dmtucker
Tool Gatherer
Looking for adventure ideas.
Posts: 64
|
Post by dmtucker on May 28, 2014 20:27:40 GMT
So I'm gonna make a bunch of small hirst art pieces(using plaster of paris brand plaster) about 2 square inches for something and want to know either how to store them or how to overcoat them so my acrylic craft paint doesn't scratch off. I took 2 test pieces and rubbed them softly together and the paint comes off a bit. I want to know if I should either have a clear coat, or store them in something other than a bag. Last resort would be switch paint but I just want to know how to make it so the paint doesn't scratch off in storage. If you saw my previous post about a cool dungeon piece Idea from the dwarven forge kickstarter, I'm gonna make them with hirst arts molds and want to store then without scratching them, please help.
|
|
|
Post by indigo777 on May 28, 2014 22:08:45 GMT
Paint a layer of Acryllic Floor varnish like Pledge with Future shine over the dried craft paint. The bottle I use is called Pledge Floor Care Tile and Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine and on the back says Acrylic Protection, it runs 6 bucks at most stores for a huge 27 ounce bottle. That will make a durable clear protective coating over your paint.
To remove the shiny effect of the varnish finish off your pieces with a light spray from Testor's Dull Coat, it runs about $4.99 but can be gotten at Michael's and Hobby Lobby with 40% off coupons for $2.99 a can. This way you get 2 coats of protection, an insanely durable varnish and a good looking topcoat.
The future shine varnish will also let you know when its time to reapply the testor's dullcoat. If you play with the pieces a lot or store them where they rub together a lot eventually the thin dullcoat will wear down. You will see your piece become shiny as the dullcoat wears down and the varnish shows through. Just spray some new dullcoat when you see this.
If you still find that paint is chipping off with the clear coats on, your paint may not be binding to the surface as well as it should. To remedy this you can prime the piece with gesso canvas primer, get the kind that lists multiple materials on the back, most will say they work on Plaster/Concrete or Hard surfaces as well as canvas. The stuffs high but worth it. I recommend getting it at Michael's or Hobby lobby with the weekly 40% off coupon. The bottle I use is Pro Art brand Premium Gesso Canvas Primer 8 ounces for $8.99 ($5.52 with 40% coupon) it was the cheapest I could find and I've been very pleased with it.
|
|
dmtucker
Tool Gatherer
Looking for adventure ideas.
Posts: 64
|
Post by dmtucker on May 28, 2014 22:17:12 GMT
Paint a layer of Acryllic Floor varnish like Pledge with Future shine over the dried craft paint. The bottle I use is called Pledge Floor Care Tile and Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine and on the back says Acrylic Protection, it runs 6 bucks at most stores for a huge 27 ounce bottle. That will make a durable clear protective coating over your paint. To remove the shiny effect of the varnish finish off your pieces with a light spray from Testor's Dull Coat, it runs about $4.99 but can be gotten at Michael's and Hobby Lobby with 40% off coupons for $2.99 a can. This way you get 2 coats of protection, an insanely durable varnish and a good looking topcoat. The future shine varnish will also let you know when its time to reapply the testor's dullcoat. If you play with the pieces a lot or store them where they rub together a lot eventually the thin dullcoat will wear down. You will see your piece become shiny as the dullcoat wears down and the varnish shows through. Just spray some new dullcoat when you see this. If you still find that paint is chipping off with the clear coats on, your paint may not be binding to the surface as well as it should. To remedy this you can prime the piece with gesso canvas primer, get the kind that lists multiple materials on the back, most will say they work on Plaster/Concrete or Hard surfaces as well as canvas. The stuffs high but worth it. I recommend getting it at Michael's or Hobby lobby with the weekly 40% off coupon. The bottle I use is Pro Art brand Premium Gesso Canvas Primer 8 ounces for $8.99 ($5.52 with 40% coupon) it was the cheapest I could find and I've been very pleased with it. If the paint I use if craft smart and apple barrel acrylic paint, do I need primer or am I good? Also is there already a dull coat varnish, just curious?
|
|
|
Post by indigo777 on May 28, 2014 22:45:34 GMT
Paint a layer of Acryllic Floor varnish like Pledge with Future shine over the dried craft paint. The bottle I use is called Pledge Floor Care Tile and Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine and on the back says Acrylic Protection, it runs 6 bucks at most stores for a huge 27 ounce bottle. That will make a durable clear protective coating over your paint. To remove the shiny effect of the varnish finish off your pieces with a light spray from Testor's Dull Coat, it runs about $4.99 but can be gotten at Michael's and Hobby Lobby with 40% off coupons for $2.99 a can. This way you get 2 coats of protection, an insanely durable varnish and a good looking topcoat. The future shine varnish will also let you know when its time to reapply the testor's dullcoat. If you play with the pieces a lot or store them where they rub together a lot eventually the thin dullcoat will wear down. You will see your piece become shiny as the dullcoat wears down and the varnish shows through. Just spray some new dullcoat when you see this. If you still find that paint is chipping off with the clear coats on, your paint may not be binding to the surface as well as it should. To remedy this you can prime the piece with gesso canvas primer, get the kind that lists multiple materials on the back, most will say they work on Plaster/Concrete or Hard surfaces as well as canvas. The stuffs high but worth it. I recommend getting it at Michael's or Hobby lobby with the weekly 40% off coupon. The bottle I use is Pro Art brand Premium Gesso Canvas Primer 8 ounces for $8.99 ($5.52 with 40% coupon) it was the cheapest I could find and I've been very pleased with it. If the paint I use if craft smart and apple barrel acrylic paint, do I need primer or am I good? Also is there already a dull coat varnish, just curious? It varies on whether you need a primer or not depending on the material and paints. Some paints will adhere to some surfaces better than others. Craft Smart lists plaster as one of the materials it adheres too on the back but Apple Barrel just says asheres to all porous surfaces. Its best to test and see on a small piece before painting a lot of them. You most likely won't need primer but I listed Gesso in the event you do. Almost all dull coat varnishes are not very durable and scratch off easily exposing the paint so it can be scrathed off. So most painters will seal their miniatures/pieces with the tougher shiny varnishes to protect the paint and just spray the dull coat to remove the "wet look" of the shiny varnish. Pledge with Future shine is meant to hold up to people walking on it for months so it pretty durable stuff. There are various paint on and spray on varnishes and clear coats out there but I honestly don't know how good they are. I was recommended Pledge with Future Shine and the Testor's Dull coat combo on these boards months ago when I first started painting minis and miniature pieces and have loved the results so that's what I use.
|
|
|
Post by kokigami on May 29, 2014 2:22:37 GMT
primer may help with coating. Plaster is gonna suck up paint pretty well, so it may take multiple coats to achieve a look you could get with one application of primer and paint. But Plaster is always gonna be fragile, and you will find you will probably lose corners to chipping..
I have heard of people adding some cement to plaster to toughen it up.. I don't know much more..
|
|
dmtucker
Tool Gatherer
Looking for adventure ideas.
Posts: 64
|
Post by dmtucker on May 31, 2014 2:27:00 GMT
primer may help with coating. Plaster is gonna suck up paint pretty well, so it may take multiple coats to achieve a look you could get with one application of primer and paint. But Plaster is always gonna be fragile, and you will find you will probably lose corners to chipping.. I have heard of people adding some cement to plaster to toughen it up.. I don't know much more.. I think I'll try both of your ideas ot text pieces then roll them around and stuff. Another question though. I have 2 molds: 45 and 70. (I'm a kid so I don't have a lot of money) I was wondering for a way to use these molds without the floor molds, what pieces should I use for the flooring?
|
|
|
Post by kokigami on Jun 1, 2014 4:47:18 GMT
you can build directly on a substrata like cardboard (mildly problematic because of weight), Foam Core ( a step up.. but perhaps too thin..), or, my suggestion would be pink foam insulation (or blue foam... seems a regional thing.. we don't see much blue up hear.. ) I have a plaster space station set I bought from a guy online. I kinda regret buying it, because it took a lot of damage in transit..they can be seen here, just after unpacking.. or a quick pic even if you had flooring, you would probably need a layer below it to support the joints. Though, it may depend on how thorough you are with your glue.
|
|
|
Post by emyerson on Jun 18, 2014 15:12:07 GMT
I know this is a little late to the conversation, but you might want to consider ditching the plaster of paris and switching to something like this: plaster.com/SuperX.htmlIt's pricier, for sure, and I know that as a kid money can be tight. But if you can manage it, see if you can get your hands on some. It's MUCH more durable than plaster of paris, and will take away any concerns about corners chipping off your pieces.
|
|
|
Post by onethatwas on Jun 18, 2014 16:54:22 GMT
Hydrostone, I hear, is also a good sub for Plaster of Paris. May be cheaper too (especially if it's true PoP, and not just a plaster company calling it that. There is a difference, the biggest one being price). Hydrostone, from what I understand, is pretty durable and doesn't chip as easily as plaster does. Edit: Emyerson beat me to it
|
|
|
Post by skunkape on Jun 18, 2014 20:21:02 GMT
emyerson and onethatwas have it right. Plaster of paris is much weaker and will break more easily. Also, it takes longer to dry than a Hydrostone does. On the flip side, it does tend to be substanially less expensive, but I'd rather pay more money and not have to worry as much about pieces breaking!
|
|