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Post by wilmanric on Feb 10, 2016 4:17:21 GMT
Looking at their list of supported printers, I don't see Maker Architect on the list. What printer are you telling it you're using? The Monoprice 3d printer. Meph and wilmanric , do me a favor. Please download this Goristo (you may need to create a sign in if you havent already done it), drop him into MBD standing up, add supports and then run the preview. You dont need to print it. The preview for me, said unknown time, unknown material. It was one of the minis that I couldn't get to work on MBD. Im wondering if it is just on my end, or if it is something with the file/software. Thanks. As a side note, I have been keeping all my rafts, supports, and failed prints in a bag for that fateful day I build an extruder. Im up to 128g so far. I will do this as soon as my printer stops. I have a Mac BTW, so that'll be different.
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Post by wilmanric on Feb 10, 2016 4:19:09 GMT
I am going to look into simplify 3D because the rafts with Makerbot are huge. My 6 print of tiles spent and hour just preparing the rafts. They also require trimming every tile. I am on vacation as of an hour ago and don't go back to work until the 23rd. I just ordered 2 more kg spools of white last night so I have a lot of printing ahead of me in the next two weeks. Have you tried "peeling" the rafts off? I just kinda pick at it and flex it a bit and (so far) my rafts have pulled away from my models with no damage. They are huge, but they aren't causing me any trimming/cutting problems so far...
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Post by wilmanric on Feb 10, 2016 4:20:22 GMT
Please don't get me wrong. MBD has been working great for straight printing from .stl. But, I have found a few cons in MBD that I'm having trouble seeing beyond. 1) doesn't support skirts and brims. 2) Doesn't support manipulating an object more than rotating, moving, or scaling. I cant separate a creature from it's base, for instance. 3) MBD thinks you are printing on a MB 3d printer that has a smaller build platen than the MA3d printer actually has. This means you can't print something to the limit of your printer. There isn't any overwrite control to say "dont worry about the build size, just print anyway" 4) Using another program, like Slic3r, to do modifications sometimes results in MBD altering the model in ways you cant change. So far, Simplify3D has addressed all of these issues. Trust me, I would much rather not spend additional money...or at the very least, spend it on plastic instead, but at the end of the day if it allows me to print everything I want... I think it will be worth it. That, however, doesn't mean I'm not open to any other suggestions..... Good to know. Thanks. I guess I may get to where you are someday -- right now it's doing everything I need it to do.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 10, 2016 5:21:07 GMT
Well, this was the first mini I printed. I am definitely going to have to up the resolution for minis. Not great but it's not too bad I guess. It needs to be trimmed up better and once it's painted I think it will look ok. The horns didn't print so good and the chest looks a little funky. Hopefully tomorrow I can get it painted up. Hard to see the detail in these pics but the face actually does have some detail. Yeah I bet it's gonna look good .. especially printed at highest detail. There are painting tricks to make 2d (low detail surfaces) look 3d and really pop .. right? I'll need to learn them if I print these.. Really like the idea of printing them saving $$ THere's always modeling paste too Like I need a snow troll that has shaggy furs . I can use this bare skin hill giant I saw and then just draw on some fur wit the modeling paste
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Post by Meph on Feb 10, 2016 12:21:50 GMT
I am going to look into simplify 3D because the rafts with Makerbot are huge. My 6 print of tiles spent and hour just preparing the rafts. They also require trimming every tile. I am on vacation as of an hour ago and don't go back to work until the 23rd. I just ordered 2 more kg spools of white last night so I have a lot of printing ahead of me in the next two weeks. Have you tried "peeling" the rafts off? I just kinda pick at it and flex it a bit and (so far) my rafts have pulled away from my models with no damage. They are huge, but they aren't causing me any trimming/cutting problems so far... It's funny because my first few days it seemed like my rafts were coming right off. I was doing single prints then and still experimenting. Now most of my prints are anywhere from 2-6 at a time and the rafts have gotten much harder to get off. 90% of the raft comes right off but there is always a little bit of trimming. I don't know what has caused the difference.
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Post by wilmanric on Feb 10, 2016 14:13:48 GMT
PRINTING TIP: I don't know if this will be of value to anyone else, but we're here to share ideas, so I figure why not. I put the blue tape down on the build platform as suggested, but I still have trouble getting the prints off of it. I've started pulling up a corner, just a bit, then I slide an old, used plastic gift card under there. It's strong enough to push, thin enough to wedge and it does a good job of popping the print off. Plus, it doesn't scratch the blue tape at all.
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Post by curufin on Feb 10, 2016 14:30:14 GMT
I have had zero luck with getting rafts off the model. I have had to grind/sand/file each one off.
Last night I had a rash of failed prints. Im not sure what happened (I thought I was very close with all my settings). It was very frustrating to say the least. It would also seem that different softwares interpret .stl files differently.(?) Is that possible? I suppose it may be a setting issue (or pilot error). "I know nothing, Jon Snow." I printed two multi part sci-fi ships off of thingiverse. My intent was to print one at 1:1 scale with no weapons and one a little larger, with copied/mirrored weapons, larger wings and more sensor.... so I could have two sort of similar, but different ships (one com and one non-com). Anyway, I printed one complete ship in MBD (when I was using it) and I have printed one since I started S3D. When I printed the ship's bumper in MBD, it came out perfect (only it was on a raft), but when I printed the same bumper (from the exact same .stl) S3D chopped it up into 16 different pieces. After the fail bumper print, I checked it again in S3D. It was solid and even in the wireform view there were no gaps. But when I ran the preview it showed all of the pieces not connecting. Im really not sure what is going on....
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Post by wilmanric on Feb 10, 2016 14:31:26 GMT
One of the things I'm hoping to do with my printer is use it to make objects that I can mold. I'll clean this up, fill in some gaps with putty, and then mold it using Oomoo. That way, I can make a bunch of these out of water putty and save a bunch of $ and time. Warhammer 40k Dreadnaught wreck. This model is found on Thingiverse. www.thingiverse.com/thing:1103699There's another one of a Rhino that I'll make -- then I'm going to get started on walls, ruins, etc -- gotta get proficient with SketchUp.
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Post by Meph on Feb 10, 2016 14:31:28 GMT
My blue tape is needing to be replaced almost daily. After so many prints the tape seems to start coming up. I have to keep pushing air bubbles out of it and reseating it. It also discolors slightly as if the blue dye in the tape is coming off. It's cheap and easy so I spend a couple minutes putting down new tape and leveling the machine.
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Post by l7arkness on Feb 10, 2016 15:07:45 GMT
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Post by Meph on Feb 10, 2016 15:20:38 GMT
A couple things about that. First we are all currently printing with PLA and according to that article, it only works on ABS. Secondly, I agree with the end of that article, everything just looks melted to me. Some people might like it but while it might "smooth" out the print lines it will also kill any details.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 10, 2016 16:09:57 GMT
One of the things I'm hoping to do with my printer is use it to make objects that I can mold. I'll clean this up, fill in some gaps with putty, and then mold it using Oomoo. That way, I can make a bunch of these out of water putty and save a bunch of $ and time. Warhammer 40k Dreadnaught wreck. This model is found on Thingiverse. www.thingiverse.com/thing:1103699There's another one of a Rhino that I'll make -- then I'm going to get started on walls, ruins, etc -- gotta get proficient with SketchUp. What is this "water putty"? Very interested thanks!
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Post by l7arkness on Feb 10, 2016 17:08:01 GMT
One of the things I'm hoping to do with my printer is use it to make objects that I can mold. I'll clean this up, fill in some gaps with putty, and then mold it using Oomoo. That way, I can make a bunch of these out of water putty and save a bunch of $ and time. Warhammer 40k Dreadnaught wreck. This model is found on Thingiverse. www.thingiverse.com/thing:1103699There's another one of a Rhino that I'll make -- then I'm going to get started on walls, ruins, etc -- gotta get proficient with SketchUp. What is this "water putty"? Very interested thanks! Durhams Rock-Hard Water Putty think clay powder with strength very useful in a ton of home repairs and crafting apparently, only used it on repairs but once i get my 3d printer you bet i will be trying it out
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Post by jennifer on Feb 10, 2016 17:10:31 GMT
Wow nice. So you can use it just like you would plaster? Plaster sucks in my experience becasue it breaks so easy. The water putty item just falls right out of a silicone or plastic mold? You can drop it from say 5 feet and it can't break either?
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Post by jennifer on Feb 10, 2016 17:36:00 GMT
So I am going to be getting my printer by the end of the day. I don't have any of that blue tape. I guess I need to make a trip to Home Depot now. Is there anything else I need to buy in addition to this blue tape?
Have a link to what blue tape I should buy or can you describe exactly what I need? I know there are a lot of varations sometimes and I ultimately always end up buying the wrong thing (frustrating).
Is there anything better than blue tape?
Not sure exactly why I need it but I see you guys keep talking about this blue tape .
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Post by l7arkness on Feb 10, 2016 18:25:47 GMT
So I am going to be getting my printer by the end of the day. I don't have any of that blue tape. I guess I need to make a trip to Home Depot now. Is there anything else I need to buy in addition to this blue tape? Have a link to what blue tape I should buy or can you describe exactly what I need? I know there are a lot of varations sometimes and I ultimately always end up buying the wrong thing (frustrating). Is there anything better than blue tape? Not sure exactly why I need it but I see you guys keep talking about this blue tape . 3d Printing Essential - not everything on this list is necessary buy from my research very useful just fyi the glue, kapton tape, and blue tape are to be used interchangeable, but i would stick to the blue painters first and then if you don't like it try the glue The blue paint is used so the prints will adhere much better to the plate when printing you will need the thick roll (The one shown in the linked list will be perfect)
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Post by curufin on Feb 10, 2016 18:35:51 GMT
It is just blue painters tape, the brand I am using is 3M. Any Blue painters tape should be fine (just don't get green frog tape). You will print in the blue tape instead of directly on the build platen. The tape just helps you get the model off the build platen easier. I don't think you need anything else.
The water putty acts just like plaster. It comes in a powder that you mix with water. You can mix it to different consistencies for different applications. It is stronger than plaster but small, thin pieces are still fragile. Some pieces may survive a 5 foot fall....but I wouldn't bet the farm on it.
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Post by jennifer on Feb 10, 2016 18:45:11 GMT
So I am going to be getting my printer by the end of the day. I don't have any of that blue tape. I guess I need to make a trip to Home Depot now. Is there anything else I need to buy in addition to this blue tape? Have a link to what blue tape I should buy or can you describe exactly what I need? I know there are a lot of varations sometimes and I ultimately always end up buying the wrong thing (frustrating). Is there anything better than blue tape? Not sure exactly why I need it but I see you guys keep talking about this blue tape . 3d Printing Essential - not everything on this list is necessary buy from my research very useful just fyi the glue, kapton tape, and blue tape are to be used interchangeable, but i would stick to the blue painters first and then if you don't like it try the glue The blue paint is used so the prints will adhere much better to the plate when printing you will need the thick roll (The one shown in the linked list will be perfect) Thanks, I have everything in that huge list except the painter's tape I do have Avery Permanent Glue Stick and get it very affordably.. should I use that instead of the painter's tape?
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Post by l7arkness on Feb 10, 2016 20:01:03 GMT
3d Printing Essential - not everything on this list is necessary buy from my research very useful just fyi the glue, kapton tape, and blue tape are to be used interchangeable, but i would stick to the blue painters first and then if you don't like it try the glue The blue paint is used so the prints will adhere much better to the plate when printing you will need the thick roll (The one shown in the linked list will be perfect) Thanks, I have everything in that huge list except the painter's tape I do have Avery Permanent Glue Stick and get it very affordably.. should I use that instead of the painter's tape? From what i have read it helps but there is a tendency to leave small glue clumps that have to be worked out before printing, i plan on using tape because i feel much more comfortable with that
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2016 22:34:05 GMT
You can use hair spray directly on the platform or on the blue tape to help the PLA stick. Not sure if you need a heated bed or not, but it helps me a lot!
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