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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 20:05:25 GMT
Is there a standard wall segment height we want? Might look good if they are all the same height or no? That's what I was getting at in my earlier post - I wrestled with this for a few days and ended up at a standardized 3/4" height due to aesthetics, golden ratio, whatever you call it, 3/4" just felt the best. Of course you're more than welcome to change it up, but 3/4" is based on my research and is what I use for all my tile types. Oh, also consider that miniatures with eccentric poses, weapons drawn, etc. will very likely be okay against a 3/4" wall. Add some height, and they might begin to conflict. No I am talking about "wall segment" height. Like wall traps, fountains coming from the walls, towel racks, etc.. I need the max height so I make a blank wall tall enogh for both darkness and curufin.
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Post by Wyloch on Mar 21, 2016 20:05:55 GMT
....ooohhhhhhh I see now what you were talking about. The clip-on segment, not the wall itself. My bad.
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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 20:06:26 GMT
Yeah I just need to know how tall to make the blank wall clip. It will be a blank textured wall with bricks.. somewhat flat.. using Devon Jones wall textures.
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Post by Meph on Mar 21, 2016 20:11:44 GMT
Meph, what is the storage capacity of your DropBoX? 55 GB right now with 50 GB free at the moment. I also have another empty 50 GB Dropbox if we need. Should be enough to last us a while I would think.
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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 20:24:14 GMT
Meph, what is the storage capacity of your DropBoX? 55 GB right now with 50 GB free at the moment. I also have another empty 50 GB Dropbox if we need. Should be enough to last us a while I would think. Okay wanna set us up? I guess just make a folder off the root called "Wyloch" ? Then could you send a private group message to the team with the path to it and passwords or whatever?
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Post by curufin on Mar 21, 2016 21:16:13 GMT
Dark, you are killing it with these traps. Awesome work! As a side note, all completed files should be run through NetFabb to fix any self-intersecting surfaces and non-manifold edges. Lots of people dont do that before uploading to thingiverse and I have been getting tons of problems. I now auto run EVERYTHING through NetFabb. It's free and I have had a 100% success rate using it. You just need to create a sign in.
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Post by l7arkness on Mar 21, 2016 21:18:56 GMT
Spike Wall Trap V1 (Debating wither i want to make this trigger-able) As a note all of my designs will be printable without supports (when possible) these posts are just where i will show total volume and cost not the actual print, as well as the most recent version
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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 22:20:42 GMT
How does 2 inch tall clip on wall segments sound? This includes the clip part.
How thick do we want the clips to be? Needs to accommodate some brick texture because I am going to run the texture all the way down to the top of the tile.
I also need to know the width of the blank wall segment. I can do a couple different widths.
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Post by teazia on Mar 22, 2016 1:25:17 GMT
Cool thread, I like how it is going. One thing to keep in mind is that this system is explicitly NOT compatible with DF and HA tiles. That being said, I would appreciate if stackable wall heights was also introduced, not just the 3/4 inch wall. The OF walls are suitably flat, but not the Dragonlock (which are copyright anyhow). There is real joy in stacking and the Z axis is something that has been woefully unappreciated throughout the history of ttrpgs. Who knew that writers cannot handle the third dimension via art? The greatest ttrpg map designer (and this person even went on to do computer game maps) was Paul Jaquays/Jennell Jaquays. (Excuse my past tense/present tense usage here, I don't know the correct way to address this). Jaquays was an amateur comic artist who also designed Judges Guild modules and was able to use his art perspective training to create novel environs in the third dimension. Several of his modules are included in the all time greats. Even to this day, with all the tech and software we have, mainstream module maps are flat, which is really meh, when there is no reason they can't be at least somewhat up/down. Most writers cannot grok the 3rd dimension, and even many artists cannot, but computers can do it easily. And so can correctly created dungeon tile
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Post by teazia on Mar 22, 2016 8:36:11 GMT
Picked up a few keys... Printer will be arriving in the next few days Micromake 3d pre-assembled and tested by the local agent. Also, why are we doing this in imperial? Metric and microns baby!
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Post by jennifer on Mar 22, 2016 9:30:37 GMT
Picked up a few keys... Printer will be arriving in the next few days Micromake 3d pre-assembled and tested by the local agent. Also, why are we doing this in imperial? Metric and microns baby! Awesome! Responded about your wonderful new printer in this thread I just created for you : dmscraft.proboards.com/thread/3801/micromake-3d-reprap-kossel
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Post by l7arkness on Mar 22, 2016 12:21:39 GMT
Picked up a few keys... Printer will be arriving in the next few days Micromake 3d pre-assembled and tested by the local agent. Also, why are we doing this in imperial? Metric and microns baby! Imperial FTW! besides that Wyloch's designs are based in In. no need to change all the measurements when a simple conversion works just as well
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Post by teazia on Mar 22, 2016 13:07:40 GMT
Imperial is better for proportional handwork for sure, as long as Cura can grok it, it's cool for me.
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Post by l7arkness on Mar 22, 2016 14:29:48 GMT
Imperial is better for proportional handwork for sure, as long as Cura can grok it, it's cool for me. Well to be fair i use autodesk inventor and when i export my .stls i set the source units to millimeters so cura doesn't have to worry about scaling
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Post by DM Misha on Mar 22, 2016 16:50:31 GMT
Very excited for this thread and what comes out of it! I became interested in 3d printing with the Fat Dragon Games DragonLock kickstarter, which a friend has been printing me pieces as the expansions are released to them. Great stuff, but not to Wyloch's specifications/dimensions. And Wyloch's stuff I've loved since he first came on the scene! So I'm really excited that you guys have taken it upon yourself to create 3d versions of Wyloch's awesome tiles!
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Post by jennifer on Mar 22, 2016 18:31:24 GMT
Walls -- Feedback needed before I can proceedOkay so I'll just use Devon Jone's OpenForge 2.0's textured walls. The brick walls will start at base level, 1/4" inch up from the tabletop. They will be 1/2" tall from that point -- 5/16" taller than the top of the tile's stone floor. There will be three rows of bricks in that 1/2" span. This means that each brick's row height will be 1/2/3" = 1/6" If wall segments are to be 2 inches tall (from the 1/4" base not from the table), then that will be 12 rows of bricks at 1/6" tall per row. Does this all sound good? Need feedback from everyone on this before I work on it. Also how wide should the default wall segment be? I suppose I could easily do several widths.. just give me like a list of 3 widths please. EDIT: The walls would look something like this (ignore the tile texture -- going to sculpt one myself) : Another image of the same file, from a different perspective (don't let the pespective fool you it's the same tile): So how do the bricks look? EDIT: Same file again different angle to show the bricks better -- different lighting too. What do you think of the brick shapes?
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Post by jennifer on Mar 22, 2016 18:52:16 GMT
By the way if Darkness or Curufin want to take Devon Jone's wall pieces and cut and paste appropriately, feel free that way all I have to work on is the stone tiles. It should be realy easy for you guys to cut paste and rescale in the appropriate axis. To form 1/2" x 2" straight wall, the corner wall (Devon Jones just put it up on thingiverse today). Should be able to handle the diagonal wall too with some extra cutting & pasting and slicing. The circular curved diagonal wall might be a bit more tricky but with how clever you gusy are with inventor I belt you can do that easily as well.
Again, that way I can just work on the stone floor tiles.
(Sorry for any mispelling/grammar -- too busy with other things right now to edit.)
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Post by Wyloch on Mar 22, 2016 19:26:39 GMT
Recommend the clip-ons should be no more than 2 inches wide, because that ensures they will fit on the middle wall of a dead-end tile, which is the most limiting case.
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Post by jennifer on Mar 22, 2016 19:38:54 GMT
Recommend the clip-ons should be no more than 2 inches wide, because that ensures they will fit on the middle wall of a dead-end tile, which is the most limiting case. Okay I suggest we start with the following clip on blanks (with wall textures): 1) 2" 2) 1 3/4" 3) 1 1/2" ? Do we want as narrow as 1.25" (the width of a 1x1 stone tile?)
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Post by jennifer on Mar 22, 2016 19:41:24 GMT
Recommend the clip-ons should be no more than 2 inches wide, because that ensures they will fit on the middle wall of a dead-end tile, which is the most limiting case. What do do you think about the brick walls? How do the look in the blender screenshots I shared?
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