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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 14:45:18 GMT
This thread to house this new project. Several are interested and perhaps we can form a team and assign tasks. Several can do 3D Design & Sculpting here and have shown interest.
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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 14:47:45 GMT
Design Goals
(this post will be updated as the design evolves)
1) 100% compatibility with the existing hand crafted Wyloch Tile System. 2) Realistic, quality tile & brick wall textures -- and ability to paint them with minimal effort to conceal any print lines. 3) Overall tile thickness will be 7/16" -- settled 11/32"5) Wall height will be the standard 3/4" from the table top-- standard 1/4" wall thickness. 6) First set of 2.5" x 2.5" tiles will be of the following dungeon types: a) plain b) straight wall c) corner wall d) diagonal straight wall e) circular curved diagonal wall f) dead end / three walls 7) Each person's models for this project will be uploaded to a single project Dropbox or Google Drive -- using Meph's.
.. 99) What else? The Project Team1) Wyloch
2) Curufin3) |7arkness
4) Dante3rd5) Meph6) Jennifer (taking a break) 99) Anyone else? Suggested Design/Modeling SoftwareAutodesk Inventor (Free Professional) -- for design Blender -- for sculpting Wyloch you're gonna have to buy a 3D printer now! Giggles.
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Post by l7arkness on Mar 21, 2016 15:03:05 GMT
Spike trap v2
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Post by Wyloch on Mar 21, 2016 15:37:36 GMT
Pretty freakin' cool you guys are doing this. I know you guys have been doing lots of experimenting behind the scenes with regard to modelling and materials.
As I have zero experience with 3D printing, the best I could do here is offer creative guidance, but if you totally ignore it and go your own route I won't be upset in the least. And Jennifer, you should move your name to the top of the list.
- Why is the tile thickness 7/16"? I would recommend 1/4" thick base. And then yes, the spaces will add some extra thickness, but I would aim for those to be no more than 1/8". I know, my original dungeon tiles have you glue two squares together which makes it 3/16" but that was not ideal - it was done for strength and because chipboard is simply very thick. With a 3D printer, you have the luxury of making it whatever thickness you want.
- ....a follow-up thought to the above point...in case you ever want to model clip-on features, it will be important to have enough "free wall height" for them to bite. The thicker your tile spaces, the more you steal from the available free wall height.
- As for spaces themselves, I will assume you're starting out with the original standard dungeon tile. So, I would recommend you keep the corner-rounding to a minimum (small radius). Bigger radii imply more broken up, perhaps cavern-ish (ala Hirst Arts). But that's just me.
- Ensure that the gap in the middle of the tile is twice the size of the gap on the outside edge of the tile. In the model screenshots you showed, I believe this was the case but I couldn't tell for sure.
- Still love the recessions for pennies. So awesome. Consider larger holes for other nationalities' currencies? Or plain old machine washers?
- Don't forget about dead ends! (three wall tile)
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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 15:41:48 GMT
Pretty freakin' cool you guys are doing this. I know you guys have been doing lots of experimenting behind the scenes with regard to modelling and materials. As I have zero experience with 3D printing, the best I could do here is offer creative guidance, but if you totally ignore it and go your own route I won't be upset in the least. And Jennifer, you should move your name to the top of the list. - Why is the tile thickness 7/16"? I would recommend 1/4" thick base. And then yes, the spaces will add some extra thickness, but I would aim for those to be no more than 1/8". I know, my original dungeon tiles have you glue two squares together which makes it 3/16" but that was not ideal - it was done for strength and because chipboard is simply very thick. With a 3D printer, you have the luxury of making it whatever thickness you want. - ....a follow-up thought to the above point...in case you ever want to model clip-on features, it will be important to have enough "free wall height" for them to bite. The thicker your tile spaces, the more you steal from the available free wall height. - As for spaces themselves, I will assume you're starting out with the original standard dungeon tile. So, I would recommend you keep the corner-rounding to a minimum (small radius). Bigger radii imply more broken up, perhaps cavern-ish (ala Hirst Arts). But that's just me. - Ensure that the gap in the middle of the tile is twice the size of the gap on the outside edge of the tile. In the model screenshots you showed, I believe this was the case but I couldn't tell for sure. - Still love the recessions for pennies. So awesome. Consider larger holes for other nationalities' currencies? Or plain old machine washers? EDIT: Scratch the following, we are going to do a single Dropbox or Google Drive. How about this: 5) Each person's models for this project will be uploaded to their own respective Thingiverse accounts, with a reference to this thread and Wyloch's youtube video: The case for the 1.25" grid. (Like I've done with the 10 penny weighted base.) This okay Wyloch / everyone?
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Post by Wyloch on Mar 21, 2016 15:43:02 GMT
Absolutely
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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 15:47:52 GMT
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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 15:51:07 GMT
Wyloch do you have a Thingiverse account? Can I have a link to your profile page so I can follow you?
EDIT: Nevermind, not needed at this point -- we're going to use Dropbox / Google DRive for the project files.
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Post by l7arkness on Mar 21, 2016 16:03:30 GMT
Jennifer just noticed your post im wanting to do the a few non standardized tiles i.e traps, decorative, mechanical but i would like to base these off the standard pieces so when we nail down the base tiles let me know
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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 16:16:19 GMT
- Why is the tile thickness 7/16"? I would recommend 1/4" thick base. And then yes, the spaces will add some extra thickness, but I would aim for those to be no more than 1/8". I know, my original dungeon tiles have you glue two squares together which makes it 3/16" but that was not ideal - it was done for strength and because chipboard is simply very thick. With a 3D printer, you have the luxury of making it whatever thickness you want. I forget, what was the thickness of your original tiles (in crafting video on youtube)? Were they about 7/16" or just under? Dwarven Forge and OpenForge are 7/16". And people often base 1/4" hirst arts tiles with foam to allow for recessing etc.. You have to consider there needs to be room underneath for modular bases.. this allows the individula to craft a base to their liking that will accommodate various system. 1/4" base will allow this -- including ability to house 10 pennies for example. Also need to consider allowing enough base thickness for recessed tiles like darkness's spike trap, sewer, lava, etc. tiles. Regarding wall clips.. I do want them to work correctly so I do need to specs you have in your crafting video. Maybe it was a bit less than 7/16" Although I don't want the tile caps too thin else they might have problems printing (warpage). If the walls will have problem cliping on with tile cap being 3/16" , could we slightly increase wall height? I really don't think we wanna go thinner on the tile caps or base to be honest: Modularity, recessing & printing adhesion/warp issues with thinner cap?
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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 16:20:58 GMT
Ok round one Spike trap v1 Awesome! could you revise this later easily once I get you the stone tile textures I create? Or better yet do away with the stone tiles edges in your model and bring the trap edge to edge that way it can work with any 2x2 tile with various textures?
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Post by curufin on Mar 21, 2016 16:35:02 GMT
I would be happy to help out...pending approval. I would make one suggestion: Dont upload any files to thingiverse until at least the basic dungeon set is fully done. That means designed, printed, and tested (rinse and repeat as often as necessary to get it perfect). No beta test files. If you want to get OF/DF converts and new comers, there needs to be a full line of things to print that work. That wasn't a rant. Just advice on what I have seen out there. I may also help to lump all the basic dungeon files in one zip folder as a single download. Then offer additional pieces as single files. Just thoughts.
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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 16:36:59 GMT
I would be happy to help out...pending approval. I would make one suggestion: Dont upload any files to thingiverse until at least the basic dungeon set is fully done. That means designed, printed, and tested (rinse and repeat as often as necessary to get it perfect). No beta test files. If you want to get OF/DF converts and new comers, there needs to be a full line of things to print that work. That wasn't a rant. Just advice on what I have seen out there. I may also help to lump all the basic dungeon files in one zip folder as a single download. Then offer additional pieces as single files. Just thoughts. Very good idea. Should we use a dropbox account to house the project? Can we use your's Meph? How much capacity will we need? How about Google Drive? Any totally free services that will let us store tons of potentially large texture files?
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Post by curufin on Mar 21, 2016 16:42:44 GMT
I would be happy to help out...pending approval. I would make one suggestion: Dont upload any files to thingiverse until at least the basic dungeon set is fully done. That means designed, printed, and tested (rinse and repeat as often as necessary to get it perfect). No beta test files. If you want to get OF/DF converts and new comers, there needs to be a full line of things to print that work. That wasn't a rant. Just advice on what I have seen out there. I may also help to lump all the basic dungeon files in one zip folder as a single download. Then offer additional pieces as single files. Just thoughts. Very good idea. Should we use a dropbox account to house the project? Can we use your's Meph? How much capacity will we need? How about Google Drive? Any totally free services that will let us store tons of potentially large texture files? Any of those will work. Probably Google Drive. But most of the files Ive seen are just a few Mb. Lets add "28mm" to the tag list. EDIT: I might be interested in working on some of the "clip-on" wall features. But I'll work on whatever is needed to the best of my ability...but I'm about as Noob-y as it gets.
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Post by l7arkness on Mar 21, 2016 16:48:27 GMT
I would be happy to help out...pending approval. I would make one suggestion: Dont upload any files to thingiverse until at least the basic dungeon set is fully done. That means designed, printed, and tested (rinse and repeat as often as necessary to get it perfect). No beta test files. If you want to get OF/DF converts and new comers, there needs to be a full line of things to print that work. That wasn't a rant. Just advice on what I have seen out there. I may also help to lump all the basic dungeon files in one zip folder as a single download. Then offer additional pieces as single files. Just thoughts. Very good idea. Should we use a dropbox account to house the project? Can we use your's Meph? How much capacity will we need? How about Google Drive? Any totally free services that will let us store tons of potentially large texture files? I vote google drive 15gb storage and super stable. as for editing my models yes everything i will make will be based in autodesk inventor be dimensioned and i will have a .ipt/.iam and stl file so if anyone else needs to modify
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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 16:53:08 GMT
Textured WallsWe need a nice textured walls and like them to look as good as Dwarven Forge and Dragonlock (I like dragonlock's textures from what I've seen -- haven't printed them though.) Devon Jones has agreed to let us use his if we'd like. They are flat with some indentations. Not too much texture -- he's done a great paint job adding perceived texture. Whereas Dragonlock and Dwarvenforge are actually there. Dwarven Forge wall closeup (just snapped the photo) : Dragon Lock (not my photo): OpenForge 2.0:
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Post by Wyloch on Mar 21, 2016 17:05:10 GMT
- Why is the tile thickness 7/16"? I would recommend 1/4" thick base. And then yes, the spaces will add some extra thickness, but I would aim for those to be no more than 1/8". I know, my original dungeon tiles have you glue two squares together which makes it 3/16" but that was not ideal - it was done for strength and because chipboard is simply very thick. With a 3D printer, you have the luxury of making it whatever thickness you want. I forget, what was the thickness of your original tiles (in crafting video on youtube)? Were they about 7/16" or just under? Dwarven Forge and OpenForge are 7/16". And people often base 1/4" hirst arts tiles with foam to allow for recessing etc.. You have to consider there needs to be room underneath for modular bases.. this allows the individula to craft a base to their liking that will accommodate various system. 1/4" base will allow this -- including ability to house 10 pennies for example. Also need to consider allowing enough base thickness for recessed tiles like darkness's spike trap, sewer, lava, etc. tiles. Regarding wall clips.. I do want them to work correctly so I do need to specs you have in your crafting video. Maybe it was a bit less than 7/16" Although I don't want the tile caps too thin else they might have problems printing (warpage). If the walls will have problem cliping on with tile cap being 3/16" , could we slightly increase wall height? I really don't think we wanna go thinner on the tile caps or base to be honest: Modularity, recessing & printing adhesion/warp issues with thinner cap? Ah, I understand now. Those dimensions are to help with certain 3D printing considerations, got it. I think you'll be alright with those sizes. Way back in the day, I experimented ad-naseum with the wall height, 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1-1/4", and even eighth inch sub-divisions. I ended up going with 3/4" because something about it just looked "right." Are you familiar with the golden ratio? Something about it just fits. So I would advise you not change the wall height. ...another reason would be, your initial charter had a goal of "compatible with existing hand-made tiles" which are always 3/4".
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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 17:11:53 GMT
I forget, what was the thickness of your original tiles (in crafting video on youtube)? Were they about 7/16" or just under? Dwarven Forge and OpenForge are 7/16". And people often base 1/4" hirst arts tiles with foam to allow for recessing etc.. You have to consider there needs to be room underneath for modular bases.. this allows the individula to craft a base to their liking that will accommodate various system. 1/4" base will allow this -- including ability to house 10 pennies for example. Also need to consider allowing enough base thickness for recessed tiles like darkness's spike trap, sewer, lava, etc. tiles. Regarding wall clips.. I do want them to work correctly so I do need to specs you have in your crafting video. Maybe it was a bit less than 7/16" Although I don't want the tile caps too thin else they might have problems printing (warpage). If the walls will have problem cliping on with tile cap being 3/16" , could we slightly increase wall height? I really don't think we wanna go thinner on the tile caps or base to be honest: Modularity, recessing & printing adhesion/warp issues with thinner cap? Ah, I understand now. Those dimensions are to help with certain 3D printing considerations, got it. I think you'll be alright with those sizes. Way back in the day, I experimented ad-naseum with the wall height, 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1-1/4", and even eighth inch sub-divisions. I ended up going with 3/4" because something about it just looked "right." Are you familiar with the golden ratio? Something about it just fits. So I would advise you not change the wall height. ...another reason would be, your initial charter had a goal of "compatible with existing hand-made tiles" which are always 3/4". Okay but how thick is your standard plain tile? it's 1/4 for base then how much on top of that? Also do the tiles need a large enough gap to allow for the wall clip on? How wide of a gap do you want between the tiles? (more gap makes lil chairs harder to sit down) HOw thick are the wall segment clips.. will they fit in the gap? If they do they'll be a full 1/2" long reaching the 1/4" base. Let me know I could probably answer these questions myself if I went through your videos but kinda busy right now.
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Post by Wyloch on Mar 21, 2016 17:20:58 GMT
Okay but how thick is your standard plain tile? The foundation is 1/4", and then you pile stuff on top ("stuff" being the spaces).
it's 1/4 for base then how much on top of that? It varies depending on the tile style (cavern, sewer, etc.) I would recommend you commit to a single universal standard. Earlier, you proposed 3/16". That should work, and I wouldn't go any taller than that.
Also do the tiles need a large enough gap to allow for the wall clip on? There should never be any gap between physical tiles on the table, no matter what.
How wide of a gap do you want between the tiles? (more gap makes lil chairs harder to sit down) There should never be any gap between physical tiles on the table, no matter what. Perhaps you mean the free wall height? If so, I will say my castle tiles (episode 20) only have 1/4" of wall to "bite." And they work fine. So, your planned dimensions (1/4" base plus 3/16" for spaces) should be fine as-is.
How thick are the wall segment clips.. will they fit in the gap? There should never be any gap between physical tiles on the table, no matter what. The clips vary based on what they are. But their thickness doesn't matter; it will never affect the ability to place tiles adjacent to other tiles.
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Post by jennifer on Mar 21, 2016 17:24:36 GMT
Okay but how thick is your standard plain tile?The foundation is 1/4", and then you pile stuff on top ("stuff" being the spaces). it's 1/4 for base then how much on top of that? It varies depending on the tile style (cavern, sewer, etc.) I would recommend you commit to a single universal standard. Earlier, you proposed 3/16". That should work, and I wouldn't go any taller than that. Also do the tiles need a large enough gap to allow for the wall clip on?There should never be any gap between physical tiles on the table, no matter what. How wide of a gap do you want between the tiles? (more gap makes lil chairs harder to sit down)There should never be any gap between physical tiles on the table, no matter what. Perhaps you mean the free wall height? If so, I will say my castle tiles (episode 20) only have 1/4" of wall to "bite." And they work fine. So, your planned dimensions (1/4" base plus 3/16" for spaces) should be fine as-is. How thick are the wall segment clips.. will they fit in the gap?There should never be any gap between physical tiles on the table, no matter what. The clips vary based on what they are. But their thickness doesn't matter; it will never affect the ability to place tiles adjacent to other tiles. Sorry when I say "tiles" in the above instance, I mean 1x1 stone tile. Sorry again. How much of a gap between stone tiles on the same 2x2 tile? HOw much of a gap between the wall and the adjacent stone tile on that single 2 x2 tile? EDIT: so no gap for clip between the wall and adjacent tile.. wall "sits" on the tile. So my next question is, will 5/16" clip height be enough? 1/2" wall - 3/16" tile thickiness = 5/16" clip height
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