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Post by mrsfizzes on Sept 1, 2017 15:50:11 GMT
I apologize if this has already been asked. I tried to look up if a thread like this had already been made, but I am on my phone and only got a lot of threads talking about completing a craft with an airbrush.
I'm making a list of things I'd like to get over time as I'm getting more and more into this craft, and after getting my proxxom hot wire cutting table, I'll likely be getting a dremel as my next big purchase, and then an airbrush.
I do have a tendency to figure things out rather quickly when it comes to craft related things, so despite not having used one before, I'm not looking for a beginner model. Intermediate at least!
I'd love any good airbrush suggestions, as well as good compressors, and any information you guys may have on spray booths would be great. I have a whole room dedicated to crafting (with a giant, incredibly sturdy sewing machine table) which has a niiiice big window which provides excellent lighting and a great place to let fumes escape.
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Sept 1, 2017 18:18:48 GMT
Air brushing does not produce fumes, no more than blowing on your minis do at any rate. The hood is just to catch overspray - which should be fairly minimal to begin with. NB. I do t own an air brush, I'm am however researching them because I think I may want to get one
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Post by mrsfizzes on Sept 1, 2017 18:28:07 GMT
Gonna be honest: I don't have any idea why I said 'fumes' in my last post. I think I was thinking about the 3D printer I want to get eventually, or something? I may be a bit excited. XD
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Post by margaret on Sept 2, 2017 4:05:54 GMT
Some folks still use non-water solvent-based paints for airbrushing and need to vent the gaseous solvent fumes as well as suck the paint particles that mist into the air onto a filter.
There are tons of suggestions for spray booths, both commercial and DIY on the internet, and many discussion threads on the pros and cons. I looked into it briefly at one point and decided it was simpler to stay away from airbrushing.
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Post by Wyloch on Sept 2, 2017 11:44:43 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Sept 3, 2017 14:49:59 GMT
I started with the same thing. It's a great product and has lasted me several years so far. I guess really it depends on what you're going to use it for. This one is good for basing minis, but you can get a lot of mileage using it for your terrain and buildings and such. if you find you're in need of something for finer detail, then I would consider an upgrade, but honestly I use this one way more than my badger.
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Post by adamantinedragon on Sept 4, 2017 0:11:49 GMT
Add me to the list that started with this, or something nearly identical. Been using it for about four years now.
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guppy
Paint Manipulator
Posts: 202
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Post by guppy on Sept 4, 2017 8:35:53 GMT
'round these parts the cheapest you can get an airbrush with a tank is the equivalent of ~250 USD an then it's all parts are chinese no name parts. ~70$ will get you a setup with a tankless ala this; think I may just stick to rattle cans for my priming needs and revisit the idea if and when winter comes.
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Post by willc453 on Sept 16, 2017 23:04:21 GMT
Started building models back in '74 when I came back to the states and first airbrush I bought was the Paasche H single action. Don't remember the air compressor brand, but it went bad on me about 20 years later, so I bought a Sears brand and it still works fine. The compressor also has a knob to adjust the air pressure, from 0 to 100 psi. The majority of time, mine's been set at 12-15. And 2 years ago, bought a Paasche double action which I haven't used and takes a bit more skill to use. The single actions (Ebay) run from $19 on upwards. Do NOT buy the one with the all red, plastic handle. Get the one with metal body & red handle. Also check Harbor Freights modeling compressor reviews. As to Dremel, got Sears version of this 30 or so years ago. Had the cord go bad on me, but replaced it with no problem. The only reason I suggest in buying a brand name vs a Chinese no name brand is what are you going to do if you need parts?
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Post by Wyloch on Sept 18, 2017 12:51:13 GMT
I will say I just upgraded from that cheap Master kit to an Iwata Eclipse. The difference is significant. Huge.
I do not regret starting with the cheap Master one though. Now I have two: the old beater for doing large area basecoats, and the Iwata for doing fine gradients and detail work. Plus I can run two colors at a time.
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