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Post by jennifer on Mar 22, 2016 9:28:49 GMT
This is a very nice printer you're getting Teazia! Just watched a video of one printing. Found out it is a RepRap Rostock design -- all OpenSource/GPL. You can print some very tall items with that printer
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Post by teazia on Mar 22, 2016 10:05:32 GMT
I plan to print dungeon tiles and minis and such, but who knows what the future holds?
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Post by jennifer on Mar 25, 2016 14:30:19 GMT
I plan to print dungeon tiles and minis and such, but who knows what the future holds? Nice printer you got there!!! I like that it's a glass plate, do you spray with unscented hair spray? That's what I use on glass and it's great! Is the glass bed heated? don't see elements under it is why I ask.
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Post by teazia on Mar 25, 2016 17:00:15 GMT
After a few failures, I watched some vida and.did some more calibration. So far so good! PLA with no heated bed. I used glue stick, let's hope it works! Time for bed. The embiggended base will be mine in the morn! Cheers.
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Post by teazia on Mar 25, 2016 17:02:46 GMT
A plotter plus a real small gluegun. Amazing.
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Post by jennifer on Mar 25, 2016 17:09:43 GMT
Unscented hair spray works wonderfully btw. Amazing adhesion. Just spray a couple coats on the glass (first clean glass with isopropyl alcohol to remove any residues/oils). Then give it a quick spray every few prints, and only in areas that were printed on. After a while you can strip it all off with alchohol and reapply if you wish. say after a month of use. You have to wait for hairspray to dry before using. Takes like 15 mins with heated bed. Or maybe wait 30-45 mins if no heat. It dries to where it doesn't feel tacky really. But you only want to apply hairspray after removing glass from printer.. mine is a plate of glass that just sits on top of the regular build plate.. I spray over the kitchen sink. Don't know if this is reasonable to remove glass from your printer or if it would then make it unlevel when you put it back on. Maybe the glue stick will work great for you let me know If glass can't easily be removed and quickly put back level, then hairspray would kind of be a pain I think.
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Post by teazia on Mar 27, 2016 5:34:56 GMT
I am having some issues with calibrating the height. It seems there is not a level sensor for the z axis, so you need to manual program that. Unforutanety all the manuals and vids are in Chinese. Fortunately I can understand Chinese.
Some print have turned our well, but a most have gone wonky. I hope to have everything calibrated this evening a get things going!
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Post by jennifer on Mar 27, 2016 5:40:30 GMT
If you haven't done so already, join the RepRap group on Thingiverse. If you have any problems you can post there and many there are very nice and can help you out. Many that have the same type of Rostock style printer you have. Rostock is a RepRap printer (well almost every printer is ultimately). There are also the RepRap forums, which is even more active and probably best place to go. Reprap main web site: reprap.org/
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Post by jennifer on Mar 27, 2016 5:58:59 GMT
Also, check out this Rostock printer on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:17175You can ask questions there in the comments section and also check out those who have made them and then ask question in comments on their make. (There are over 53 makes of the Rostock on that page -- so 53 people right there which you can ask questions about your printer). I already asked a question there earlier today because I was considering building one because they look affordable to build. They are because the guy replied and said it only cost him like $230 for everything - but that requires a 3d printer to print the parts. Anyways my point really is that they are kind enough to reply and I am sure they could help you with your problem.
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Post by teazia on Mar 29, 2016 1:47:52 GMT
I have been tuning the machine as it got knocked out of alignment by the time I received it, plus I started with 0 knowledge so it has been a learning experience. Best results so far have been gotten at 210 degrees with lots of glue on the plate. I was also over printing everything at 20% infill with thick top, bottom and walls which may have contributed to the warping issues I have had. More testing!
I am also considering putting either silicone pads or rubber pads under the machine. It is on a stone tabletop, and there are some strong forces produced by the machine. I think some shock absorption might be helpful. Plus it should cut down on the noise the machine makes. Noisy!
Cheers
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Post by teazia on Mar 29, 2016 14:57:46 GMT
Not trying to print so the tiles are lighter, 0.8 walls and bottom/top while printing in 0.4 layers. Save time and filament! It may be great, or...
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