and when put on boards any warping shows (I know there are much better printers out there you being one of them) and if there is flocking they kind of float or lean. That is not to discourage you i hope you find a better way.
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Post by jennifer on Nov 10, 2016 20:59:57 GMT
and one issue when i was designing mine was they are large and very flat so printing is not always easy and when put on boards any warping shows (I know there are much better printers out there you being one of them) and if there is flocking they kind of float or lean. That is not to discourage you i hope you find a better way. Well when you print to glass, the bottom always comes out perfectly flat. Have you looked into printing onto glass using just aqua net unscented hair spray for adhesion? That's what I do and I just found out Curufin does the same for an unheated bed even. I know your bed is unheated, so it's good to know the glass/hair spray works well with Curufin's. Also my battle mat is pretty flat as well -- try to keep them that way so things can sit on top of them with no issues... trees, roads, rivers, buildings etc. I was going to design the road tiles like my tree bases. YOu see how shallow the slope is right? Transitions pretty well into the battle mat. A little flock on those edges should blend in pretty well to the flock of hte battle mat? I'll find out soon enough I guess. I have a green grass battle mat that is heavily flocked.
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Post by jennifer on Nov 10, 2016 21:03:18 GMT
Howdy, It is difficult to be sure. It depends really on the "setting". A rural less traveled road might only be one wagon wide I would guess 15'? 3 squares, (3 inches or 3.75?)... A well traveled road might be 2 wagons wide to allow for passing... The problem I see is that roads are not really uniform outside of towns. I really liked your canvas roads! You might consider printing "flavor" pieces for the sides of the road instead. What ever you come up with, I want to see it, cuz your stuff the bomb! Kev! The canvas works out pretty well but it's not as thin on the edges as my tree base 3d printouts have been. Thought it would look more realistic with the printouts.. I dunno.
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Post by l7arkness on Nov 10, 2016 22:33:42 GMT
and one issue when i was designing mine was they are large and very flat so printing is not always easy and when put on boards any warping shows (I know there are much better printers out there you being one of them) and if there is flocking they kind of float or lean. That is not to discourage you i hope you find a better way. Well when you print to glass, the bottom always comes out perfectly flat. Have you looked into printing onto glass using just aqua net unscented hair spray for adhesion? That's what I do and I just found out Curufin does the same for an unheated bed even. I know your bed is unheated, so it's good to know the glass/hair spray works well with Curufin's. Also my battle mat is pretty flat as well -- try to keep them that way so things can sit on top of them with no issues... trees, roads, rivers, buildings etc. I was going to design the road tiles like my tree bases. YOu see how shallow the slope is right? Transitions pretty well into the battle mat. A little flock on those edges should blend in pretty well to the flock of hte battle mat? I'll find out soon enough I guess. I have a green grass battle mat that is heavily flocked. Cool i was just making sure that you had the problems i had covered and yea i think making the transition as smooth as your tree bases would look really good, i made some graves like DMScotty foam and sand ones and they came out really good so i know you can get a good texture on them. As far as the flocking goes its not that big of a issue but i know how much of a perfectionist you tend to be with your prints and it was something i noticed when i printed
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Post by margaret on Nov 11, 2016 18:08:28 GMT
As far as road dimensions go, I can say from experience that there are some very narrow roads in rural England still, even if they are paved. According to a Wikipedia article about the Conestoga freight wagon, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conestoga_wagon"The wagons used in the westward expansion of the United States were, for the most part, ordinary farm wagons fitted with canvas covers. A true Conestoga wagon was too heavy for use on the prairies. Including its tongue, the average Conestoga wagon was 18 feet long, 11 feet high, and 4 feet in width. It could carry up to 12,000 pounds (5,400 kg) of cargo. The early freight wagon was not intended to be ridden upon. The wagon had a brake handle on the left side between the two wheels and a teamster either walked beside the wagon or could ride standing (and could sit for a rough ride) on a pull-out board, called a lazy board, that provided access to the brake handle." Another web page gives detailed dimensions from a single, actual Conestoga wagon explorepahistory.com/odocument.php?docId=1-4-78According to this article, the width of the wagon tread was 64 inches and the length of the rear [larger] wheel hubs was 20 inches. This would make a total of 104 inches in width or 8 feet, 8 inches. So a road bed width might not be much wider than that. A road would have to be wider on any curves, though. I haven't calculated any turning radii. I do remember reading somewhere that different parts of England had different styles of wagons with different tread widths. The roads tended to get deeply rutted in one set of ruts, and all wagons would ride in that pair of ruts. So wagons built in one part of England might not be usable in another part if the tread widths were significantly different. So if it's a rural road, pick a reasonable rut width, add space on either side for the hubs and for the teamster to walk [however much wider than the hub width he needs] and widen it on the turns. Double that for the a two-lane road. For what it's worth, when I was doing project field surveys, I believe a one-lane access road was 12 feet wide - and that was for modern construction equipment.
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