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Post by tauster on Apr 5, 2017 4:27:16 GMT
the white is popcorn foam (expanded). the pink doesn't have an internal structure, i.e. it's the traditional pink foam.
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Post by Wyloch on Apr 5, 2017 16:19:10 GMT
Yeah the 'tone is very strong in general, but against that white stuff it will BLITZ through. I don't apply much. After dipping the brush, I bleed a lot of the excess fluid out before brushing. It goes a long way.
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Post by Wyloch on Apr 12, 2017 19:43:12 GMT
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on Apr 12, 2017 20:11:18 GMT
Would probably work better to base the cubes separate from the obelisk. Less risk of them getting banged around and ripping out of it and you can do so much more with it for use in games.
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Post by tauster on Apr 12, 2017 20:32:56 GMT
Simply love that obelisk's separated/levitating design, and those flying cubes are like the icing on the cake! I'll probably try to replicate that piece soon-ish, it would go well with the necron-like stuff I made earlier. Like sotf, I wouldn't attach the cubes permanently. I'd rather use neodyms on the end of the cubes' tentacles and clue some flat metal bits on the monolith (trying to camouflage them as good as possible under the paint). That way I could use the cubes in other situations without the center monolith. Or place them on different locations on the centerpiece. Btw: With every new tutorial my resistance against buying an airbrush erodes another tiny bit... And I'll finally have to fire up that proxxon saw. I have the same model somewhere in a box in the workshop but never got around to put it in operation...
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Post by misterc on Apr 13, 2017 7:15:57 GMT
Another great vid. Especially as I have just bought a Proxxon. Any guidance on how to use it would be welcome.
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Post by Wyloch on Apr 27, 2017 14:50:50 GMT
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Post by Wyloch on May 20, 2017 3:22:19 GMT
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on May 20, 2017 11:40:13 GMT
One major thing with magnetized tiles of any kind is that you really need to seal them a lot more heavily than normal ones. The areas around the magnets get a whole lot more wear and tear than with a normal tile, both in wearing out the materials attaching the magnets and in whatever paint job you want to use over them. On top of that with the paint, most magnets tend not to be that good at holding paint in the first place and it's more of the paint bonding to paint, which means that if it cracks, the paint starts peeling and creates a mess.
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Post by Wyloch on May 21, 2017 5:51:03 GMT
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on May 21, 2017 17:01:07 GMT
Something like Song of Blades & Heroes is another great starting wargame, while the Advanced version (Which is really just their 3rd edition) breaks away and adds a supposed setting to it, but with their unit designer, any minis you have can be worked out for rules. It also has several things that make things rather more easily than a lot of other games...plus there is the Tales of Blades & Heroes that uses the same basic system for an RPG and is also rather good if I could actually get my players to move beyond some of the more basic D20 rulesets without constant complaints. Sure, the ruleset might be a bit more than a page, but it isn't that big of one and the Avanced rules are extremely easy to pickup...
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Post by Wyloch on May 24, 2017 14:40:45 GMT
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sotf
Advice Guru
Posts: 1,084
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Post by sotf on May 24, 2017 23:12:08 GMT
One thing that I would suggest as a better option than hot glue for sealing the thing is silicone caulk. Hot glue tends to degrade when used in water relatively quickly.Air dry clay also tends to have some nasty issues if you don't heavily seal it since it tends to be rather porous and ending up with mould issues tends to be something that never ends well.
If you want to quiet the motor, one thing that you can do in order to deaden the sound is to get some fiber or foam filler, that can fill up the remainder of the pump bay.
Chipboard is also something that I wouldn't use for a base for this, it works for a lot of things, but with water, you're asking for a disaster. If it gets scratched to from the top or, potentially, if you need to move it quickly, you're going to heavily risk the base collapsing beneath it. The end result is not a good one there.
If you want to make one of these, a major thing to consider in order to make one look better is to take each of the stacks and glue them together separately from the base and carve the exteriors of them together, they'll look more like real rock features.
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Post by Wyloch on May 31, 2017 12:49:04 GMT
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Post by Wyloch on Jun 13, 2017 12:52:39 GMT
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Post by Wyloch on Jul 14, 2017 22:19:08 GMT
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Post by tauster on Jul 15, 2017 11:35:05 GMT
Absolutely love the simplified tiles!
I didn't make the first version of your tiles, for exactly the reason you said in the video - too time consuming, too many steps. That you knocked the simple ones out in about 30 mins is crazy impressive, leaving me with no excuse left not making a tile set myself. ...except that I don't really need more dungeon tiles than the ones I already have.
One question: Is there a reason you cut out the small squares before painting them up individually? I'd rather paint the whole board first and then cut it to pieces, which would save you a lot of time I imagine...
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Post by Sam on Jul 15, 2017 12:39:53 GMT
I like the simplified tiles too. A quick easy way to cover the corrugations is masking tape.
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Post by Wyloch on Jul 15, 2017 13:43:12 GMT
I cut the squares before painting so that their exposed edges get painted black. Otherwise they are brown and it really sticks out.
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Post by Wyloch on Jul 26, 2017 2:34:51 GMT
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