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Post by reddevil on Sept 25, 2017 21:15:50 GMT
what brand of primer works best? Do I need to buy a miniature brand primer or do primers you buy at home depot work just as well?
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Sept 25, 2017 23:40:31 GMT
what brand of primer works best? Do I need to buy a miniature brand primer or do primers you buy at home depot work just as well? Assuming you mean spray primers? They are about equal, I have noticed that the army painter ones dry quite a lot faster that generic hard ware ones. At least round these parts the price difference is negligible, so I personally went with the faster drying ones that comes in more colours
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Post by reddevil on Sept 26, 2017 0:39:47 GMT
Yes I do in fact mean spray primers. Didn't even know there was paint on primers till i searched amazon. I haven't done much painting of minis in years, just got back into wanting to do it again.
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on Sept 26, 2017 3:12:01 GMT
Yes I do in fact mean spray primers. Didn't even know there was paint on primers till i searched amazon. I haven't done much painting of minis in years, just got back into wanting to do it again. You tend to do better just going to the hardware store for spray primers. There's a lot of other things that can create issue with them in shipping that can be a menace.
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Sept 26, 2017 6:45:14 GMT
About the drying times; My Army painter primers are dry enough for another primer coat when I do zenital highlighting or to paint after about 30 minutes where as the cheapest can in the hardware store takes more than 4 hours ( not sure how many as I usually spray them in the evening - they are dry the next morning but not when I head off to bed ) The last factor is the smell - even after fully drying the hardware store primer I got reeks for a very long time ( days ) the army painter primer isn't odorless either but I need a very large concentration of minis to notice. This may not bother you as much as me, I've been told my nose is over sensitive just though I'd mention it I'm not sure what menace sotf referes to with shipping primers, there no wellstocked hobby stores near where I live so I have all my primers and paint shipped - not had a problem so far
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Post by reddevil on Sept 26, 2017 13:57:29 GMT
Thanks guys for your help. I'm going to pick up some army paint primer to start.
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Post by SpielMeisterKev! on Sept 26, 2017 16:20:48 GMT
Howdy,
Don't spray the bones
Kev!
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Sept 26, 2017 16:26:39 GMT
Howdy, Don't spray the bones Kev! Having sprayed all mine I have to wonder; why?
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on Sept 27, 2017 4:31:28 GMT
Howdy, Don't spray the bones Kev! Having sprayed all mine I have to wonder; why? With most sprays, they end up very tacky and the paint doesn't ever, fully cure.
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Sept 27, 2017 6:05:10 GMT
Having sprayed all mine I have to wonder; why? With most sprays, they end up very tacky and the paint doesn't ever, fully cure. I scrub mine in soap water with old tooth brush (important to get rid of the copious amount of mold release on them) and then spray them when they are fully dry. Now granted I've only tried one "hardware store brand" ( due to the stink ) but neither that nor the bones had this problem. But then there are also people who have problems with the matt spray varnish ( getting milky white coat / splotches ) - but even under the worst conditions I've never managed to get that. I even deliberately tried at one point because I couldn't find any photos of it - sprayed a wall from pretty much point blank with a coat so thick it started running, even that didn't produce the defects. It may be down to climate - I hear alot of people saying they can't use rattlecans due to the weather being too hot/cold or humid so ymmv - always spray a test piece
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on Sept 27, 2017 21:15:54 GMT
With most sprays, they end up very tacky and the paint doesn't ever, fully cure. I scrub mine in soap water with old tooth brush (important to get rid of the copious amount of mold release on them) and then spray them when they are fully dry. Now granted I've only tried one "hardware store brand" ( due to the stink ) but neither that nor the bones had this problem. But then there are also people who have problems with the matt spray varnish ( getting milky white coat / splotches ) - but even under the worst conditions I've never managed to get that. I even deliberately tried at one point because I couldn't find any photos of it - sprayed a wall from pretty much point blank with a coat so thick it started running, even that didn't produce the defects. It may be down to climate - I hear alot of people saying they can't use rattlecans due to the weather being too hot/cold or humid so ymmv - always spray a test piece With most of the primers, the issue is less of it being that and more of a chemical issue with what they use on them to function, essentially, as a primer. Some of the more expensive ones can work, but tend to be a lot more expensive.
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Sept 28, 2017 6:43:29 GMT
I scrub mine in soap water with old tooth brush (important to get rid of the copious amount of mold release on them) and then spray them when they are fully dry. Now granted I've only tried one "hardware store brand" ( due to the stink ) but neither that nor the bones had this problem. But then there are also people who have problems with the matt spray varnish ( getting milky white coat / splotches ) - but even under the worst conditions I've never managed to get that. I even deliberately tried at one point because I couldn't find any photos of it - sprayed a wall from pretty much point blank with a coat so thick it started running, even that didn't produce the defects. It may be down to climate - I hear alot of people saying they can't use rattlecans due to the weather being too hot/cold or humid so ymmv - always spray a test piece With most of the primers, the issue is less of it being that and more of a chemical issue with what they use on them to function, essentially, as a primer. Some of the more expensive ones can work, but tend to be a lot more expensive. hmm.. Like I said round these parts hardwarestore primers tend to cost the same as the miniature ones ( the equivalent of ~10$ ) Might be an issue of some dirt cheap american primers using ingredients banned in the EU, would explain why I've not encountered the problem
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Post by skunkape on Sept 28, 2017 13:34:32 GMT
I've sprayed Bones before with Rust-oleum and not had a problem. Cleaning the minis first is also a must. I also try to use several light coats instead of one coat to cover the minis, holding the can at least 6 to 8 inches away from the mini. Sure I tend to use more paint that way, wasted over-spray, but I don't get the tacky finish. I've also been modeling for 40 some odd years.
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