gmory
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 7
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Post by gmory on Nov 4, 2016 21:45:08 GMT
It's on sale right now, bringing the total down to $280, so I went ahead and bought it.
Consequently, you'll probably all be seeing me around more often asking a plethora of questions. But looking at all the results on this board makes me so pumped to have it delivered!
To get this started though, is there anything I should expect or do right away?
I've been reading through Jennifer's experience and see she's done a ton of mods. Are there any I need to do right off the bat?
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Post by curufin on Nov 5, 2016 3:18:38 GMT
Excellent! The Maker Select V2 is a fantastic printer for the price. You will also be happy to hear that most of the 'mods' have already been integrated into the new printers, so you probably wont have to do much. There is a learning curve...so be prepared for that. And ask any questions you have. This is the thread that sort of chronicles my learning about 3d printing. Lot of question get asked and answered there. My advice would be to download Cura, which is the slicing software you will most likely use. Grab some models from thingiverse and import them. Look at some of the setting options... you wont be able to print anything, but it will give you a head start for when your printer arrives. Good luck, and we are all here to help.
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gmory
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 7
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Post by gmory on Nov 6, 2016 4:28:27 GMT
Excellent! The Maker Select V2 is a fantastic printer for the price. You will also be happy to hear that most of the 'mods' have already been integrated into the new printers, so you probably wont have to do much. There is a learning curve...so be prepared for that. And ask any questions you have. This is the thread that sort of chronicles my learning about 3d printing. Lot of question get asked and answered there. My advice would be to download Cura, which is the slicing software you will most likely use. Grab some models from thingiverse and import them. Look at some of the setting options... you wont be able to print anything, but it will give you a head start for when your printer arrives. Good luck, and we are all here to help. Thanks for the advice! I'm making my way through that thread you linked and picking up quite a bit. I have a question though about the bed. I'm reading a ton of stuff about using tape, gluesticks, hairspray, etc. Do you have a suggestion on that? If I plan on only using PLA, can I just print straight onto the bed itself? I read that could damage the bed though. Also, would it be a problem to keep the printer in a garage? Southern California so the temperatures never too cold and the humidity isn't really a problem.
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Post by jennifer on Nov 6, 2016 5:23:43 GMT
I use a glass bed on top of the build tak. I use aqua net unscented hair spray. Superior adhesion. Have to use a scraper most of the time to pop things off. I angle it at about 30 degrees and tap it hard the butt of my palm and that jolts it loose. I just spray a tiny amount over where I just printed and turn the bed heat back on to dry, while I take the sd card back to the computer to load up another file onto it.
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Post by fantascientist on Nov 6, 2016 7:47:50 GMT
I use glass at 60 °C for PLA, no adhesives or anything. Just clean the glass using alcohol before printing and it should stick just fine. When the print is done and the plate cools down, the print will release on its own in almost all cases. Prints with a large bottom surface sometimes need a wiggle but I never need tools to get them off.
When printing PET I do use a little bit of hairspray, because it doesn't stick as well as PLA. I've tried using hairspray with PLA as well and while it does improve adhesion, I find it is just not necessary (sometimes it can even stick too hard).
Edit: Make sure your bed is properly leveled though, and not too close or too far from the nozzle. Too far and the first layer will not properly stick to the bed, too close and the plastic may stick to the nozzle a bit, causing it to curl up or make bubbles in the first layer. On my printer when I have leveled the bed I only level once every few weeks or so and it's fine, but I'm not familiar with the Maker Select v2 so YMMV.
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Post by curufin on Nov 6, 2016 12:18:05 GMT
I use a glass bed on top of the build tak. I use aqua net unscented hair spray. Superior adhesion.file onto it. I do the exact same thing. It works great and I get dead flat prints every time. EDIT: You probably could put the printer in the garage, but I would try to make sure that it is as dust free as it can be while you are printing, and I would keep the garage door closed so contaminants do blow onto your print bed.
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Post by jennifer on Nov 6, 2016 13:29:39 GMT
I use a glass bed on top of the build tak. I use aqua net unscented hair spray. Superior adhesion.file onto it. I do the exact same thing. It works great and I get dead flat prints every time. EDIT: You probably could put the printer in the garage, but I would try to make sure that it is as dust free as it can be while you are printing, and I would keep the garage door closed so contaminants do blow onto your print bed. Regarding printer, I didn't know you have wanhao now, or do you put glass on Maker Architect? Yeah I really love how flat they come out on the glass.. they have a nice shine to them on the bottom because they are so flat lol. Very good for putting together your furniture pieces you made available on thingiverse. Good for gluing minis that have been split as well .. printing on tape would leave some gaps to fill due to wider seam.
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Post by jennifer on Nov 6, 2016 13:31:00 GMT
About the garage, humidity ruins filament and causes problems; so that's another consideration.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2016 14:31:37 GMT
I did find this about keeping it in the garage. This guy is in Washington state and I love his tips.
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gmory
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 7
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Post by gmory on Nov 6, 2016 14:36:34 GMT
Thanks for the replies everyone. Regarding the glass, is that something you have to buy custom cut? Then do you just lay that on top of the heated plate, or do you use the hairspray on the bottom side of this as well to make it adhere to the plate?
Also is "build tak" the included heated plate?
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Post by jennifer on Nov 6, 2016 14:44:38 GMT
Thanks for the replies everyone. Regarding the glass, is that something you have to buy custom cut? Then do you just lay that on top of the heated plate, or do you use the hairspray on the bottom side of this as well to make it adhere to the plate? Also is "build tak" the included heated plate? Yes, the build tak comes with the printer. It's meant to be printed on, but I was having problems with adhesion. Adding the glass plate is a bit of a trick, are you mechanically inclined? You need to print off an adjustable z axis end stop switch mod, so you have enough room when dialing it. I found the extra set of holes weren't ideally positioned and didn't allow enough room for adjusting bed level. Check out my thread on the mods I've done. I also give very good links to support groups for printer along with mod sites: dmscraft.proboards.com/post/52173/threadThere are tons of mods available for this printer on Thingiverse.com. Be sure to join the Wanhao I3 group there on thingiverse. If you ever have a problem with your printer or have a question, just ask in that group (and/or here) and you'll quickly get a lot of useful replies.
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Post by curufin on Nov 6, 2016 14:45:36 GMT
Im using regular single pane hardware glass that I had cut to size at Home Depot (less than $5 for two pieces). I used these clips to attach it to my printer Glass Clips. Hair spray gets sprayed on top of the glass before printing. Jen, I still have the Maker Architect 3D.
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Post by jennifer on Nov 6, 2016 14:51:50 GMT
For my Wanhao I3 (Maker Select V2) I bought this glass plate: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QQ5Q3BI(Ignore the negative reviews about it being "warped".. it doesn't warp. You just have to level the bed right so the glass sits flat on the bed.) And I use the following thermal padding (four 1.5 inch squares cut from this large sheet, and placed on corners underneath glass -- one sheet will last you a long while) : www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1The Wanhao Duplicator I3 has a heated bed, so the thermal padding helps a lot to get the glass warmed up faster. It also provides enough friction to not need the clips. But lately thinking I might try the clips to see if it helps the edges of objects to be smoother.. maybe that's why my tankards and wine bottles were turning out a bit rough?
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gmory
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 7
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Post by gmory on Nov 6, 2016 16:21:58 GMT
Thanks everyone, that makes more sense. Jennifer that link to the glass isn't prime so the delivery won't come until Dec 2 :/ so im gonna cruise down to home depot and get some normal glass as Curufin suggested. Since I get my printer tomorrow, I don't know the exact dimensions. Is it exactly the 7.9x7.9 inches as listed on MPs site for the build area? I'll pick up that padding though for sure. And looking at your other thread with your mods, there's this picture: I definitely wanna build those. But did you have drill holes in the glass plate? Sorry if these questions are dumb. Maybe things will be more clear when I actually have the printer in hand.
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gmory
Cardboard Collector
Posts: 7
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Post by gmory on Nov 6, 2016 16:23:16 GMT
I did find this about keeping it in the garage. This guy is in Washington state and I love his tips. This is perfect, I'm gonna definitely try this out.
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Post by fantascientist on Nov 6, 2016 16:29:32 GMT
I use this dust filter: www.thingiverse.com/thing:565432Prints in place, just add a tiny piece of sponge on the inside. Works perfectly, and a little more elegant
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Post by jennifer on Nov 6, 2016 17:13:36 GMT
Thanks everyone, that makes more sense. Jennifer that link to the glass isn't prime so the delivery won't come until Dec 2 :/ so im gonna cruise down to home depot and get some normal glass as Curufin suggested. Since I get my printer tomorrow, I don't know the exact dimensions. Is it exactly the 7.9x7.9 inches as listed on MPs site for the build area? I'll pick up that padding though for sure. And looking at your other thread with your mods, there's this picture: I definitely wanna build those. But did you have drill holes in the glass plate? Sorry if these questions are dumb. Maybe things will be more clear when I actually have the printer in hand. Use the measurements of the one I gave you in Amazon link. They specify the measurement. Btw, it's borosilicate glass if I recall, this bed is heated unlike curufin's. I suggest you just print on build tak as is for now. That's what Wyloch does. If I went with glass I'd order that one I got, along with those thermal pads. Don't worry about the glass right now, I suggest. There is no drilling of the glass.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2016 20:26:39 GMT
Thanks everyone, that makes more sense. Jennifer that link to the glass isn't prime so the delivery won't come until Dec 2 :/ so im gonna cruise down to home depot and get some normal glass as Curufin suggested. Since I get my printer tomorrow, I don't know the exact dimensions. Is it exactly the 7.9x7.9 inches as listed on MPs site for the build area? I'll pick up that padding though for sure. And looking at your other thread with your mods, there's this picture: I definitely wanna build those. But did you have drill holes in the glass plate? Sorry if these questions are dumb. Maybe things will be more clear when I actually have the printer in hand. Use the measurements of the one I gave you in Amazon link. They specify the measurement. Btw, it's borosilicate glass if I recall, this bed is heated unlike curufin's. I suggest you just print on build tak as is for now. That's what Wyloch does. If I went with glass I'd order that one I got, along with those thermal pads. Don't worry about the glass right now, I suggest. There is no drilling of the glass. That's another good point, heated bed vs non heated. Mine is also heated so I just give it a light coat of hairspray, very very little on the glass and it works great for me.
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