teaman
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 165
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Post by teaman on Jun 14, 2014 0:47:20 GMT
Any suggestions for preventing warping when making 2.5 tiles and set pieces? I really hit this problem a lot, especially with larger pieces. Here are a few questions:
1. Does the hot glue gun work better than Elmer's glue or wood glue at preventing warping? 2. Does spray paint work better than other paint at preventing warping? If I paint over the spray paint, will it still warp? 3. Does painting the back side first help?
ANY advice will help me out. Thanks in advance.
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Post by onethatwas on Jun 14, 2014 1:50:00 GMT
Warping is a moisture problem. Jot glue contains less moisture (by alot) than white glue. Spray paint usually results in less moisture application than painted on acrylics. So that should answer your questions. Mostly. Hope it helps
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Post by Brainbot on Jun 14, 2014 4:32:31 GMT
Warping is also due to PVA (white glue) shrinking as it dries. DMG''s has a video where he has used wooden skewers to provide rigidity and possible warping prevention.
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Post by Draklith on Jun 14, 2014 5:52:37 GMT
I have used wax paper over my piece then placed large book on top of the wax paper for the dry process, should be on flat surface, may take longer to dry
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teaman
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 165
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Post by teaman on Jun 14, 2014 9:35:34 GMT
I have used wax paper over my piece then placed large book on top of the wax paper for the dry process, should be on flat surface, may take longer to dry
Does the wax paper leave an impression on the paint the way Saran wrap would? If you are doing further layer, it may not be an issue.
Sounds like the hot glue and spray paint will go a long way to helping keep the moisture out of the cardboard. Has anyone tried double layering the base? Or is that overkill?
(I sprung for a hot glue gun yesterday as well).
Also, thanks to everyone for the VERY prompt replies. I'm liking this board a lot already. Can't wait to post some things I've made, and I've used 2.5D pieces in about 4 FTF games I have run.
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Post by DMScotty on Jun 14, 2014 9:50:10 GMT
You can also just bend the tiles back into place. They may be creased on the underside but no one will see that anyway.
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Post by earlteagrey on Jun 14, 2014 15:00:53 GMT
After a tile is done and if it is warped, spray/mist the unpainted bottom with water and lay the tile face down on a counter/wet-safe surface. Than place some big books over the tile and leave overnight. It's worked well for some of my tiles!
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Post by runningwolf on Jun 14, 2014 15:07:00 GMT
I was going to suggest weighting it down, but people have already said that.
For me it seems like I usually only have the warping problem on larger pieces.
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teaman
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 165
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Post by teaman on Jun 14, 2014 17:56:28 GMT
Thanks for the other suggestions too, folks. This is a nice board.
It happens more with my big pieces than little pieces too.
I'll have to post some of my efforts. The terrain REALLY adds to any game.
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Post by runningwolf on Jun 14, 2014 18:31:37 GMT
Might want to experiment with the weights as they dry.
I was thinking of (but haven't tried it yet) running a few strips of cardboard (hot glued) on the bottom of larger pieces (against the grain of the corrugation).
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Post by runningwolf on Jun 15, 2014 15:34:57 GMT
I was also thinking, once again haven't tried it so no idea on how it will turn out..... I was thinking headed oven (that has been turned off), but with the glue that might not be a good idea.....
.... A hair dryer however might help evap some of the moisture quicker. Instead of having 10dl of liquid soaking into the cardboard the hair dryer might help evap the water quicker and have only 5 dl of liquid be in contact with the cardboard for a shorter amount of time. The hair dryer you have some heat but a box fan blowing on the piece might also help.
once again I haven't tried it, just throwing some ideas out.
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Post by kokigami on Jun 16, 2014 5:05:00 GMT
also paint smaller sections at a time..
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Post by thedmg on Jun 16, 2014 10:01:38 GMT
Double layer cardboard warps far less. As said above, I use kebab skewers to support the piece.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 16, 2014 11:04:33 GMT
I avoid using paint, and use soft paste glue sticks or hot glue for my adhesive needs (spray on adhesive would also work, but I would never use it inside the house, so.. nah).
Looking forward to seeing your efforts!
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teaman
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 165
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Post by teaman on Jun 16, 2014 15:57:29 GMT
also paint smaller sections at a time.. Good idea, especially for larger pieces. Or maybe I'll try much thinner coats.
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Post by DMScotty on Jun 16, 2014 16:20:40 GMT
All cardboard is not created equal. Some cardboard is much firmer than others.
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Post by thedmg on Jun 22, 2014 11:44:06 GMT
All cardboard is not created equal. Some cardboard is much firmer than others. Sacrilege! All cardboard is holy!
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Post by Sleepy Hollow Mike on Jun 23, 2014 5:35:35 GMT
You can also just bend the tiles back into place. They may be creased on the underside but no one will see that anyway. I think its an unwritten rule in terrain making: If your mistakes and miscues wont be seen then they didnt happen! Lol!
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Post by onethatwas on Jun 23, 2014 6:02:44 GMT
All cardboard is not created equal. Some cardboard is much firmer than others. Sacrilege! All cardboard is holy! It is indeed holey, brother DMG. Usually crosswise, so that one can see the holes made between the corrugation. However, what I imagine DM Scotty is implying, is that some cardboards have a much better corrugation, making them much better at remaining firm in the face of the evil temptation known as warping. The cardboard that resists this evil is known to be the Holeyest of cardboard, and is truly divine to craft with.
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Post by thedmg on Jun 23, 2014 7:05:10 GMT
The warping is caused by the shrinking of the top layer when moisture is applied. With double layer cardboard the lower layer acts to resist the force of the shrinkage of the top layer.
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