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Post by skunkape on Dec 7, 2013 3:06:52 GMT
To avoid the warping what about just brushing on craft sealer? The moog stuff.... ( Sorry having a brain fart on brand name ) -R Did you mean Mod Podge?
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robagd
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 137
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Post by robagd on Dec 7, 2013 3:20:13 GMT
That sounds right I have a case of the dumbs today ... -R
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Post by wilmanric on Dec 7, 2013 16:13:57 GMT
So, hope that helps and Inspires Ok. Wow. So cool. I'm re-evaluating my project now, before I run out of cardboard!! Thank you for the inspiration!
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Post by wilmanric on Dec 7, 2013 16:18:46 GMT
So, before I shift gears into hexagon mode, I do have a proof of concept going here. I would integrate this with the cool 2.5D walls in the hex tiles, for more texture. I bought some cheap <$2 per tube acrylic caulk. Not silicone. I've applied it as the "walls" on some tiles. I smoothed it a bit with a piece of plastic. I don't know how long it will take to cure/dry, or how durable it will be. EDIT: it says 2 hours to dry before painting. If it works, it's a lot cheaper than flexible modeling paste. We shall see.
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leolad72
Paint Manipulator
I am a DM; it isn't in my job description to "kid around"
Posts: 147
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Post by leolad72 on Dec 7, 2013 17:17:37 GMT
It depends on how thick you laid it down. 2 hours before painting but, it'll be a bit longer before you can "bang it around".
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Post by wilmanric on Dec 7, 2013 17:37:28 GMT
It depends on how thick you laid it down. 2 hours before painting but, it'll be a bit longer before you can "bang it around". I'll probably give it at least 12 hours... Thanks!
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Post by drathirbarrastudios on Dec 7, 2013 18:21:37 GMT
Im very interested in seeing how the Dap tiles turn out! I love Dap!
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Post by wilmanric on Dec 7, 2013 19:32:39 GMT
So, hope that helps and Inspires Ok. Wow. So cool. I'm re-evaluating my project now, before I run out of cardboard!! Thank you for the inspiration! So, here's a proof of concept. Might be too small. 3" on a side. I really like the scale of 5" on a side; just a bit tougher to make a template (the hex will be 10" wide!!) I "carved" some runes in the floor with a toothpick. I just smooshed the DAP into the cracks around the edges and smeared it around. It washes up pretty quickly being latex.
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Post by skunkape on Dec 7, 2013 22:42:23 GMT
Caulk can be your friend if you use it right! Looks to me like you're off to a good start, wilmanric!
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Post by onethatwas on Dec 8, 2013 5:55:43 GMT
Making these geomorphs is really addictive. I'm done with 10 so far and want to make more...
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robagd
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 137
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Post by robagd on Dec 8, 2013 6:11:50 GMT
Its not the tiles them self that additive its the fumes from the glues My plans got blown out of the water today so I made 2 beholders, hand full of mushrooms, a wizards tower, 5 or 6 river pieces. Looking forward to seeing how they came out. -R
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Post by wilmanric on Dec 9, 2013 1:12:41 GMT
I took a page out of onethatwas 's book and I switched to hexagons. (Big thanks to him!) I like the size and the feel of them, but man, they are hard to cut perfectly. They "fit" together, but more often than not, there's a gap. Oh well. Maybe that's a dungeon hazard! Here is my first (small) set - I plan to texturize them with the DAP acrylic caulk I bought. I will probably make a few more strategic pieces before starting that project. I do have a bunch more tiles to make...
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Post by kokigami on Dec 16, 2013 10:16:00 GMT
I like what you are doing, and especially the idea of using soft foam and tissue to create walls and texture. Hexes certainly give an excellent modular aspect, and those look very nice. My own solution to caverns was to use shapes that were basically triangles, with the idea that they could join along any edge. I also built some raised areas for variations. I found, however, that it was difficult to create multiple paths that joined again in a later tunnel seamlessly. I think this could be done with more careful planning, but it also gave me another idea, that will introduce greater 3 dimensionality to the table tactics. It is all hard to explain.. I will try to document what I do when find a bit of time. For now, this one picture of a game I ran at a con (a strictly skirmish, nor RPG fight) using Ganesha Games Song of Blades and Heroes rules. There are also some Hirst Arts Water Cavern features in there. And the whole thing is just way too green.. I have toned that down a bt since then..
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Post by wilmanric on Dec 16, 2013 14:04:04 GMT
I like what you are doing, and especially the idea of using soft foam and tissue to create walls and texture. Hexes certainly give an excellent modular aspect, and those look very nice. My own solution to caverns was to use shapes that were basically triangles, with the idea that they could join along any edge. THAT is an extremely elegant solution! Amazing! Thank you for sharing this idea!
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Post by skunkape on Dec 16, 2013 16:14:18 GMT
@ kokigami - Terrain looks good! Never thought about using triangles to simulate caves!
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Post by brokentoy on Dec 16, 2013 17:56:46 GMT
It's incredible how much flexibilty you gain by removing egde walls, huh?
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Post by onethatwas on Dec 16, 2013 18:12:07 GMT
Yes, but it also can present other problems. Suspension of disbelief is a big deal, and the more plain the terrain is, the bigger risk you take of having your visual oriented players losing immersion.
The 2.5d method is a good medium between full blown 3d and flat tiles.
But I agree that for some situations flat tiles can be really effective with the right accents (such as those hirst arts pieces). I myself use stacking flat tiles for hills and variable wilderness terrain. I don't see why they can't be used as a cavern system in a similar fasion. In fact, it could make for some really good cavern design if you use tile stacking. I might decide to make a 2nd set of flat tiles (no walls) to try out some cavern lay outs. Never hurts to have more caverns. So great idea and addition to the geomorphic dungeon design Kokigami
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Post by onethatwas on Dec 16, 2013 18:52:53 GMT
So I did some brainstorming just now (I get my best ideas in the shower for some reason) and I thought how I could make a reasonably sized, generic and flexible modular set using just 100% flat tiles, using Kokigami's idea as inspiration.
I'd want it to be something that doesn't require too much effort (that is afterall the point here) but be a bit more than a whole bunch of triangles cut to the same size (or same shape, since it looks like those triangles come in different sizes from Kokigami's picture).
Then I thought of tangrams, and I've come to the conclusion that if I take a triangle or rectangle that i can easily reproduce (easy enough...ever cardboard box has flaps that can be cut to the same general shape with little effort), draw out a tangram-like pattern on it, cut, and paint, I can make at least two or three of these quickly, which I can test out to get a concept of making randomized, stackable cavern complexes. I'll post pics on how it turns out (as well as the process) when I get it worked out.
Thanks for the inspiration Kokigami. Awesome idea!
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Post by kokigami on Dec 16, 2013 19:09:16 GMT
Yes, but it also can present other problems. Suspension of disbelief is a big deal, and the more plain the terrain is, the bigger risk you take of having your visual oriented players losing immersion. The 2.5d method is a good medium between full blown 3d and flat tiles. But I agree that for some situations flat tiles can be really effective with the right accents (such as those hirst arts pieces). I myself use stacking flat tiles for hills and variable wilderness terrain. I don't see why they can't be used as a cavern system in a similar fasion. In fact, it could make for some really good cavern design if you use tile stacking. I might decide to make a 2nd set of flat tiles (no walls) to try out some cavern lay outs. Never hurts to have more caverns. So great idea and addition to the geomorphic dungeon design Kokigami I did make a tiny nod towards the 2.5 d concept when building them. And, I will give credit to DMScotty for the project, as I started it after seeing some of his earliest videos. At the Apex of each corner, I built up a tiny bit of wall using spackle. My orignal idea was to use hi density polystyrene insulation, but cutting all those corners seemed an unpleasant option. And the spackle didn't rise to the heighth that I had envisioned. And I needed them done. (Hence the overly green paint job.. it was the only bulk green I had handy - and thematically I needed my caves to be green due to the fluff built into the campaign. ) Though the big minis fight I envisioned in the Caverns has yet to actually happen - the players took a left turn at Albuquerque. The idea of usng triangles came from trying to learn to sculpt 3d models in Blender. I was actually trying to think of a way to make fully articulatable hills for wargames. But without movable points, that can't happen. If I were to do it over, I would restrict my angles to 5 degree increments, improving the chances of clean matches when two branch tunnels reconverge. I appreciate all the warm responses.. Don't mean to hijack the thread though. Back to our Gifted crafter.
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Post by onethatwas on Dec 16, 2013 21:24:28 GMT
I think it's really good input, and certainly inspiring, so don't feel you hijacked the thread. Anyway, after having the inspiration bug hit me, I hit the crafting table and came up with this: Obviously it's not painted yet. I attached it to one of my (Still in progress...needs final painting touches) hexagon geomorph tiles and put some mini's on it for scale. So, a small tutorial for anyone who is interested: I started with an 8" by 14", and (using graph paper) plotted out a Tangram like design. I wanted some polygonal pieces along with some nearly-triangle pieces. using my basic plan, I plotted it out on cardboard using POINTS to intersect the lines on (It may be hard to make out here, my camera quality is lacking). I made sure that I had at least 1" to any given side, but using this template some of the shapes have irregular lengths for sides (They don't always conform to inches). Next I cut them out. After cutting the first one, I used the shapes to trace on the pattern to the other 3 cardboard rectangles I had prepped. I cheated a little and cut two pieces of cardboard at a time... The effect was to have various shapes that can be assembled, stacked, laid down in any general arrangement. Generally the effect that is seen in Kokigami's post. The major exception is that instead of using triangles, I'm using polygons. I have plans to strengthen the edges by using hot glue (Which will also give some rough edging effects), and painting both sides to allow me to use them in any orientation. Lots of painting, yay... One benefit of creating it in a tangram fashion is storage: As you can see, they stack into a neat pile that I can put into a box. I'll probably be making another 6 sets of these, or perhaps I'll make another tangram-style arrangement so that I have a wider polygonal set to work with. So here's a couple more images. One is a close up of the joining next to the hexagon geomorphs (Since I have them, may as well use them, right?), and the other is a closeup of a bridge I made by stacking some of the smaller pieces up and then using a longer piece. Obviously as the DM, one problem I see is how to rule where the walls are...in this instance I could rule that the cavern bridge is enclosed by rock wall (standard cavern fare), making the Cleric safe from the Giant, OR I can rule that the bridge is open, making the Giant able to attack the Cleric. But that shouldn't be *too* difficult to deal with. Maybe I can make some sort of short, flexible material that I can somehow adhere to these flat tiles to represent walls (Short enough to qualify for 2.5d still). So, again, thanks to Kokigami for the inspiration. Hope this helps anybody else who may be considering it as an option...
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