Post by jennifer on Feb 20, 2016 20:44:00 GMT
Jennifer's Dungeon Tile System
Well after messing around a while I finally think I came up with something that will work well, look great and be compatible with many other systems.
Using a 1/4" base and 3/16" thick cork for the floor (thanks DM Scotty for the idea), I first called this system OpenCork.. but now I'll just call it "Jennifer's Dungeon Tile System".
Goals
1) Dungeon Tile Compatibility: crafted (e.g. cork), Hirst Arts, Dwarven Forge, OpenForge, 3D printed (including ones I've sculpted)
2) 2.5D Next compatibility
3) Tilescapes compatibility
4) Modular walls -- i.e. walls aren't not permanently attached to bases
5) Low yet gorgeous looking walls -- using Hirst 1/2" thick walls (or crafted)
6) TheDMGInfo system compatibility
Dungeon Tile Compatibility
I want my 2 x 2 inch dungeon tiles to be the same height as other major dungeon tiles so they will be compatible. I used the OpenForge (3D printed tiles) as a frame of reference, because I heard they were compatible with Dwarven Forge.
Turns out the 7/16" height of the OpenForge dungeon tile works out well since it is the same height as my crafted "OpenCork" tiles. Which are dungeon tiles made of a top layer of 3/16" cork on a 1/4" base. (For the 1/4" base I use 3D printed 1/4" bases with recesses for 4 pennies -- I also craft 6x6 1/4" bases with 10 pennies inside the middle layer of cardboard for weight.)
I'll know by tomorrow if the Dwarven Forge tiles are also 7/16" tall -- as I'll get a sample pack in the mail today or tomorrow.
[EDIT: I received them today and they are 7/16" tall -- good news. See my review of them here.]
I also craft tiles in Blender (3D sculpting application) and print them on my 3D printer. They are 7/16" tall and have recesses for 4 pennies.
When I get some Hirst Arts floor tiles, I'll be basing them on 3/16" base since the Hirst Floor tiles are 1/16" thicker than cork.
Having all my tiles 7/16" tall is nice because it's compatible with OpenForge (which has lots of recessed floor tile options I can print.. e.g. sewers, pools, etc..)
The above photo, if you look closely, illustrates the usage of handmade cork tiles (including a 6x6 tile), a 3D sculpted tile (on the left) and an OpenForge 3D printed tile on the right. Nice and even
2.5D Next Compatibility
For my 2.5D Next mat, I'll use an array of several 6x6 hand made tiles. Each of the tiles will be 7/16" tall. If crafted with cork or Dollar Tree foam board, I'll use my 10 penny 1/4" chipboard/cardboard base. If the 6x6 tile is using Hirst arts floor tiles, then I'll use a 3/16" base because Hirst Arts floor tiles are 1/16" thicker -- want the overall height always to be 7/16".
For my walls, they will be modular and 1/2" tall on the mat (or array of tiles) and 1/2" wide (e.g. Hirst Arts blocks, crafted, etc..) -- see modular walls below.
I'll be using canvas, paper and other types of overlays on the mat when recessing is too much work.
Tilescapes Compatibility
I'll be making/using a lot of 6x6 and 3x3 tiles. I'll also be making fronts and windows.
This is another reason I like not having my walls attached to my tiles.. I can arrange the walls any way I see fit. Which pretty much means little to no exterior walls in the case of Tilescapes -- for that gorgeous Isometric terrain look.
I notice DM Scotty puts short walls down between tiles to say separate a main tavern room from a back bedroom. This works out great because this is how I do walls for Dungeon Tile Compatibility. (see Modular Walls below)
Note: my cork Tilescape tiles and Fronts will be on 1/4" risers (or bases) so they are even in floor height with the rest of the system (e.g. dungeon tiles).
Modular Walls
I decided to not go with walls that are attached to tiles, for a few reasons:
1) I want maximum configurability
2) I want the walls to be compatible with various systems including 2.5D Next and Tilescapes -- both which demand modular walls to almost no walls at all.
3) I want dungeon floor options with respect to color and textures. I want several different ones. By keeping the walls modular, I can re-use them throughout without having to create a new wall tile for each and every color/texture variation. This will save a lot of time, money and precious storage space. (A cool example of different color/texture floor tiles with the same color walls through out is here -- but imagine the walls are 2.5D instead at 1/2" tall.)
4) I want to be able to compactly store the tiles and walls. Having them separated means it'll be easier to do so.
All my walls are 1/2" thick, whether it be for Dungeon Tiles or 2.5D Next. I"ll be using Hirst Arts blocks, 1/2" rigid insulation, cardboard or any other appropriate materials for the situation.
For modular Dungeon Tiles, my walls are 1" tall and of varying lengths. They will placed on the table adjacent to tiles-- so around and in between tiles. (Thanks for the ideas TheZenGM -- loved your video.)
For 2.5D Next, my walls are 1/2" tall and of varying lengths and placed on the mat (or array of 7/16" thick 6x6 tiles)
Here is an example photo of the shorter 2.5D Next walls (laying on the grass):
What's nice is if I use a hybrid of Dungeon Tiles and 2.5D Next, the interior walls will be just about flush with the exterior walls for a nice even look -- this is due to the 1/2" tall 2.5D Next walls, the 1" exterior walls and the extra 1/4" base below the floor tiles. The following photo illustrates this (all those interior walls are sitting on a single 6x6 cork tile):
Low yet gorgeous looking walls
I printed out a typical 3D dungeon tile with a wall on it, sat it on the table and well, even standing at the kitchen table I couldn't see what was on the other side of the wall. So I decided to go with half inch walls.
I still wanted that Dwarven Forge/Hirst look despite going with low walls so I settled on Hirst Arts fieldstone blocks. I can craft other walls with various materials as well that will look nice. e.g. cardboard, wood, foam, toilet paper mache masonry, etc.. or even use another type of Hirst wall block -- there are many nice ones to choose from (e.g. Gothic)
TheDMGInfo system compatibility
Working on this.. more to come. I do know I'll be working on wall segments and I do recall TheDMGInfo recommending the use of a 3" wide hall tile with 1" grid and 1/2" wide walls on each side -- which is identical to the photo above. I may need to put TheDMGInfo tiles on a riser though to be level with the other parts. I am gonna create one from cardboard just like he instructs and work it into my system
Here's a photo that shows a blank wall segment. I think I am going to do the fountain first, or maybe a switch? There are so many cool ones! Love these things! Thanks TheDMGInfo & Curufin.
Summarizing
This is just one way to do things and I just thought I'd share my ideas. It's experimental and always room for improvement.
Well after messing around a while I finally think I came up with something that will work well, look great and be compatible with many other systems.
Using a 1/4" base and 3/16" thick cork for the floor (thanks DM Scotty for the idea), I first called this system OpenCork.. but now I'll just call it "Jennifer's Dungeon Tile System".
Goals
1) Dungeon Tile Compatibility: crafted (e.g. cork), Hirst Arts, Dwarven Forge, OpenForge, 3D printed (including ones I've sculpted)
2) 2.5D Next compatibility
3) Tilescapes compatibility
4) Modular walls -- i.e. walls aren't not permanently attached to bases
5) Low yet gorgeous looking walls -- using Hirst 1/2" thick walls (or crafted)
6) TheDMGInfo system compatibility
Dungeon Tile Compatibility
I want my 2 x 2 inch dungeon tiles to be the same height as other major dungeon tiles so they will be compatible. I used the OpenForge (3D printed tiles) as a frame of reference, because I heard they were compatible with Dwarven Forge.
Turns out the 7/16" height of the OpenForge dungeon tile works out well since it is the same height as my crafted "OpenCork" tiles. Which are dungeon tiles made of a top layer of 3/16" cork on a 1/4" base. (For the 1/4" base I use 3D printed 1/4" bases with recesses for 4 pennies -- I also craft 6x6 1/4" bases with 10 pennies inside the middle layer of cardboard for weight.)
I'll know by tomorrow if the Dwarven Forge tiles are also 7/16" tall -- as I'll get a sample pack in the mail today or tomorrow.
[EDIT: I received them today and they are 7/16" tall -- good news. See my review of them here.]
I also craft tiles in Blender (3D sculpting application) and print them on my 3D printer. They are 7/16" tall and have recesses for 4 pennies.
When I get some Hirst Arts floor tiles, I'll be basing them on 3/16" base since the Hirst Floor tiles are 1/16" thicker than cork.
Having all my tiles 7/16" tall is nice because it's compatible with OpenForge (which has lots of recessed floor tile options I can print.. e.g. sewers, pools, etc..)
The above photo, if you look closely, illustrates the usage of handmade cork tiles (including a 6x6 tile), a 3D sculpted tile (on the left) and an OpenForge 3D printed tile on the right. Nice and even
2.5D Next Compatibility
For my 2.5D Next mat, I'll use an array of several 6x6 hand made tiles. Each of the tiles will be 7/16" tall. If crafted with cork or Dollar Tree foam board, I'll use my 10 penny 1/4" chipboard/cardboard base. If the 6x6 tile is using Hirst arts floor tiles, then I'll use a 3/16" base because Hirst Arts floor tiles are 1/16" thicker -- want the overall height always to be 7/16".
For my walls, they will be modular and 1/2" tall on the mat (or array of tiles) and 1/2" wide (e.g. Hirst Arts blocks, crafted, etc..) -- see modular walls below.
I'll be using canvas, paper and other types of overlays on the mat when recessing is too much work.
Tilescapes Compatibility
I'll be making/using a lot of 6x6 and 3x3 tiles. I'll also be making fronts and windows.
This is another reason I like not having my walls attached to my tiles.. I can arrange the walls any way I see fit. Which pretty much means little to no exterior walls in the case of Tilescapes -- for that gorgeous Isometric terrain look.
I notice DM Scotty puts short walls down between tiles to say separate a main tavern room from a back bedroom. This works out great because this is how I do walls for Dungeon Tile Compatibility. (see Modular Walls below)
Note: my cork Tilescape tiles and Fronts will be on 1/4" risers (or bases) so they are even in floor height with the rest of the system (e.g. dungeon tiles).
Modular Walls
I decided to not go with walls that are attached to tiles, for a few reasons:
1) I want maximum configurability
2) I want the walls to be compatible with various systems including 2.5D Next and Tilescapes -- both which demand modular walls to almost no walls at all.
3) I want dungeon floor options with respect to color and textures. I want several different ones. By keeping the walls modular, I can re-use them throughout without having to create a new wall tile for each and every color/texture variation. This will save a lot of time, money and precious storage space. (A cool example of different color/texture floor tiles with the same color walls through out is here -- but imagine the walls are 2.5D instead at 1/2" tall.)
4) I want to be able to compactly store the tiles and walls. Having them separated means it'll be easier to do so.
All my walls are 1/2" thick, whether it be for Dungeon Tiles or 2.5D Next. I"ll be using Hirst Arts blocks, 1/2" rigid insulation, cardboard or any other appropriate materials for the situation.
For modular Dungeon Tiles, my walls are 1" tall and of varying lengths. They will placed on the table adjacent to tiles-- so around and in between tiles. (Thanks for the ideas TheZenGM -- loved your video.)
For 2.5D Next, my walls are 1/2" tall and of varying lengths and placed on the mat (or array of 7/16" thick 6x6 tiles)
Here is an example photo of the shorter 2.5D Next walls (laying on the grass):
What's nice is if I use a hybrid of Dungeon Tiles and 2.5D Next, the interior walls will be just about flush with the exterior walls for a nice even look -- this is due to the 1/2" tall 2.5D Next walls, the 1" exterior walls and the extra 1/4" base below the floor tiles. The following photo illustrates this (all those interior walls are sitting on a single 6x6 cork tile):
Low yet gorgeous looking walls
I printed out a typical 3D dungeon tile with a wall on it, sat it on the table and well, even standing at the kitchen table I couldn't see what was on the other side of the wall. So I decided to go with half inch walls.
I still wanted that Dwarven Forge/Hirst look despite going with low walls so I settled on Hirst Arts fieldstone blocks. I can craft other walls with various materials as well that will look nice. e.g. cardboard, wood, foam, toilet paper mache masonry, etc.. or even use another type of Hirst wall block -- there are many nice ones to choose from (e.g. Gothic)
TheDMGInfo system compatibility
Working on this.. more to come. I do know I'll be working on wall segments and I do recall TheDMGInfo recommending the use of a 3" wide hall tile with 1" grid and 1/2" wide walls on each side -- which is identical to the photo above. I may need to put TheDMGInfo tiles on a riser though to be level with the other parts. I am gonna create one from cardboard just like he instructs and work it into my system
Here's a photo that shows a blank wall segment. I think I am going to do the fountain first, or maybe a switch? There are so many cool ones! Love these things! Thanks TheDMGInfo & Curufin.
Summarizing
This is just one way to do things and I just thought I'd share my ideas. It's experimental and always room for improvement.