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Post by Meph on Nov 4, 2016 20:01:25 GMT
So for the last week or so I have been having issues with my printer losing connection once in a while. I have also noticed a few prints didnt complete the final layers. Today I found out why when I lost all connection to the printer. The damn micro usb came loose. I really dont like they way they had it connected in there, it was very flimsy to begin with. I think instead of remounting it as it was I am going to wire it up and move it to another location mounted underneath and permanently attach the usb cable. If I want to disconnect it I will do it from the PC, not the printer.
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Post by Meph on Nov 4, 2016 20:03:56 GMT
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Post by Meph on Nov 5, 2016 19:36:16 GMT
Poop, what a pain in the butt that thing was to repair....and then as I plugged in the USB cable the micro usb connector fell right off. I'm done messing with it, new board is ordered. =(
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Post by fantascientist on Nov 5, 2016 21:06:09 GMT
That's a shame. Looks like a pain to solder a connector like that. You'd figure something that gets put under so much strain as a usb connector would be attached firmly.
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Post by Meph on Nov 5, 2016 21:14:41 GMT
Well you will notice on the new board they redesigned it. They now have a full size usb connector. No idea why they chose to go with a micro originally.
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Post by Meph on Nov 6, 2016 14:52:41 GMT
Until my new board arrives I am currently printing of the micro sd card. I have been researching adding a glass plate to it based on the advice of a couple other members here and am finding that it's a bit more difficult with the auto leveling sensor. It sees through the glass and needs some adjustments. Instead I am thinking of going with a MIC6 Metal upgrade. This would increase my build volume from 6x6x6 to 8x8x10 and I will add a heat element. I have really learned how to customize my prints using Simplify3D and have no issues with bed adhesion. The real bonus here will be in the increased build volume. www.matrix-precision.com/products/metal-simple-880v2-xy-upgrade-kit
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Post by curufin on Nov 6, 2016 15:02:43 GMT
Cool. Were you always tethered to a pc? I have only used an SD card with my printer. Is there any advantage to using a PC to run prints? Seems like I'd just be losing a PC for the print time and I would be increasing the possibility of losing the print due to computer freeze, crash, etc.... Am I crazy?
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Post by Meph on Nov 6, 2016 15:08:40 GMT
Yeah I always had it tethered to a PC. Honestly if I wanted to go strictly with the SD card method then I could cancel my order for the new board. MicroUSB is broke but the SD works fine. Unlike your printer, the Printrbot has no lcd or controls. To print from SD card involves removing power from the printer, insert the card, power the printer and it automatically starts printing the file on the card. It's not like I can load the card with files and select what to print.
On the flip side, hooked to the computer I have a LOT of control over the printer with Simplify 3D.
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Post by Meph on Nov 6, 2016 15:09:53 GMT
Oh, as to being tethered though...the printer sits on my desk back in my game room. The PC there is hooked to a 26" tv and I use it during my D&D games. I also have full cable on it. The PC is there anyways.
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Post by curufin on Nov 6, 2016 15:51:48 GMT
Unlike your printer, the Printrbot has no lcd or controls. To print from SD card involves removing power from the printer, insert the card, power the printer and it automatically starts printing the file on the card. It's not like I can load the card with files and select what to print. Ahhhh, I see. Makes sense.
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Post by Meph on Nov 11, 2016 2:06:48 GMT
So today I got around to "upgrading" my printer with the new Revision F6 board that has the USB B connector. What a fiasco! I think they intended that board to go with the upgraded 10" bed. I installed it and I couldn't figure out why when I ran the bed leveling it would move the bed all the way left and then instead of stopping, the motor would keep trying to move it further. It did this with all 3 axis. I ended up going into the bios and realize the M211 setting (X/Y/Z Axis Settings) were set to 250mm Bed (10"). I changed them to 150mm and that issue was solved.
Next I couldn't print anything reliably. The level was off, the M212 setting (auto level sensor offset) was set to 0. After playing with it for hours I finally got it leveled and the auto sensor set properly and now I am getting the BEST prints I have ever had. I told Curufin the other day that I was printing with rafts again. Now I am printing 4 tiles at a time, no rafts, and they are coming out perfect.
It was well worth the effort but damn, it took me HOURS to get this right. I have had plenty of people ask me how hard 3D printing is. 3D Printing is easy, doing it right is hard. It really does take a lot of patience and diligence to keep your printer working properly.
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