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Post by dungeonmistress on Oct 2, 2014 5:02:58 GMT
Thank you, @rouseau, for that info. I'll definitely take all this into consideration before I do anything more.
All the trips, tricks and hints that I've been given here are all worth due consideration and they will receive such.
Again, thank you to everyone!
I will post final pics when I've decided what to do next.
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Post by grandinquisitorkris on Oct 2, 2014 6:33:32 GMT
It seems to me that your best bet would be an oil wash from here. You might want to put a coat of gloss lacquer over the acrylics first, though. An oil wash is a pretty simple mixture (just oil paint and thinner, really) but it will rub off even long set acrylics if you apply too much force. Granted, if you have a light hand and just use your brush to move around large quantities of the wash or if you follow those Minwax instructions and dip it, you might be fine without the lacquer coat. I would still do it, though, even if you're going to substitute a spray clear coat. The cool thing about the oil wash is that you can come back when it's dry and use rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab to remove the wash from the high points, avoiding the need to paint on some of those highlights. Minwax Polyshades are polyurethane. You're going to have a hard time working with them after the initial application and even more headaches down the road if you don't properly finish your polyurethane layer before putting a dull coat on it. Plus, if you're using a brush to apply the polyurethane, you're going to need some thinner to clean that brush. Maybe low odor mineral spirits? Well, you could use those same mineral spirits to make an oil wash and use your Minwax money to buy something else later. Keep in mind, the original article here was written in 1997. We've learned quite a bit in the intervening years about what you can and can't, should and shouldn't do, when it comes to your miniatures. This is one of those things that I would say you definitely can but probably shouldn't do. I mean, really... It's a wood stain with polyurethane in it. Best case scenario, you end up with a nice looking wash with rather unfortunate, total coverage. Worst case, coats you apply over the urethane could have some real trouble curing, leaving you with a funny looking model (Top coats can wrinkle if you don't take your time and let the urethane fully cure). In short, I think there are much cheaper ways to achieve the same look without the need for all of the expensive stains and whatnot. Minwax Polyshades are going to cost about 12.99 USD a quart. Then, you need a thinner. A quart of mineral spirits is going to run you another 5 to 10 USD. You can get a tube of black oil paint for the same price as the mineral spirits, give or take, and make as much black wash as you want. Better yet, get one of those oil painting starter sets for cheap and you can make all sorts of custom oil washes. If you want to go the Minwax route, though, I won't stop you. It seems like it'll work alright so long as you give it a day or so to cure before you try doing anything else to it. been painting figs for over 20 years , wish i had discovered the minwax dip method sooner , because it has made painting so much easier , and while minwax does cost about $12 a can , that can lasts a good while . and while you say a lot has been learned since the article was written , at $12 a can it its steal compared to the "quickshade" sold by army painter , which is essentially the same product, but cost $30 for a can less than half as big . and as for brushes , i buy bags of brushes at hobby lobby for about $5 or less on frequent sale , they are a hodge podge mix of sizes and shapes , and are pretty much disposable , so even if i didnt use them on the minwax , i would still dispose of them after some other project . while i use it mostly as a last step after painting , i and others DO go back occasionaly (depending on the fig ) and add in highlights using our acrylic paints . going the oil route , you still gotta wait for it to dry , and its more like an "ink" . where as with the minwax , it adds shading , but is translucent at the same time , so it adds in a great effect , and another layer of protection to the figure
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Post by dungeonmistress on Oct 2, 2014 19:36:52 GMT
@rouseau said: "For instance, you could totally buy clear polyurethane and tint it whatever color you want. Most polyurethane is oil based to begin with but I can see that Minwax also sells a water based product, Polycrylic, for a similar price." OK. Since I have a small can of the Minwax clear gloss polycrylic on my shelf and lots of piant colors to work with, I try this method first and see how I like the results. on the next fig, perhaps I'll try something different, supposing, of coarse that I have the money to do so. This is why I love this forum! I want to thank all you guys, you've been so very helpful! I really appreciate it.
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valas
Room Planner
I'm being twisted, on the sideway down.
Posts: 459
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Post by valas on Oct 5, 2014 19:29:20 GMT
Do not spray-prime the Reaper Bones miniatures! I did this with my first one and the primer never fully sets. It stays tacky and comes off when touched too much with your fingers (such as from handling it while painting on the acrylics). Just a word of caution! Found this on the reaper forum when painting bones. link
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Post by Erasmas on Oct 5, 2014 19:57:41 GMT
Ahh, thank you!
That explains it.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2014 1:16:54 GMT
Did you water down your paints first?
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renel
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 113
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Post by renel on Mar 6, 2015 1:05:58 GMT
I jumped into painting miniatures with both feet. My first mini was really bad and then I started studying the youtubers. I now have many Reaper miniatures in various stages of painting. I'm having loads of fun with it and after viewing yours I imediately thought I would add a wash to create some beautifully deep shade. Keep up the great work.
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Post by dungeonmistress on Mar 8, 2015 2:33:58 GMT
Thanks for the tip about the tips (did I say that? groan), I will remember it the next time I have a spray can problem. As for the care and feeding of your figs prior to and during painting, I agree that some sensible precautions should be taken, but let's not go overboard. After all it's not brain surgery. Not even like when Ed Norton was pretending to be a doctor to help his buddy Ralph Kramden, "Don't touch me nurse, I'm sterile!" Points to whoever gets that reference!
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Post by darkpath on May 6, 2016 5:03:17 GMT
Looks great, gotta recommend a dark primer though. I use citadel chaos black primer and it really makes my miniatures details pop! Brushes are like knives, each one has it's own purpose and can be lethal in the right hands, don't mess with DM Scotty!!!!!
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Post by SpielMeisterKev! on May 7, 2016 0:06:03 GMT
Howdy, I made my saving throw vs the bones II Pshhhh... NOT! Kev
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Post by voodoo on May 28, 2016 15:13:06 GMT
Wow first mini paint? Looks awesome and with a #3. Nice! Just awaiting my Bones III minis.........shudder so many to paint.......
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Post by drwillsdc on Aug 19, 2016 3:03:13 GMT
For a first attempt, it tells me a few things, you have very good brush control, which can be more difficult than other aspects of this hobby. I know you said the player chose the colors, but from a palate standpoint, they work really well together and create a nice theme overall. Like some others have said, some shading would add a great deal of depth. As an early technique, you can apply a wash liberally over the whole mini in one color, or you can wash specific areas with darker versions of the base color. Also, to highlight, don't discount a technique called dry brushing. A lot of experienced painters will "poo poo" that in favor of blending, but as a whole, a great effort. The most important things are to have fun, try out new techniques, and always realize there is something more you can learn if you want to. Hope you had as much fun as it sounds like you did!
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